yeah, probably the 998th facelift made.
My prefacelift is something like ec5w-00175xx, I'll check it in the morning if you still need to know. What is your car's?
yeah, probably the 998th facelift made.
My prefacelift is something like ec5w-00175xx, I'll check it in the morning if you still need to know. What is your car's?
mines
ec5w - 0004380,
built in 01-09-96
but reg'd as a 98? must have sat in the yard for a while,
yeh still need to know,
wanna check if the proportion valve is a v6/vr4 diff and not a pre/post diff
Thats a strange one, maybe the guys in NZ registering it stuffed it up? I'll get the number for you in the morning unless someone else provides you with one
The booster is just there to assist you in pushing the pedal, so I don't think it's that. It should simply give you more/less assist, depending on size and internals.Originally Posted by Gly
Your problem is either with the volume of fluid being shifted with each press, in which case it is most likely to be the master cylinder, or a compressible subsance (ie air) in the brake lines.
I would have thought the proprtioning valve is only going to adjust your front/rear brake balance.
I'm not an expert (just very important )
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Gly,
Had problems with brakes on my late (2001) vr4 also. You can get a mitsui' service kit for your master cylinder. They are prone to weeping out of the back of the cylinder, hence losing pedal. Have you got standard flexi hoses? are they due for changing? try some stainless steel replacement flexi lines. These will most def' reduce pedal travel. Also suggest Dot5 synthetic brake fluid. Mitsui' did not mind at all when I upgraded my brakes whilst under their warranty! . Brakes are definately the weak link on VR4s.
There is also a factory recall on certain Vr4s were they change almost everything under the bonnet! todo with the brake system.
Are your caliper seals and all connections in good order?
Good luck.
Al.
The problem where they replace everything is only on asc equipped cars, which Gly doesn't have.
we need a cert to change to SS braided lines,
so still using stock lines,
using dot 5 fluid,
its been bleed 5 times now,
the pedal pumps up hard when the engines not running,
and goes soft and spongy when as soon as the motors started,
Normal for the pedal to 'ease off' once vacuum assist kicks in, but shouldn't become spongy.Originally Posted by Gly
well today was fun..
liberated the parts from kens wreak,
easy as as all the bolts had already been undone,
back home, rip out my old booster,
fit the vr4 booster which is much bigger than the v6 one,
up the road for a test spin, little improvement, not what i wanted thou.
then rip out my old master cylinder, confirm it was a 1" unit, same as the vr4,
then fit the master i got from the wreak (1" unit aswell)
full rebleed again, used 1l of fluid,
went for a test spin, yeah i little improvment, still not happy....
then on the way home, the breaks felt better after having let the car sit for a while,
there is still alot (imho) of pedal travel needed, but thats to be expected,
it does bite, but im still not happy with it.
to much travel needed IMO,
so will be tracking down a 17/16 master cylinder to fit next weekend hopefully.
so once its done, ill have a evo 7 brake setup,
17/16 master with a 8"/9" booster and brembos all round.
ill update once its all changed.
Well it sounds like you're getting there, it may help some others who need have brembo's, I might be keen for a 17/16" master cylinder too
cool, ill let you know,
sent a email of to www.racebrakes.co.nz
see what they can offer.
and for anyone in the uk whos interested
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mitsubishi-Lan...QQcmdZViewItem
not to bad a price
also been doing more research...
the GTOs that had 4 pots also use a 17/16 master cylinder
i my have more luck getting one of those cheap!
its a Z16A chassis
I got mine along with all the power steering piping and some other bits from MLR for 50 quid delivered.Originally Posted by psbarham
I'll wait and see how Gly gets on - may then fit the EVO master cylinder.
ok the GTO on is a NO GO,
the cup sits on the oppisite side to ours,
and i dont think theres enough room for it,
leaving only the evo 5/6 item,
which also has a different plug for the fluid level sensor,
EVO 5/6 item
and anyone got a pic of the evo 7/8/9 item?
specifically of the the fluid level sensor plug,
my copy of caps dont have a break down of the parts
Last edited by Gly; 25-02-2007 at 06:00 AM.
Sorry for bumping such an old thread, but I thought I might as well continue on this one.
Anyone know if a Evo 7/8/9 Brake master cylinder works on the VR-4?
Broken mine, and have a hard time sourcing a Evo 5/6 part here in Sweden.
Evo 6 items should be avaliable via Mitsu, but I don't feel like throwing that much money their way.
Found a E9 master cylinder at breakers, just need to know if it fits!
Thanks!
Just ordered the Evo9 item. Should pop up sometime next week, and I'll make sure to report back if it fits properly.
EDIT:
Anyone got any idea as how to get the bloody brake lines of the master cylinder? They've settled in quite nice there, and the open-end spanner slips... Could use some heat, but don't want to ruin the cylinder in case the new part doesn't fit, and I'll have to order a repair kit.
Last edited by peter.nilsson83; 12-06-2008 at 10:02 AM.
you need open ended ring spanners,
there like a ring spanner except thicker, and only open on one flat edge 5/6 edges are grabbed by it.
yes they would do it.
You can also buy hardened standard open end spanners that will not bend. they will snap if you wack it with a hammer but not bend.
The only other option is heat treat the spanner you have. i think if you Heat the end of the spanner red hot with blow tourth and quench it in water a few times this will make it hard but brittle. so it shouldn't flex on the flats of the braek pipe nuts. only thing is it might break.
But don't take my word for it they people on here that do metal stuff for a living, ask them a question about it.
Bye for Now!