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Hello, I need to replace my ABS/TCL computer. And well after struggling and swearing for the past couple of hours it's not coming out. So how do I go about removing it? I'm dreading that the answer will be to remove the whole dash or the A/C unit. See pic related, it's to the left of the glove box it's in a tight spot. I have a 1998 Type S Legnum.
Any help would be appreciated, thank you.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrMann
it is a pain in the back side to get it out but it will come out.
i took mine out a few months ago i ended up taking all the wire harness clips and clamps off the loom to be able to move the look out the way to make it easier to remove the ABS ecu.
I got it out, replced it and sadly it did not solve my issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by Davezj
TCL, ABS and ASC (Swervy Car?) lights are flashing, so I can't get a WOF.
Yes I could take the bulbs out, no I don't want too. 1998 Type V I want all the bells and whistles working, so any tips on were to start?
I have my EVOScan cable and software I opted for a OpenPort 1.3U. I'll update the post once I have the Diagnostic Trouble Codes.
Also I have a red and black interior is that special or is that standard for the Type V?
Also I suspect a boost leak aswell...
Have you done the simple "flashy dash" test to get a list of fault codes?
If any of those lights don't show during the key on self test, that's an instant WOF fail at any reputable testing station here (Not Dodgy Garage Ltd) so lamp removal is not the way to go. The flashy dash should give you the answers to what's really going on.
Have you checked the vacuum canister on the firewall, the two solenoid valves and the vacuum hoses associated with them? I think a fault there can cause those lights to come on. The hoses and the canister can develop splits and leak, or the solenoid valves can develop an open circuit coil or bad contact at the connectors.
I tried EvoScan, with the 1.3U OpenPort Cable. But it wouldn't connect to my ECU so it couldnt pull the DTCs. The Cable shows up in device manager and all that and I installed the drives for it aswell. OZ VR4 is down at the moment so I can't trawl the threads over there for solutions.
Flashy Dashy showed me the Swervy Car error code 52. With the Check Engine, TCL Off and AYC flashing.
So a power supply issue.
I do plan on doing a few runs with evoscan logging my sensors, but I need a new battery for my laptop (which is on it's way).
The ABS/TCL lights are only half my problems...
You see as of right now, I put my foot down the acceleration freaks out, drive like a grandma it occurs but isn't as bad happens right around 3000-4000rpm.. I should most probably start another thread, but for now I'll link the video. Previous owner had a secondhand transmission put in this acceleration issue cropped up awhile later.
It's been at the garage for both issues and they couldn't figure it out ($550 later) they found one wire with an issue and reccommend I send the control unit away. I'd like to exhaust other avenues before I do that. I can provide the wiring diagram.
I feel like I'm in over my head, but my long time old mate has a hoist and is a mechanic he's just as excited as I am for this project, so any links, or tips would be greatly appreciated.
But I'm bloody determined, this is all a learning experience for me.
I attached an image, I presume the TCL canister is in white finding information in the service manual about the ABS, ASC and TCL is quite hard.
The second is going into the top of the throttle body it's missing something but that looks factory.
You do NOT need EvoScan to pull fault codes, simply a short length of wire.
Until you've done the "flashy dash" and got a list of known fault codes, you're basically wasting your time trying to diagnose anything.
Tbf, he did also say he did flashy dash and got skiddy car 52 (although called it swervy car, which I really like!) :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Confused
Yes it is the white thing I was referring to along with the two solenoid valves just to the left of it and the hoses. I think that 52 code does relate to one of the solenoid valves from memory; I did have one fail open circuit once.
I must have missed that, sorry. Was that really the only fault code you got? I'd expect a fault 72 on the engine light too along with that code...
Nice name!
Evoscan is not reliable with DTCs. Flashy Dash is the only reliable method IMO unless you have access to very expensive Mitsubishi MUT equipment.
Your acceleration issue in the mid range, is it like you have lifted completely off and back on to the accelerator pedal? The whole car jerks quite violently. If so, this is likely to be fuel cut, which is either too much boost or a boost leak. In any event it is caused by the MAF seeing more air than it thinks it can supply fuel for, so rather than run lean it cuts the fuel completely. It is possible that an air leak is the source of both the TCL and acceleration issues.
Red and black cloth is standard on 1st facelift cars, made between Oct '98 and May 2000.
Well, it turned out to be a corroded wire. The second garage I took it too diagnosed it in under an hour. I spent $600NZD on a new ABS/TCL ECU that most probably didn't fix anything. Oopsie Daisy.
Sadly he couldn't figure out my acceleration problem. Which sucks big time. He replaced my fuel pump and fuel filter as I wasn't getting any fuel on the return line. And that didn't do anything. Replaced the MAF... that didn't do anything. Banging my head against the wall a bit, that's 2 garages in a row that don't have a clue. But that's fine had a play with EVO Scan and got some numbers logged. But EvoScan how-to info is few and far between so I'll figure that out long term. To answer my original question yes it is removable it's sure as **** in there pretty tight but it can be removed. I think I'll start a new thread regarding my other issues.
Happy to hear the ABS/TCL issue is fixed, although a shame you ended up spending a lot of money and time that was not necessary.
If there's no fuel coming through the return line, then that means that either 1) all of it is consumed by the injectors, 2) your fuel pressure regulator is not working correctly, or 3) a blockage in the fuel return line.
Did he come up with the lack of return before or after he changed the pump & filter?
Without the Fuel Pressure Regulator working correctly, there will be an unknown fuel pressure within the fuel rail, so when the injectors are commanded to open, the amount of fuel that flows through it will not be consistent or correct. This could result in less fuel than required - lean - and lack of power. More fuel = richer - lack of power, or a misfire.
My first check would be to disconnect the return line from the fuel pressure regulator, and see if any fuel is being output from here. My guess is that you'll find no fuel being passed through the stock regulator. You can do this by just pointing the outlet into a bucket and switching the ignition on - it should prime for a few seconds to build up fuel pressure and you should find some spat out.
If so, then source a new, aftermarket, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and set it to 43.5psi or 3 bar with engine running and vacuum reference line disconnected/blocked.
If you need assistance with interpreting the EvoScan logs, then feel free to post them up too :)
be aware that without the return fuel (assuming stock tank setup) the lift/siphon pump wont work, so you will have significantly less than 60L total capacity (and maybe old sludge at bottom of the other side of hump)