Access to the underneath of the fusebox

Printable View

18-12-2021, 05:58 PM
Judder

3 Attachment(s)

Access to the underneath of the fusebox

So I'm trying to install some new horns and need to get access to the bottom of the horn relay to be able to wire them in to the existing steering wheel horn button relay but can't seem to lift the fusebox even though I've unbolted the only two bolts I can see holding it in place as per arrows below

The mount, circled in blue, looks like it should be just a guide but it doesn't easily seem to move

Any tips, thoughts or past experience much appreciated!

Attachment 83270

Attachment 83271

Attachment 83273
19-12-2021, 09:36 PM
SinkreZ

Removing airbox and battery would help a lot already. Might need to remove fender to unplug clip from frame.
20-12-2021, 01:05 AM
Judder

Thanks - I wonder thinking about it that locating the original horns and unplugging them might be easier - does anyone have a picture or a diagram of where they are? Looking around the engine bay with a torch and even trying to remove a front light I can't seem to find them so any tips much appreciated!
20-12-2021, 01:44 AM
Judder

2 Attachment(s)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Judder

Thanks - I wonder thinking about it that locating the original horns and unplugging them might be easier - does anyone have a picture or a diagram of where they are? Looking around the engine bay with a torch and even trying to remove a front light I can't seem to find them so any tips much appreciated!

I think I might be able to answer my own post in that the 1997 wiring diagrams show the two horns as being behind the bumper on the passenger side of a RHD car

Although I'm not convinced that getting to these connectors will help me, because the car has an after market Mongoose alarm so I'm wondering if when they installed this they killed the horns A-17 and A-18 at the same time as disabling the Theft-alarm horns A-13 and A14

If I do need to remove the bumper bar me sniffing around for bolts is there any thread anyone can remember that might make my journey easier?

Thanks!

Attachment 83275

Attachment 83276
20-12-2021, 11:16 AM
Nick Mann

Go under the car and look up, the horns are where you think they will be from that diagram - one on each side of the car. I don't think that can be a VR4 wiring diagram, as there is no theft horn that I am aware of. There is no factory alarm, so why fit a theft horn?
20-12-2021, 01:31 PM
Davezj

Quote:

Originally Posted by Judder

So I'm trying to install some new horns and need to get access to the bottom of the horn relay to be able to wire them in to the existing steering wheel horn button relay but can't seem to lift the fusebox even though I've unbolted the only two bolts I can see holding it in place as per arrows below

The mount, circled in blue, looks like it should be just a guide but it doesn't easily seem to move

Any tips, thoughts or past experience much appreciated!

Attachment 83270

Attachment 83271

Attachment 83273

If you want to fit some extra horns then just splice into the existing horn wires at the horn itself don't bother with doing anything with fuse box.

As long as you are not fitting a stupid high current draining train horn type thing then existing wiring should be fine to splice into.
Or if you are fitting something that requires a lot more current then fit a relay with a dedicated fused feed to it and use the existing horn wire to trigger the relay.
20-12-2021, 01:36 PM
Judder

Thanks both for the replies and no I'm not fitting a stupid high current horn, actually just a horn that works as I failed the NCT (MOT) last time as the horns didn't work and had to wire in a temporary horn to get through

I'll try and jack up the car this afternoon and have a look underneath and see if I can see the existing horns - as long as those trigger with the existing relay then I can just remove those or splice into that wire and go from there.

Thanks for the advice and will report back - BTW 1997 wiring diagram from the members resources section on this site
20-12-2021, 07:00 PM
Davezj

Quote:

Originally Posted by Judder

Thanks both for the replies and no I'm not fitting a stupid high current horn, actually just a horn that works as I failed the NCT (MOT) last time as the horns didn't work and had to wire in a temporary horn to get through

I'll try and jack up the car this afternoon and have a look underneath and see if I can see the existing horns - as long as those trigger with the existing relay then I can just remove those or splice into that wire and go from there.

Thanks for the advice and will report back - BTW 1997 wiring diagram from the members resources section on this site

That wiring manual is for a UK spec galant not a Japan import.
So you need to take it with a pinch of salt.
You need to know which electrical systems you have on your car and if the same system is available on the UK spec car you can use the UK spec manual to work out what is going on.
some of systems are the same as a UK spec galant
21-12-2021, 04:10 PM
Judder

7 Attachment(s)

OK - so as I wasn't a. in the mood to take the front bumper off, b. still couldn't easily locate the existing horns and c. as Davezj points out didn't have the correct Japanese wiring diagram for my car, I decided to cheat and rig into the existing fuse box location my new wiring

There is a gap in the fusebox to the left of the big blue and yellow fuses where you can feed wires in and then connect in to the low current part of the relay so that we get the trigger from the steering wheel horn button

Attachment 83277

I wired a fused +12V straight from the battery to power my new horns

Attachment 83278

and then attached a new fused relay bought from eBay to the underneath of the top bar above the radiator and bolted my horns either side of the lights using the top light bolt as their mount point. The bonnet latch provides a handy ground for both horns either side and fully tested it works great :)

Attachment 83279

Attachment 83283

I also used the opportunity of having the grill out to swap in the stealth black with gold logo grill that I think I purchased off one of the members or ex-members from here :thumbsup:

Attachment 83280

Attachment 83281
21-12-2021, 11:20 PM
Davezj

the circuit you have created using the original horn feed to switch the new really with a fused battery feed is OK to do but i think your choice of the position of the horns is not very good.
you basically block a lot of air flow to the top of the radiator, the hottest part.

why did you not mount the new horns next to the old one or just remove the old ones and fit the new horns in there place.

both of my vr4 have two horn one either side of the radiator above the fog light.
you get access to them from under the car.
23-12-2021, 12:23 PM
Braddy40

I agree with Dave. I replaced and upgraded just one of my horns on the passenger side. If you jack up just the one corner you will be surprised how much room there is up in there and is an easy spacious swap over. Definitely no need to remove bumper and probably one of the easier job on a Legnum.
23-12-2021, 05:04 PM
Judder

Quote:

Originally Posted by Braddy40

I agree with Dave. I replaced and upgraded just one of my horns on the passenger side. If you jack up just the one corner you will be surprised how much room there is up in there and is an easy spacious swap over. Definitely no need to remove bumper and probably one of the easier job on a Legnum.

Thanks guys - well that does sound a better route to go then - I'll jack up one corner next week and get under the car to see what I can see. Using the original wiring is definitely my preference too :thumbsup:

I will report back...