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Are there any differences between an auto and manual TPS?
Just managed to smash my manual TPS to bits as I'm removing the engine from the Anglia :(
I have a spare PFL auto TPS from the donor, which my dad is bringing me, but before I get hold of it and fit it, just wanted to check if there are any differences?
And if there are, fires does anyone have a spare TPS? :)
Cheers!
I may have answered my own question (now I'm indoors having lunch) by checking up part numbers for the Super donor and a manual without TCL.
Both use MD614735, but the Super also uses MD614736 as well, apparently.
Well, I'll give the one from the Super a try, and see if it works properly!
There are 2 TPS sensors on an auto, only one on a manual car.
:happy:
Yes, there is :)
But, the common one is hopefully the same, that's what I was checking :)
Garry, there are 2 types of tps:
1. 3-pin, tps only (pins 1,3,4)
2. 4-pin, tps (pins 1, 3, 4) and idle switch (pin 2)
The 1st one is used in most used in pfl auto vehicles where separate aps sensor is fitted opposite side of the throttle body.
The 2nd one is used in manual fl vehicles where only idle switch signal is needed hence built-in in tps.
Both tps are working on the same principle, hence can be swapped. What's more, also tps from Galant n/a, Lancer n/a and Evo 4-6 will work ok (after callibration of course).
Beware tho... there are following physical differences between Mitsubishi tps range:
1. "right" or "left" side of tps (depends on which side of throttle body mentioned tps is fitted). Tps from "left" side won't fit tb which requires tps on "right" side"
2. Tps underwent itself facelifting approx. in 2002. Mitsi had changed shape of mounting on buttefly axis, hence later tps won't fit earlier tb, externally tps looks the same, just shape of axle mount.
Hope didn't confuse you too much :)
Well, the one I fitted from the Super isn't working properly. It bolted up OK and I sorted out the idle position signal before fitting, but once connected to the loom, I get 0.7% in EvoScan, until I depress the pedal about 75% of the way, when the value jumps instantly up to 100% in EvoScan.
So, I don't know if this sensor is knackered and I need a new one, or something needs to be done with it to make it work properly on a manual throttle body (rewiring)?
as far as i am aware, when you go from auto to manual doent the TPS sensor swap from front of throttle body to back of throttle body so it turns the opposit way on the throttle body shaft.
i could be wrong but it seems a correct asumption.
is this correct and if so does it make a differnce to the opperation of the TPS, being turned in the opposite direction.
Garry, the only difference between manual and auto tps is fitted "idle position switch" signal (4th pin), tps itself is the same. I have fitted 4-pin tps (auto) to my S90 throttle body and works perfect, just ips signal not connected.
Don't suppose you did fit "left" tps to the "right" side :) Dave @Davezj it won't work :)
I'm not sure which side it came from, my dad had already removed the TPS from the throttle body.
I think I'd prefer to get a 'known good' one!
What I was trying to say is I believe from memory that the front sensor on the auto throttle body has the same number of wires going to it as the rear single sensor on the manual throttle body. So it is fair to assume all be it the wrong assumption that these sensors are the same. But as said above they will operate in the opposite direction.
Sent from my space-aged gizmo
Garry you do need to remember that setting up tps just by voltage point of closed butterfly is not enough. It varies from ecu to ecu requirements and vehicle - to set up switch point by feeler gauge (seen diferent values from nil to 0.6mm depends on vehicle and engine). Also fixed SAS may vary from engine and make model (not sure tho). Once you have those values spot on according to ecu and engine model then you adjust tps voltage. Otherwise you will have some silly values in Evoscan reading like 16% on closed butterfly idling or reaching max 85% at WOT (that was mine with incorrect switch point).
I have set it up using a feeler gauge for the switch-over point.
With the (now smashed) TPS, I was getting around 12% at idle, and 96% at WOT.
This one is nowhere near that, and not even giving a linear output as expected.
I know that the Super was s**t when it was running (you just need to look back at the posts on here about it, and see how many times it was sold on) and before it was rear-ended for the final time - maybe it was due to dodgy sensors etc, and I just need a new one!
By swapping to the manual throttle body, I also obviously got a good TPS with it. Now either I've installed the wrong one, or it's f*****d. :)
Actually that was spot-on. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Confused
I know!!Quote:
Originally Posted by swinks
I just want something that will replicate that!!!
Am I making it up, or am I right in remembering that sometimes you need to swap the order of the TPS wires when using an auto TPS?
Can't give you definitive answer.
Usual pinout is:
1. feed 5v
2. tps signal
3. empty (ips signal in auto)
4. ground