i might see if i can do a numberplate relocation with one of these brackets you can get on ebay.
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i might see if i can do a numberplate relocation with one of these brackets you can get on ebay.
Exactly, so any plate fitted now without the bs number would be illegal. And an mot tester can fail a car for having a vinyl plate, even if it was fitted before 2001
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Guess I'm just lucky then....
Just have to mount it on the side like the Evo X's do :)
Attachment 52872
Attachment 52873
(Incidentally, LOVE that red!)
yes that is what i was thinking of doing, but the front off the car looks a bit blank.
you could use the tilt down brackets, attach it to the currect location and tilt it down slightly so it would guide more air in to the intercooler. forgot to say use a standard long UK numberplate with this tilt bracket.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NUMBER-PLA...item27c55ea7a5
side bracket something like this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-offs...item5d3341ada1
or this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NUMBER-PLA...item2a0a7e34f3
i am not sure about the look of the front bumper with out the number plate in the middle leaving the hole, we really need a masking plate to go over the hole really to make it look nice.
you could just cut the bit off the bumper that hangs down and replace the grill under it. but i don't know how ugly the egde will be if you just cut it off.
i could not bothered with fiber glassing it all in and filling and sanding and filling and sanding and filling and sanding, priming and painting the whole bumper.
right to get this thread back on topic and to do a bit of a round up.
i have done the following
1. fuel pump 255lph TRE342 done
2. hot wire fuel pump as it is a TRE342 and it is needed via second fuel pump relay bypass of resistor pack. done
3. Fuel presure regulator Sard RJ or copy i am not sure, set to 49psi no vacuum/boost pump so when max boost 20psi, 69psi is required max psi that can be delivered is 75 psi. so well within limits (not that i will ever push 20psi it is just a safety margin.
4. Intercooler 600x300x76mm
5.AFR gauge MTX-L nice and simple
6. UTCOM trip computer which monitors inlet temp pre intercooler and post intercooler.
7. boost sensor loggable via evoscan but need to sort out scaling.
with all this done i can now run 12psi no knock
16psi with minimal knock 3 and under on WAT 3rd gear 40 - 80 which is nice.
i now need to push the boost up and see what happens.
so a good result all round.
the only down side to the modifications is the oil temp at cruise on the motorway was 100deg C but is now 120deg C, there are a few things that could have happened here, i might have damaged the temp sensor when fitting the intercoller, or the larger intercooler i have fitted has blocked some of the cooling air that was getting to the coolant radiator and engine itself, causing the increase in the oil temp. now the water temp might have gone up by one notch on the gauge or it might not.
so i will replace the water temp sensor to check this and it that does not change the temp being seen i will fit som small fans to the back of the intercooler that run at the same time as the coolant rad fans to help draw the required air through the intercoolerand rad.
but all in all quite happy.
i do need to sort out afr and boost logging on eveo scan, but after that i will start with the ecu tuning, to get rid of the final little bits of knock and give it a bit more fuel via the maps.
one question i would like an anaswer to is what is the max duty cycle you should be running on the injectors. at present at about 16psi my injectors are running at about 80% duty cycle. i seem to remember that you don't really want to run them mach harder than 80% duty cycle, but i am not sure. i could have just made this up.
I'm not sure there is a black and white answer to safe injector duty cycle times. I know that very low duty cycles lead to a lack of proper control and very high duty cycles lead to a risk of going lean, but I think it is a case of the risk increases with duty cycle rather than it becomes bad at a set point.
yeh, i thought about it along those lines.
i was really wondering at what point would you say the injectors are maxed out
not that 80% is maxed out, but peak performance range of an injector, i would have thought would have been specified somewhere and when you go outside this range then it is time to look for bigger injectors.
i just don't knoe where that point is.
well here is an update,
i pushed the boost to 18psi and logged for knocksum and only 3 recorded result, and i thashed it. i am sure i can tune that out witha bit of timing playing
makes me happy.
This thread is interesting but you are just stabbing in the dark. If less money was thrown at trying to solve a problem you only believe that you have (high charge temps) and more on actually identifying the problem (installing a thermocouple) then you would have known quantity to work from.
It just seems incredibly far fetched to be thinking about fuel coolers/larger intercoolers etc without actually knowing your charge temps and assessing the reality of your potential solutions in actually solving the problem
i did have an actual problem, which was high knocksum counts when i thrashed the car with WOT, and it is this that i was trying to address.
i did have a temp sensor on the inlet and exit temp of the intercooler to see the effect of factory and bigger after market replacement intercooler, which i found quite interesting. and was a nice thing to do.
unfortunately my temp measurement gear has now broken so maybe i will get a thermocouple extension cable to allow me to mount my other temp probe in the car on a more perminent basis.
as you have said i too think charge temp is a contributing factor in casusing knock but not the only thing, as after i fitted the bigger intcooler it made almost no differce to my kocksum count, but did reduce the inlet temp.
from a rough 50% drop across the factroy intercooler, to a rough 66% drop across the bigger after market intercooler.
so i have partially addressed the charge temp issue with the bigger intercooler, i could have done more, but i have limited funds to achieve this.
i have also ensured there is enough fuel avilable to support the kind of boost pressure i can generate with standard turbos.
which has significantly reduced my knock issue.
so i have achieved what i set out to do at the start.
it would have been also been nice to log all the temps, boost pressure, afr's, atmospheric condition, engine temps, and every other perameter that is likely to effect the performance of the car when i made every individual little change, but i didn't. It would also have been nice to have access to rolling road so i could do the setup in the dry and comfort of a garage to get some instant results , but i don't. life is a b1tch. lol.
would you care to share your knowledge of inlet temps and let me know what range of values will be good, accectable, bad. so when i get my themocouple setup i can verify my inlet temp are in the good range of values, and if they are not then i can do something more to be keep them in check.
any info will be gratefully received.
Sorry to hijack things but does anyone have a pfl hotside intercooler pipe for sale or know we’re I’d get one have a fL model Tnx