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0-60 times
I've been feeling a little let down by my legnum since owning it.
It doesn't seem to live up to the hype in terms of power.. so I decided to do a sneaky 0-60 run.
Wasn't that accurate as I was using my phone with GPS
But I got a time of just 8.8 seconds.
Full auto and I'm carrying weight in the boot, I also then discovered that my tyre pressures were all over the place.
I've not had a chance to do another pull since.
But I've seen reports of around 6-7 seconds is the norm for a factory spec car.
I envisioned these cars to be ballistic missiles on the road and somewhat of (to coin Clarksons words) a 3rd world dictator, who doesn't want to kill you, but will do if that's what's necessary
That said, if I removed all the weight, check pressures before hand and did another pull, I could be somewhere around stock figures surely? Provided everything is healthy ofcourse
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brake stand in an auto helps a lot, and as important is control of boost and vacuum leaks so fuelling isn't all over the shop.
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I just came off the brake and pinned the throttle. Let the car do what it wanted to do and hurtle towards the horizon
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You should be under 7 seconds in a stock car even without a launch.
Low boost or boost leaks are the most common cause of poor performance.
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Hope it's okay to chirp up...
I've only had my Legnum about 6 months but I have 20 years experience with FTOs, have owned about 30 and in that time done about a dozen cambelts changes now. I appreciate that the FTO has the 6A12 but as you all know they are pretty closely related.
Of the dozen or so Cambelts I have now changed about HALF of them had been previously fitted incorrectly by 1 to 3 teeth difference between cams and crank.
This resulted in all cases in a loss of power, all owners (if not on my own cars) where amazed at the improvement. It would seem the ECU could tolerate and allow for the discrepancy but power is reduced anything from 10 - 20 % I would suggest.
The issue is that people DON'T READ THE BLOODY MANUAL...in the main 'professional' mechanics are the worst. Their experience seems to sometimes make them complacent/over confident.
To clarify the Cambelt on the 6A12 AND 6A13TT has a very long run from front bank exhaust cam cam around water pump to crank pulley but the tensioner is on the rear 'run' of the belt.
It is nigh on impossible to fit that long front run as tight as a banjo spring and Mitsubishi know this.
The manual tells you to align all cam timing marks and crank mark BUT turn the Crank a half a tooth back ( but in reality 1 tooth is best) . This means that when the tensioner is adjusted and tension applied the 'slack' in the front long run is pulled out on the rear run and crank rotates a tooth clockwise compared to cams as a result.
If this isn't done the slack being pulled out results in all the cams being in time with each other BUT out of time with Crank. Fuelling will compensate as will ignition via the crank sensor but the engine will never feel the full benefit of the cams.
The point of this ramble (and apologies if teaching to suck eggs) is that as well as the VR4 unique possible issues of Turbo leak if teh Cambelt has been changed by someone not familiar with the above this may be the source of less than a 'white knuckle ride'.
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i would agree with andy, it is very easy to get the timing belt put on wrong and leave it with onw tooth out from crank to cam.
relatively straight forward to check.
the timing belt cover has marrkngs on it at the cran,k the crank aux belt pulley has a notch cut into it on the back side next to the aux belt to marry up with the timing marks.
so it is only really the top cam covers to remove. to check it is all in line.
or if you are like me just don't fit the cam covers and timnig is easy to keep an eye one every now and then.