General Forged Pistons and Rods Upgrade Discussion Thread
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Anyone want in on a Stroker Kit that i'm sourcing from the USA ..Originally Posted by Nutter_John
Same hereGotta watch this space...
I am doing a little rebuild myself at the moment...Nothing major...
Side note: How easy is it to attach Td04's on to the 6A13TT's ?
I think td04's would be a better option for most people than td05's, considering how they spool on an evo I doubt you'd get a serious whack of boost until 4500rpm, which is unacceptable for me. I'd prefer a more modern ball bearing turbo such as a gt2554r that is still capable of 300kw atw from two turbos, but is going to spool at 3000rpm.
Sorry mate, 2am er this morning! I was gonna post yesterday and i typed it all out, but then i had my dyno slot pulled fwd an hour so i didnt have time to finish it! Then when i got back, a scooby engine to drag out, a camblet on an evo 8 and a Diamate with a power steering tensioner gone!
By the way, Diamante's! Somebody sunk my battleship!
Cheers,
Ben.
td04's are regularly hitting 150-160kw atw each, which is more than enough for me, the reason I want to go with gt2554r's is that they are ball bearing and should spool sooner.
Ben - are any of the DR650 or DR800 turbo's similar to a gt2554r and are available in a ball bearing model?
Yes and no.
The DR650's are just a std mitsu TD04 housing and they are not available as ball bearing.
The DR800 and up are all TD05 garrett based turbos with various hybred wheels.
The DR1000 and 1200 are available as DBB.
I imagine the 800 could be done as a DBB, but i believe the cost of the centre housing is about US$1000 alone.
Cheers,
Ben.
id be keen on tdo4 setup,
whats the est. price on this?
and witch tdo4s will it be designed for? (off what car? etc.)
ben - yeah thats too much, gt2554r's are a better option. what are your opinions on them?
Have you thought of putting the crank and rods though cryogenics?
I know some research has been done on this..and secret squirrel tells me its used in Formula 1.
I believe if you nitride a crank this is done with alot of heat and in a high nitrogen atmosphere causing a very thin layer of hardened surface,but can cause the crank to bend and might require straightening.
Freezing the same components in liquid nitrogen will go all the way though with no bending and completely changes the molecular structure to a smoother harder metal..
It can produce results of +20% harder and is not as expensive as it sounds.
Apparently you can do almost any metal too...so discs,blocks,head etc can all be treated.
I got some magazine around somewhere and if i can over the weekend i`ll scan it and post up.
Hmmmm..... Thats sounds pretty cool actually.
I'd be interested if anyone knows if there is somewhere in NZ that is doing this.
For us NZ fellas interested in this, I emailed frozensolid and they returned this link for a place here that dies this process.
http://www.subzero.net.nz/index.php
Finally got my rods and pistons through. I will get you a quote for them as soon as I can.
Rich.
Richard Batty
2.5ltr V6 Turbo FTO
Thanks Richard
They are slightly different design and smaller tails so the larger rods dont have any clearence problems, and slightly deeper crowns.
what sort of rings are you going for?, did they come with pins etc
Updating Soon!! 1998 Legnum VR4, fully serviced every 4500 miles. Fully Amsoil'd. Falken 453's, EVO 8 FQ320 rear diff.
JE Pistons with JE Pro Seal rings.
Very nice, they look V good, were they a special or did they have something close that they machined, or are off the shelf for the VR4??, (how much?)
So shiny...... almost a waste to put them in the engine and get them dirty lol
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