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Going to do my valve covers and lifters soon.
So I was wondering, are there any headbolt upgrades that drop right in? Or is it better to step up a notch to a bigger bolt size? If drop ins, can I just loosen 1, and put a new one back in, or lossen all according to shedule?
Also, will regrinding cams need a remap?
Got a spare set laying around. Was thinking of doing this also when I am at it?
(viamoto headgasket set any good?)
Any other things I should do?
I'm pretty sure @Davezj has done the headbolts that way, so he can probably confirm, and which ones to get if you can't find his thread about it on here.
As far as I know, the cams don't need a remap, but as with most modifications, would likely get the best results by remapping on a rolling road.
And last time I looked, Viamoto's headgasket set was from Mitsubishi anyway! :thumbsup:
Have a look at this https://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showth...ARP-Head-Studs
yes the info in that thread has the correct info for ARP head studs that will fit and be stringer clamping force on the head than the factory standard stretch head bolts.
i am doing a thread on an engine rebuild most of which you will want to do if you are doing head studs and cam change.
howmuch are you wanating to spend on you car?
doing this sort of stuff will probably cost over £1000 in parts. due to all the other stuff you will be changing at the same time.
I dont want to rebuild anything. I dont want to take the engine out, nor take the heads off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Davezj
(good looking thread though.)
And about those headbolts, you did use something else than ARP?
So, who did regrind there cams and to what spec or how can I determine at what spec they needed to regrind to?
Quote:
Originally Posted by metaripley
i would recommend using ARP but you can use whatever you like.
with regard to cam spec, what do you want to achieve. there is only so much you can do with a regrind. you can only remove a small amount of material from the cam shaft to increase the lift.
standard lift is about 8.5mm this can be increased to about 9.8mm max with out running into valve train geometry problems.
this is the point i am trying to make, if you are taking cam shafts out you will probably do the timing belt as well as it has to come off to remove the cam shafts so you will need the following,
new rocker cover gaskets £50
new spark plug hole gaskets £36
potentially new rocker cover washers. £54
you want to change head bolts £220ish
camshaft regrid (sending them to Australia for the work to be done) £600-£800 ish (Kenneily Cam in OZ, i think that is how you spell it.)
new valve springs due to the higher lift cam profile (will be needed stop valve bounce). £150ish
new timing belt £70
new water pump £50
new tensioner pulley £30
new idler pulley £20
potentially new aux belt and pas belt plus tentioner pulley for each. £80
new plenum gasket £20
new throttle body gasket £15
new spark plugs (the plenum is off you might as well change them while they are access able) £40
get the injector cleaned (while the plenum is off) £100
these are sort of thing i would advise you to consider if you removing the cam shafts for a regrind.