Hi all. Any idea how much an engine rebuild costs
Printable View
Hi all. Any idea how much an engine rebuild costs
That totally depends on whats currently wrong with it.
:happy:
Garage reckons one of the cylinders is leaking oil. Had it three years now and it didn't want for anything. I'm absolutely gutted if I have to lose it
Depends what the actual issue is and if you are handy with spanners or not. Could just be the piston rings that are worn. If there is no actual damage to the cylinder wall and the pistons themselves etc then you could just get away with replacing the rings. However I would get it stripped and sent to a machine shop to be sure. While you're there it would be rude not to do some head work and replace stock parts with upgrades such as head bolts, pistons etc etc.
But yeah depends on who is doing the work and what is actually at fault.
It would be nice to know more details if you can get any. What did they find, how did they find it. I've never heard of an engine leaking oil in one cylinder, so it is either a rare issue or something else is wrong.
Basically it's got a misfire that developed over the past month. It seems that it kicks in at a certain temperature, which makes me question the leak theory but then I'm no expert. It runs fine first thing in the morning when temperature is cooler for around 10 miles then the misfire kicks in. At first I thought it was a problem with the lpg so I took it to gastech in Warrington and they diagnosed 4 faulty injectors so I asked them to replace the six. It ran fine for a day then it was back. Whilst going up the m6 I manually switched it from lpg to petrol and the misfire was still there, then it would not switch back to lpg until I restarted the car. Now I'm thinking it might bee the lpg solenoid but I had this replaced 9 months ago. Booked back at gastech and they rang me a couple of hours later telling me it's down to one of the cylinders leaking oil. They had it idling on petrol and after 5 minutes or so the misfiring kicked in. Put the revs up to 3k and it clears with a puff of blue smoke then it's back again. Thats how they came to that decision
I'd be thinking coil packs, plugs and leads first. Can they do a boost leak test?
I'd be suspicious that the puff of smoke is a worn turbo seal, exposed when idling for a while and then revving. I personally think it is far more likely that the misfire and the puff of smoke are unrelated but revving has an effect on both.
I'll have to find someone who can look into that for me but haven't been able to find anyone in my area. I'm trying to find a runabout this weekend so I can take it off the road to investigate. As it happens I'm away next week so I'll try and leave it with the guy who did the major service for me see what he can find.
BTW I can access the forum on my phone but not the laptop.?
Feel a bit better now I managed to book it in with the garage for next week whilst I m away I'll keep you posted with the findings
I have an update. Replaced ht leads and middle coil pack it ticked over for ages without a miss then hiccuped for a few seconds engine management light on then off again and ran ok.
Garage is saying there is a hairline cracking in cylinder head gasket on number 5 cylinder. Drove to work this morning ran perfect 40 miles on motorway, stopped at traffic lights again hiccuped for 10 seconds then went alright again. So I'm looking at replacing head gasket but garage is too busy at the moment.I live in Stoke and work in leigh anyone on here who can help me out with this?
If a head gasket has gone.... its gone! you dont have good days and bad days. sounds like you need to be doing some more diagnosis on those plugs, leads and coil packs before ripping the engine apart. Because then it does start to get expensive.
Dave O
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Thanks dave I've decided to get a second car for work and get more diagnostics done. I'm thinking it's more electrical due to the fact that the problem occurs when engine gets hot
I've just done a complete engine rebuild on mine over the last 12 months and the mechanical repairs have to be meticulous as if you miss something in the repair its very time consuming and costly to strip it again.
But it done and running again but still needs a few bits yet.
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Check the MAF. Sounds like it could be the beginning of the fault I did a how to fix write-up about for another member. Just a thought.
I'm just having a re-think about your engine misfire problems.
Diagnosis this way is probably one of the hardest to do. I personally don't think it's MAF sensor related, well...not from your discribed fault as this would affect all... not just 1 cylinder and i would expect the misfire to occur higher up the rev range under load and not at idle.(unless your misfire details are not really fully explained?)
If this was a problem i was having with mine i would check:
*To rule out your garages suspected cracked head/gasket synario carry out a 'Block Test' (blue liquid test) and see if tjere are traces of exhaust gasses in the cooling system.
* Try to correctly identify the cylinder in question if just on one?
* Do you have rattling tappets? if so maybe do a compression test see if could be valve related due to worn tappets or low oil pressure
* Battery voltage and alternator charge rate. as a low battery on start up can cause flooding of the cylinders.
fully charged battery 12.40 volts, charging correctly 14.40 or there abouts.
* Plugs and leads, as you have done
* Coil packs (as you have done but only one)and electrical connections inc power supply (This is important to check as the ignition and fuel injector looms become very brittle as the vehicle ages and can crack causing the copper wire inside to fatigue and break)
* Fuel injectors for good connections, power supplies same as ignition curcuits
* Fuel presssure test
* Fuel injectors for correct resistances
* Fuel injectors for partially blocked micro filters (which can affect delivery and spray patterns) resulting in fouling of the plugs
* Ignition failure module can also be at fault on the front cam cover
* I can also advise you to check the cylinder head wiring loom over the gearbox where it goes through a metal bracket as engine movements over the years can cause ignition, injection, cam & crank sensor wiring to rub through and short out to earth through the gearbox.
* Last but not least ECU (but highly unlikely)
I know this because ive diagnosed it on others in the past.
Check all this and im sure you will find your fault.
There are probably more things to check but based on what you discribed check these first.
Dave O
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Thanks for the info dave unfortunately I'm at the mercy of what garage I take it to, although I'm quite handy with tools and dabbled with cars in the past albeit it was a different era, nowadays I don't have a garage to work in so I'm solely reliant on someone else. Getting another car will give me breathing space till I get this sorted. I'll be happier if I find someone who's willing to take it on as upto now I feel a reluctance from garages
I'm in Stoke but work in leigh
Yeah just off the east lancs
Yeah just off the east lancs
Small world
That would be great will make a change with someone who know what these cars are all about
Ok I finally got my car back from mot garage, it only took 2 months, ha.
I carried out the flashy dash diagnosis and came up with the following faults.
Engine: 41
And a non listed code as in 1 long flash followed by 10 short ones. I believe this is a misfire in no.1 cylinder.
Abs: 12, 13,14,15 and 16.
AYC: 12,41and 82
All I need now is to find a garage who can do this work for me, any recommendations welcome.
What kind of cost am I looking at to get this done?
Hey Salvo,
I live in Stoke, I also have a full set of Coil packs, spark plugs and leads that will be coming up spare as I'm awaiting all new in the next few days. You're more than welcome to come and try any or all of them on your problem. :)
I'm always working on mine.
Be nice to meet another owner.
Lee.
Also, I've previously had work done at Snow's on Leek Road down near Limekiln lights. Nice guys, good prices, and never seemed reluctant.
Hi Lee fancy that, a doorstep neighbour, ha.
Thanks for the offer but I just had new leads a,plugs and one new coil pack. Dave (mitsiboyblue) offered to carry out some diagnostics for me this weekend, will update you all with the findings.
Will have to meet up one day soon Lee
Hi all a massive thank you to Dave mitsiboyblue who carried out a full diagnosis of my car which came up with some of the fault codes that I got through the flashy dash. He cleared the codes for me and after a 50 mile drive back no issues with the car at all. He did say that there is a suspect injector but told me how to trace this if the problem reoccurs. All in all a top bloke thanks again mate
Nice one Dave!
:thumbsup:
Took car for a 20 min spin this afternoon engine light came on and sounded a bit lumpy. Parked up back home and let it idle on lpg I was getting a wideband reading of 11.5, a little on the rich side and revs were at 1000rpm. Switched over to petrol and the revs went down to normal, around 650rpm and this time the wideband reading was 17 a bit lean. Can anyone shed any light from these symptoms?
I am gonna try and check the wiring that Dave suggested and also going to test the injectors hopefully tomorrow after work.
I think you should switch off and totally isolate the LPG system for the time being as trying to diagnose your intermittent engine running fault with the two systems in operation is making the problem twice as hard to fix.
I know you've replaced all plugs, HT leads and one coil pack to no avail and your latest post /discription could point towards an excessive fuel delivery while LPG was in use.
If you have a fault on a petrol injector( ie dribbling /not closing properly ) while on gas this could explain your rich mixture.
I would remove the petrol injectors and individually check resistances then clean by energizing with a12volt power supply using a trusted fuel injector cleaner both ways.(back flushing) by doing this you can see if you have a leaking nossel when the injector should be closed.( ie on power ) Any dirt or accumilated gum or lacquer deposits can also be seen coming out if you use white kitchen paper towel to catch it.
Hopefully this will identify or confirm something for you before moving to the next area of diagnosis if nessassery.
Dave O
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Cheers Dave, that makes sense. Looks like I'm going to be busy the next few days.
I'll keep you posted
Just be a little sensitive with the wiring looms when disconnecting and moving due to brittleness and insulate with tape any cracking cables you find along the way. Dont forget to check that wiring loom for chafing through on that metal bracket above the thermostat housing over the gearbox while your at it.
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Bit of an update. Not managed to do much work on car but thanks to Lee,EvilDmen, found that the front turbw housing is broke right on the flange where pipe bolt attaches. This has been in the past sealed with some sort of sealant. pics attached. I refered this back to my garage who said that this would not give the kind of problem that I have and is stongly indicating towards an internal problem like a sticking valve. Unfortunately, he is far too busy for the forseeable future to undertake the task, so much so that he's loking at 3 years from now!!!
I am totally stumped as where to go next and if anyone can suggest somebody who can take this on for me would be great. In the meantime a cheap turbo would be welcomed as that needs sorting as well.
Thanks guysAttachment 80717Attachment 80718
It looks like the O ring isn't sealing to me. That will give you boost leak issues if so.
Thanks Nick, that may be the case but it doesn't explain the misfire and lumpy feel on idle and the air to fuel ratio goes eratic