Ok so my MAF has **** itself from what I can tell, and cannot seem to find any apart from in Russia online.
This has me thinking, can another MAF be used and scale it correctly in ECUFlash?
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Ok so my MAF has **** itself from what I can tell, and cannot seem to find any apart from in Russia online.
This has me thinking, can another MAF be used and scale it correctly in ECUFlash?
I've not heard of that.
Standalone or piggyback ecu with map has been done.
Oh I have no idea if it can be done, was just thinking out aloud.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Mann
Anyone have a link to a MAF thats available for sale to suit the VR4?
If I remember correctly na maf have less built in and less cables in the plug.Quote:
Originally Posted by FTunedAU
I do have tried and tested maf for sale but postage costs could be a bit expensive.
I may have one sourced locally just tonight, but have a think of a price and I'd have no issue purchasing from OS if neededQuote:
Originally Posted by adaxo
Ok, looking for some collective ideas on what to check now as the replacement MAF made no difference and the car still hesitates and stumbles. Disconnect the MAF and it drives fine
Yoy maybe get another faulty unit? Any chance to borrow maf from other member that is proven to work?Quote:
Originally Posted by FTunedAU
That certainly is a possibility, but was allegedly a very recently refurbished and tested MAF from a reputable local workshop
personally would not trust any MAF unless i have seen them working or i trust the supplier implicitly.
you could check the 5V feed to the sensors and a the sensor gnd on the multi plug going to the MAF and jiggle the wires whilst doing it.
to check the sensor ground connect a dvm from the battery neg to the ground pin in the plug there should be no more than about 100mV across them.
Im in the process of moving house so I need to find my multimeter, but having a half dead car during the process is a bit of a pain.
There maybe a little more to my situation im thinking, as I have a significant voltage drain on my battery at the moment.
Stay with me here, but my thought process on this is that after swapping the MAF over and problems still persisting, something that the MAF/ECU relies on for a reading is not giving correct data and/or is causing the voltage drain.
How this all came to happen, was about a month or so ago, I was reversing out of my friends driveway, and my car sits really low and is raked so the front sits much lower that the rear, and I caught on the concrete driveway my FMIC and also front bar. I tore a slight hole in the silicon pipework and pretty much half the front bar got ripped off at the same time. With the silicon, the car would drive fine under light throttle but when coming onto boost the tear would open up and the car would start missing - hesitating which made sense to me due to boost leak/fuelling issues. At the time driving home all of this was theoretical - it was -2˚C and 2am at the time. The hesitation got slightly worse on the drive home over about 20 mins.
Anyway next day get under the car - semi re-attach the front bar, found the tear in the silicon and replaced both entry and exit to the intercooler and figured everything was ok. Went to go out that night, got about 1km down the road until the hesitation came back -first slight uphill section of road. Stopped the car, tried to see what was going on on the side of the road, cursed and swore lots as i couldnt see anything. started the car back up and slowly and not graciously got the car home. After discussions with a couple people, unplugged the MAF and test drove and it was fine .. etc etc new MAF same problems and here we are today.
Now to my question - at the front right of the car/engine bay is there any sensors up there, or wiring loom semi exposed that may have gotten damaged when I reefed half out the front bumper, intercooler/pipework on my friends driveway?
Are you sure the intercooler is okay? Another leak would give the same symptoms you are describing. Can you do or have you done a leak test?
Pressure test was done initially when locating and fixing the silicon, no indication that the intercooler was damaged at all.
Happy to revisit if needed of course, but would that still run fine (or as fine as can be) with MAF disconnected? I suppose the voltage drain could be totally unrelated?
Yeah, if you have a leak post maf then the maf reding is wrong, fuelling is wrong and it runs like a bag of spanners. Lean on idle but rich on throttle. A bad leam and the car over fuels to the point of stalling on throttle.
Unplugging the maf puts the car in generic get you home default fuel map so it doesn't matter if the air is bypassing the maf or not.
Therefore a reasonable air leak gives the same symptoms you are describing, and unplugging the maf appears to have fixed the problem, whereas you have actually compensated for the problem.
I'm not saying you definitely have a leak, but I would be checking that well first, it's the most likely issue and the easiest fix.
Thanks Nick, I will check that again very soon