spark plug gaps

[spm01]

i have tried searching for plug gaps for the vr4 but can't really find anything on them. I believe the standard gap is 1.1 but is this right? Only running standard boost with an airfilter so i dont think i need to close the gap but if someone can confirm for me please.

[peter thomson]

Standard gap is .8mm

[spm01]

Standard gap is .8mm

.8mm it is then.thanks

[Davezj]

I am not 100% sure that is right.

I was under the impression that 1.1mm was standard spec, and modified (uping the boost) close the gap to 0.8mm to make spark intensity greater for the denser fuel/air mix.

but i could be wrong.
Please get a few more opinions on this as i am no expert.

[peter thomson]

Kieran mentioned in one of my previous posts that the 3000gt VR4 is 1.1 and our VR4 0.8 when I was tracing a misfire .

[spm01]

can any1 else help with this please?

Peter,r u running higher boost or standard? And hav u set your plugs to .8mm

[peter thomson]

can any1 else help with this please?

Peter,r u running higher boost or standard? And hav u set your plugs to .8mm

My plugs are .8mm and I'm running higher boost now. PM Kieran and I'm sure he will confirm the gap if he does not notice the thread

[Kieran]

The Standard Gap is 0.8mm. No ifs or buts. However there is a lot of confusion on this subject.

The 1.1mm confusion is from two factors...

You walk into your local parts factor and ask for a set of plugs for a 1997 Galant VR-4.

Person behind desk opens his NGK or Denso Book. Turns to Mitsubishi and looks for Galant and doesn't see VR-4. They then look for VR-4. They end up looking at the following entry:

"3000GT / GTO / 3000GT VR-4"

This lists the NGK PFR6J-11 as the factory fitment. They give you a set of these. They're pre-gappped to 1.1mm.

The other scenario is this....

You look in your owners manual and see that NGK PFR6J plugs are the standard fitment.

You go to order a set of PFR6J plugs and are presented with PFR6J-11 plugs, as that is more commonly available in the UK. However, the PFR6J is gapped to 0.8, the PFR6J-11 is gapped to 1.1mm.

[Robotnik123]

What happens if you run a VR-4 with a 1.1mm gap in its plugs?

I've heard it stutters under boost, but what about a stock standard car running normal boost pressure? Any other ill effects?

I think I'll check my spark plug gaps this weekend - I had new plugs fitted approx 18 mths ago by a mechanic, but have no idea what plugs or plug gap they'd have used.

[Kieran]

The first time I changed the plugs on my VR-4, I found that PFR6J-11s were in there - So on a standard car they seem to be okay. Certainly mine was, though I did notice that changing plugs increased mid range shove. Not sure what would happen on a boosted car - I imagine if you're running high boost that the pressure could well fluff out the spark.

[gee118]

Problem!!!
I was getting two recalls done at the main stealers so I decided (stupidly) that I'd get them to change the plugs as well (at €176 labour charge ~£140).
I bought 6 Laser Platinum PFR6J-11's and gapped them to 0.8mm exactly.

Brought the 6 to Tynan Motors on the N7 in Dublin, Ire.
I was on the phone to the guy the next day asking when i could pick the car up, he said everything was going well, but because i'm changing the plugs they have to change some settings somewhere, I wasn't really listening to him but i think it may have been timing or something which i'm pretty sure they shouldn't have to change, right?

Anyway, the car stutters like mad under boost now and the idle's a bit off in that it won't stay at one level but cough a bit every so often.

When I asked for my old plugs back, they said they no longer had them.

So I'm wondering; Did I buy the right plugs?
Did they put in the right plugs?
Did they change the front three and not the back? I' haven't checked as of yet.
How do I go about getting them to fix it without them blaming my plugs and asking for the rip off labour charge again!?

Thanks in advance for any thoughts

[Subaru ETA]

id be checking that all the pipework is tight and that the manifold isnt leaking

[gee118]

Thanks Subaru ETA

The pipework is tight alright.
Is there a right way (read easy) to check if the manifold is leaking?

Are there no other opinions on the spark plugs?

[Roberto]

Hi Gee,

I've used Tynan's before, never had an issue with them.

Infact Tom has been more than helpfull and allways tries to solve any issues.
Have a chat with him and see what he has to say.
Ask what gap they did set them to.
The more info you can give them the better.
I've not used the NGK Platium before. But they should not be an issue.
Had Denso Iridium last time and NGK IRIDIUM IX SPARK PLUG - BKR7EIX this time.

I supplied the Denso's the first time to Tynan's, they may not know the car great, but are competant.

[jpnvr4]

Hi Gee,


Had Denso Iridium last time and NGK IRIDIUM IX SPARK PLUG - BKR7EIX this time.

I was under the impression that I was 2 get NGK Irddium IX BKR6EIX ....so which 1 is it really?

[gee118]

Well, whichever monkey mechanic they had on mine did an incredibly ****ty job.
They were also fixing the driver's door handle because it was broken to get in and steel my gps (and large denomination coins for the centre console
They put on a handle alright but no surround so now there's about a 2 mil gap between the handle and the door. The lock now is way stiffer than before and the inside handle no longer unlocks the door as it used to.

They also seemed to have removed something from the rear left handle to do this job because now that's held on by only one side!!

All round, i'm very displeased with them. I found super glue in the car afterward and think they were going to just glue the rear handle back but must have forgotten. Surely they shouldn't be raping other parts of the car to fix a handle that i paid 293euro to fit!

[Roberto]

I would seriously go back and have a chat with Tom, service manager and not Philip the service receptionist.

Be nice to him and explain and point out the things you are unhappy about.

I would be very surprised if he does not try his utmost to sort any issues.

If Tom s not around explain whats up, but get the big man to sort it.

Hope you get things right, let us know how you get on.

[gee118]

Thanks Roberto,
I was on to Tom today, he suspiciously seemed to know what i was talking about. He may have suspected my calling back.
I was hoping for a call back but no joy. I'll ring him again tomorrow.

The whole ordeal last week went through Philip who I developed a certain lack of respect for.



Does anyone have any other ideas as to what the problem with the driving under boost is (described above)?
I'm pretty sure that I experienced precombustion on two occasions when attempting wide open throttle. I'm very worried that I might have damaged something. I'm now driving around very scared to go over 3000 rpm at all

[Turbo_Steve]

My guess is that it's a knackered HT lead / coilpack.

These will often fail when "disturbed" to do the plugs on other cars, especially if the mechanic is overly ham-fisted (like me).

It seems logical that a change in plugs has resulted in plug-like symptoms (i.e. misfiring under load) that something further up the HT chain isn't right.

It could be something as laughably simple as a lead not being pushed back on properly, or some moisture in the plug bores.

Misfires feel serious, but as a general rule they're usually pretty simple.

[Nick Mann]

I was under the impression that I was 2 get NGK Irddium IX BKR6EIX ....so which 1 is it really?

You have the right part number for the standard VR4. The 7 is for one step colder. This is a good idea if you think detonation could become an issue - eg you are running higher boost and/or modified ignition.

I run BKR7EIX, but I also run boost and fuel control.