You can have few off me as I bought ,bulk, so there's plenty left.
Printable View
Excellent idea.
I will catch up with on Saturday if not before.
Did this today :).....Attachment 70604
Painted my front calipers (badly).
Yay for this thread :D
fitted my OMP deep dish wheel.
Attachment 70606
Another days in garage just gone, HID conversion is on hold as they send me ONE wrong nut and that was last package open, now back on the shelf and waiting for one bloody nut to come from HK.
in process
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wrong nut discovery
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Anyway, its cold to sit and wait for right parts from china to arrive so to fulfil my time I start another 'little' job.
parts to fit
Attachment 70616
in the process
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done and dusted
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Well worth the hassle, reason why I did it was a fairly big boost leak from lower injector seals, actually most of vr4 which we tested for boost leaks pissing boots this way, this little seals become very hard over the 12+ years of immense heat and are not able to seal injectors properly, thing is if you replace bottom only you still have very hard seal at the top of injector so its a big chance that this will not seal properly with fresh lower seal so you need to change the lot. After change there is no boost leak any more, result!!!
Removed the IC pipe from the purple VR-4:
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Only to find out that the IC on the silver one has larger inlets. The bodged bit of metal inside was a joke and not suitable at all being only the width of a mikalor clamp. Had to chop up one of the hard pipes on the purple VR-4 to fit inside the 2 insufficient lengths of silicon hose. Much better much more secure and a massive PITA to do and to fit due to zero space to work with but after 4yrs of ownership im used to that now lol.
Thats that sorted. Boost solenoid next.
I've put the winter wheels and tyres on today. Not very exciting!
Just spent a quick half hour before it gets dark changing this pesky little blighter. For those not in the know it is the ignition switch. Ever since I have had the car I have had an occasional issue where the car won't start. The dash lights come on as normal on first click of key but then on the 2nd click when the engine should turn over nothing at all was happening. Recently it had gotten worse so I decided to finally do something about it.
Seems quite a common issue, not just for Legnum/Galant owners as this model of ignition switch is pretty common, particularly is North America Chrysler, Dodge etc. For reference it is a Standard/T-Series US278T Ignition Switch, costs about £17 from US (Couldn't find an online UK supplier.)
Problem is the hole where the end of the Ignition barrel pin penetrates (Oo er!) loses its rectangular cross section and rounds off meaning when the key and therefore the ignition pin turn there is play which means the switch is not quite turning enough to make contact to start the engine.
New one fitted and can tell even from feel of turning key that it is a lot better, car starting better than it ever has! :)
Attachment 70651
https://vimeo.com/113041417
I have a small water leak. Lol
Latest rebuild using different hella projectors and led flexi.
Now all 4 lights are low beam and inner two are high beam also. ( moving shutter with 1 bulb)
All hid 5k.
Looks a bit Range Rover Evo ish!.
No angel eyes, just reflection of led flexi in the projector lens
Photos below
Fitted my super side skirts today with the help 2 other Legnum owners
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Installed my new digital boost gauge today, looks so much better than the horrible white analogue one wouldnt you agree?
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