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No faults on flashy dashy only the one than was a fault at changing to gear 3. Straight from cold, oil looks good but going straight into limp mode when going to 3rd. Bit jerking when changing to reverse as well. Any ideas where to look before I will take it out
Thank you in advance
have you been doing any work on your car before this failure occurred?
what was the scenario of the failure?
e.g. 1. were you thrashing the car on track and the failure occurred.
2. have you left you car standing for 2 years and come back to it tried to start it and drive it away and the failure occurred.
3. have you been driving the car about for the last 3 weeks with no issues at all, putting your foot down every now and then and the car has performed perfectly. you got up the next day and BAM the car will not go into gear.
what has made you jump at the possibility of a wave spring failure. have you been told by someone that this is the likely cause or are you just widely just jumping on the wave spring thing because you have been reading threads and panicking.
let us know some background detail and we might be able to help you.
please remember we only know what you tell us.
if you don't tell us something happened or it makes a noise or it starts to smoke or you replaced the radiator recently with one that does not contain an oil cooler and have been running with no cooling or cold start heating.
we don't know, it never happened.
please be specific.
Was my daily with new oil like 3 months ago , happened on the way home under heavy acceleration. For last week everytime when shifting gears up 3-4 4-5 with heavy acceleration I was leaving skid marks
Excessive line pressure to shift that hard i would imagine?
Not sure what to suggest other than dropping oil and checking for chunks and glitter. What oil was used in the gearbox?
Why were you leaving skid marks?Quote:
Originally Posted by Cehaigrek
can you give more detail which of the following is the reason.
are the gear changes really harsh and fast?
are the gear changes the same when using D and the manual mode.
what fluid did you use to fill the gear box was it SPIII compliant please specify the exact type. if you ahve used the wrong fluid type it can cause all kinds of issues with the gear change.
1. the car was only working in rear wheel drive and you were doing a burnout on the rear wheels only when the gear box shifted from 3-4 and 4-5. it will not do this in 1-2 or 2-3.
2. you are under rotating the wheel when changing gear and locking up the wheel causing a skid and massive deceleration.
3. you have got huge amounts of power above normal levels in the car and as soon as the gearbox changes gear you are breaking traction with all four wheels and doing a four wheel burnout. if so are you doing this 1-2 and 2-3 as well.
4. have you got bald tyres or very low tread and crap tyres with none or very low grip.
i have seen a VR4 with very crap tyres loose the back end in a car park very time you have small amount of steering lock and put your foot in the throttle not good at all when you are sat in the back. Vom making motion.
more detail required from you.
Car was changing gears quite harsh, literally when upshifting all 4 wheels spin for a second or few, tyres are more than decent, yes car can have a bit more power than normal.
I changed speed sensors as had spare one just for good measure really but obviously it didn't change anything.
When in manual mode I can change 1 2 but once I hit 3 is going straight into limp mode.
When I was leaving ng skid marks there are not breaking one more like burnout one.
About no burnout in 1 2 yes I was able to do it but 34 45 was just last week which I should mention and no I didn't change anything recently its just happened.
And yes I had amsoil atf
Also when shifting to D or R now car is jerking / shaking so badly that you can get whiplash.
Judging from the F5A51 manual and with the additional symptoms, I would guess the reduction band wasn't releasing quickly enough and was locking the transmission up. If this was the case it would possibly cook the overdrive clutch (used in 3,4,5) or the band, else gearset damage. the Low Reverse solenoid is used both to select reverse/low (below 6mph) and also the direct clutch in 4 and 5 so might also be implicated.
Id be interested to know what codes you have, i would guess
P0733, P0753, P0768 might be present.
When I checked codes before it was
43 You do not shift gear do not complete 3rd gear 23- 21
I just checked now and is
22 input axis speed sensor systematic short circuit/broken wire 23- 15
is that one of the wheel speed sensors. or is it the input shaft speed sensor on top of the gear box that sits underneath the air box.. it could be as i have seen the pins of the sensor corrode away to blue green dust because people let the hollows in the gear box casing fill with water and the sensors sit in the bottom of these hollows so input shaft speed sensor could be a culprit.
if my memory serves me right the input shaft is at the front ad the output shaft sensor is at the back. both sensors are on top of the auto box but one is in a hollow that can fill with water. just unplug it to check for good contacts or not.