Engine issue's and lack of power

Hi, I bought a 2000 Mitsubishi ralliart legnum vr4 yesterday, it has a couple of issue's the first one being that when I start it from cold it struggles to idle without me adding a little revs, once I've driven a little bit it will idle on it's own although slightly rough like it is hunting revs, then all of a sudden it idles perfectly, really smooth and sounds nice.

Second issue is from a standing start in the wet turning into a corner applying power can spin the rear wheels which gives the illusion of power but a snobby woman in a modern mazda suv smokes me getting onto a motorway right upto 80 and I doubt she even rung it's neck, generally women don't but I could be wrong, even so the vr4 should have passed her 60mpg eco suv any day of the week, my 1990 205 would have lost both of them.
I should add that the ayc pump has been removed, this will make the rear wheels spin? I think causing traction loss, I need to find somewhere that will fit a refurb unit on a drive in drive out service? If anyone knows of anywhere I would appreciate that a lot.

Third issue is the car seems to lose breath well before the red line, the revs climb slowly? The boost gauge stays around the 0.4 kg/cm2 which is roughly 5.5psi.

Can anyone tell me what engine code I have and what the BHP should be? So I can compare to a dyno test run I'm hoping to have done next week if I'm not working, I'm from Manchester so looking for a 4x4 test centre, then once I've done this I plan on changing the plugs and fluids etc along with the belts providing I have time.

Thanks in advance for your help

Temperature sender has recently been found to cause some bad *warm soaked* idling, sticky throttle plate, idle air stepper, bad coil plug all might cause those issues. and more.

Engine code info i already answered in your other thread and the reving with some first thoughts. Power numbers you can find with about 3 seconds of googling. Wheel spinning - check your tyres and tyre pressures and suspension condition. if all are good, its a driver problem :)

Depending what exact car was being driven, dont be fooled. A lot of comparably low *power* diesels will give a lot of things pain mid-range. A quick look shows that you can get 9s 0-62 in some of those Mazdas, and have 380 n.m of torque along with 6 speed gearbox we have at best in stock form 370Nm and 1 less cog and the Mazda is a couple of years old, not a couple of decades...
<snipped long discussion of importance of torque and gearing>
2 identical cars, except 1 has 5 evenly spaced gears the other 6. from 30-80
do some math in excel and you get 7% slower to final speed, and they travelled:
4.5% further when they shift to 3rd.
3.5% further when they shift to 4th and that is how they finish the race, ~3.5% ahead over the length of the slip road, or, probably gaining about 5 car lengths.

Even the big Mazda CX-5 is barely heavier than a legnum will have a much more efficient drive-train and the skyactive stuff helping out a bit too.

All 8th gen VR4s are 6A13TT, all have 280ps except early autos (yours isn't) and all should comfortably pull away from a Mazda people carrier.
Your boost is low. I would suspect from a bad boost solenoid but it could be a boost leak. I suspect a bad solenoid because you are running wastegate pressure. This will leave you around 30 bhp lower than stock.

Thanks for the replies, yeah I can't have that a modern suv will keep up with a 2.5 v6 twin turbo petrol, that is supposed to do 0 - 60 in 5.9/5.7 seconds if that was the case every tuner would have one 60mpg up the boost couple other mods n have a sub 5 second 0 - 60 doing 50 mpg,

I literally was looking at sporty cars and saw this n wanted one, that was just over a week ago so you will have to forgive me as I don't know much about them at the moment but I'm learning and trying to pick up as much info as Possible, don't forget you guys abbreviate words and that throws me off straight away, some of the topics are hard to follows as it can go 0 to technical within a couple of posts, it's the first Japanese car I've owned, I want to look after it and restore it as best I can, then maybe add a few more bhp

I'm hoping to have another garage day soon - hopefully sometime in March - if you can get across to Mansfield for this, there'll be plenty of people around who can help with the basics, and give you some assistance, and hopefully send you on your way with either a fixed car, or knowing exactly what's what, and what needs fixing :)

Until then, however, search, search, search here! :)

When it is all working you will be smiling every time you get in!
Was this the car you picked up? https://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showth...t-2000-enfield

The buyers guide is a good starting point, makes it easier to get going technically with a bit of background. https://www.clubvr4.com/forum/conten...4-Buyers-Guide
Some basics to know (others feel free to correct or add to)
The engine is a quad cam, multi point fuel injected, twin turbo inter-cooled v6, the 6A13TT. Ignition is wasted spark coil on plug (found on the front bank) with these 3 providing ignition to the rear bank via HT leads. The turbos are oil and water fed and found low down front and rear. The engine uses a Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) that is sensitive to changes in the intake from stock. The cooling system is sensitive to being bled properly and also sensitive to old or incorrect coolant use and owing to the age of the cars, hoses are often well due replacement throughout. The engine bolts to either a 5 speed manual or 5 speed invecs ii auto - the auto is tiptronic, push the stick to the left from drive then up/down to shift. It will downshift when you come to a stop but it wont stop you banging the limiter. Beware 0.5s delay from request to action. The 4wd system is permanent, no flat towing and absolutely no 2 wheels up towing. trailer only!

MOT issues can generally be summarised as:
Rust
Ball Joints
Rust
Bushes
Rust
Emissions
Rust and
Rust.

If you see rust, get it seen to as soon as you can! Sills, Strut towers, rear arches are first to go.

Servicing is regular and essential for good running. The actual work is not hard to do with basic tools. Access to a ramp or lift or pit will make it much much easier. IF you don't have an owners manual, grab a copy from the resource library. For now i refer you to Eurospecs breakdown. http://www.euro-spec2000.co.uk/servi...ubishi/galant/ AYC clutch pack is done about as often as engine oil! All fluids fully synthetic (I use 0w30 engine, others 5w30 a few 5w40 - 0w30 or 5w30 is what comes in the Japanese manual but age, milage, use pattern all play a part), ATF/AYC must be SPIII or better. A lot of oils list that, but only a few actually do meet it. Mitsubishi, Hyundai, AMSoil, Millers plus a few more - beware DEXRON!

Many parts are shared with either Evos or EU spec Galants but not everything. No panel changes except for facelift bonnets being more aggressive and facelift estates, changes at the back on those. Lots of changes to the body kit however.

Interior is generally compatible across all 8g cars, exceptions are rear door cards and rear seats which are saloon or estate. The interior range includes cream leather + walnut trim, black leather + black trim, black leather + walnut trim, grey cloth, red cloth, blue cloth. Heated electrically adjusted is an option basically only on EU interiors same for lumbar support.
Tip: Dont leave the wing mirror selector switch in the set positions left/right or in/out. return to the mid point. If you get a fault this will stop it stripping gears when you are not looking!
Tip: The temperature control knob can be pressed in to set the AC to automatic control (compressor, vent selection, fan speed). If this mode behaves erratically, eg blowing red hot air into a hot cabin there is a hose attached to the back of it that will probably have come loose. The fan and vent settings will move about as you drive, this is normal. enjoy it. There is a dedicated front demist button that sets fan speed vent selection and temperature to best clear the windscreen for you. Consider setting the far outer vents to spill over the side windows if its cold/wet and you have passengers, they tend to mist up.
Tip: In rain you might find your windows get filthy right in the line of sight to the mirrors. don't bother rolling the windows down - it wont help clean them and will get you very very wet. stop somewhere and wipe down or consider rainx if you can apply it properly.

Thanks for the info, I read things think Oh yeah then can't remember what I've read exactly to the word or where it was, a bit like chinese whispers, so much going in but to remember it again is difficult at first but once I've read a few things over it will stick eventually and I'll remember and know things off by heart like other's.

Haha take it theu are prone to a little rust, yes that is the car I picked up, I worked all day then got the train from Manchester Piccadilly and drove it home, it was a long day to say the least, I told the Mrs we need another estate because they are more practical as we have twins arriving anytime in the next few weeks, when she saw it she said, so you just wanted a toy then! Ha I could do with buying a known working selonoid or buy a boost controller as I read somewhere that you get rid of the selonoids if you add a digital boost controller, I read it and at the time took it all in but now I need to remember it I can't, but if I start to read it again I'll be like "oh yeah that's it" a lot to take in for now.

Really appreciate the time people have taken to help me out, thanks

I can make it over to Mansfield, 55 miles from me, not a bad drive, thanks look forward to it providing I can make it

There are a few cars being broken down right now - Check the for sale section - If you need something worth asking, it might be available. Few fall off the road for mechanical reasons sadly :(

Personally I would get a three port solenoid to replace the stock one and then talk to Jay @foxdie about a quick tune with added boost rather than buy a boost controller.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Nick Mann

Personally I would get a three port solenoid to replace the stock one and then talk to Jay @foxdie about a quick tune with added boost rather than buy a boost controller.

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:iagree:

Get yourself a Perrin EBCS (ie this, but other retailers are of course available and may be cheaper), and then either Jason or myself can do some tuning for you to extract a little more poke :)