Someone tryed to do something big with NA engine? I would try to put forged pistons and then supercharger, but there is no many aftermarket parts. Someone tryed this set https://shop.rpw.com.au/product/forg...hi-6a13-turbo/ ?
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Someone tryed to do something big with NA engine? I would try to put forged pistons and then supercharger, but there is no many aftermarket parts. Someone tryed this set https://shop.rpw.com.au/product/forg...hi-6a13-turbo/ ?
I don't remember anyone doing that. Most common is just to swap the 6A13TT in instead.
I know but I want to build something different than swap. I want to put eaton m65, than air to IC and from IC to flow meter. Stock ECU support max 0,6 bar so I will put also piggyback. I am gathering full info and then i will start.
Good luck! I'd be fascinated to see how you get on. People have certainly bought stuff from RPW but not many have got to the need of forged internals so I wouldn't say that there is exhaustive knowledge.
Please let us know what you do, photos are always good too! :thumbsup:
The factory MAF is not a blow through MAF it is not designed to be pressurised.
i have never seen anyone try to pressurise the MAF so i would not know if it would work or not.
but it is an expensive mistake to make if it just splits the body open or bursts carman vortex sensor bit.
i have seen a Z32 MAF being used in a blow through configuration but but again the plastic housing would rupture and had to be replaced for a metal one.
i do not know if that type of maf will work on a 6a13 N/A engine you will probably have to reflash the ecu and change the maf scaling tables but that is all experimentation as i don't believe it has been done before.
Hello and welcome to ClubVR4.
As Davezj has touched on, our MAFs will not work properly in blow-through mode. The way the Karman Vortex generator works requires equal and laminar airflow over it - even changing to a pod filter or replacing the stock airbox messes up the fuelling terribly, and the airflow in blow-through mode will mess with this very delicate and precise metering method.
I would also suggest that you do not try to re-use the OEM ECU and a piggyback - yes, you might be able to trick the ECU into messing with the fuelling, but from experience, it won't be a particularly nice car to drive or tune with the piggyback.
Modern (and I talk of later than ~2010) aftermarket ECUs such as Link, Haltech, ECUMaster, Syvecs will give you such better driveability, tunability and most importantly engine protection methods - that the ECU should be your *first* investment - not the final thing to rush into at the end of a build. The "cost" difference of buying an aftermarket ECU can easily be swallowed up in dyno time trying to tune a piggyback (as I have already found out... buy cheap, buy twice...)
I'm not aware of anyone really bothering to push the n/a 6A13, as the 6A13TT already exists, and out of the box already provides a 70% power increase, before you start fettling with it. People are pushing towards 400-500hp on a stock 6A13TT with the right combination of turbo and good tuning.
That said, if you do wish to continue down the supercharged 6A13 route, please keep us up to date with know how you get on, and we'll provide whatever knowledge we can!