0-100 kph times

[Kenneth]

142KW at the wheels is about right for 9psi.

Checking the boost solenoid is a good idea, or just get a boost controller.

[bbunnys]

142KW at the wheels is about right for 9psi.

Checking the boost solenoid is a good idea, or just get a boost controller.

It is getting a boost controller put on that when they noticed there was something wrong with the solenoid. They say it should get up to about 170 kw at wheels on 12psi. Which I think will be all I need.

[bbunnys]

Does anyone know the formula to convert it back to the flywheel. I was doing 142 divided by .76 = 186 would that be right. Which would indicate it was 186kw at flywheel compared to 206kw which I think is what Mitsubishi say.

[Kenneth]

Does anyone know the formula to convert it back to the flywheel. I was doing 142 divided by .76 = 186 would that be right. Which would indicate it was 186kw at flywheel compared to 206kw which I think is what Mitsubishi say.

Sounds about right, you should get the factory rated output with another pound and a bit of boost.

for 170kw ATW you probably need closer to 13psi if you have a fairly standard exhaust system.

[bbunnys]

Here is the final dyno sheet. It was run on 7psi and 10psi. They said they couldnt safely get much more than that on the turbos. Im not sure what the torque should be but to me that looks way to much.

[Kenneth]

Here is the final dyno sheet. It was run on 7psi and 10psi. They said they couldnt safely get much more than that on the turbos. Im not sure what the torque should be but to me that looks way to much.

Take a look at my dyno sheet, print it out and take it to whoever said that.
What the dyno sheet does tell you is that you are in the correct ballpark for the boost you are running, but you could be getting more safely.



Granted, the power output is assisted by a decent exhaust system, but this was done on standard turbos and stardard ECU.

[Kenneth]

also, did you get a boost reference readout? I would have thought from your torque graph you are peaking at over 10psi, probably between 11psi and 12psi at 4500RPM... if you can hold that boost level to 5500 RPM you should be around the 170KW mark.

[bbunnys]

no thats all I got

[Kenneth]

no thats all I got

That's a shame because it would be good to see exactly what the boost is doing. From the torque graph it looks a bit lazy though.

[bbunnys]

Yea im almost keen to sell my car soon and a later model like this.

http://www.turners.co.nz/TabId/188/v...D/default.aspx

[bradc]

that isn't a bad car, but you might not get much more power out of it!

Hey Kenneth, what was your 2002 VR-4 chassis number? That car is 500525, I think your car was 5004xx something

[Kenneth]

Hey Kenneth, what was your 2002 VR-4 chassis number? That car is 500525, I think your car was 5004xx something

Don't remember... It may have been.

[d i c k i e s]

Yea im almost keen to sell my car soon and a later model like this.

http://www.turners.co.nz/TabId/188/v...D/default.aspx

Keep your car, save u $$$. Money you put into that could buy you some more goodies for your current car.

[Subaru ETA]

didnt think facelifts had woodgrain??

anywho, i wouldnt be buying it (altho it looks like a nice car).

keeps what you got and get some nice bits for it

[bradc]

it wouldn't have come with that woodgrain as stock, some silly japanese owner would have put it in

[d i c k i e s]

was gonna say that... for a 2002 model thought they had leather or cloth with the carbon dash.

[bbunnys]

My one actually looks better sitting on its 18's anyway but I think its getting abit tired. No doubt ill have another kid within a year so will have to get a big family car anyway :-)

[HollowPoint]

My one actually looks better sitting on its 18's anyway but I think its getting abit tired. No doubt ill have another kid within a year so will have to get a big family car anyway :-)

We've got two kids and had a Honda Oddysey until recently, we hated the damn thing, was completely pointless and we can actually get more stuff into the leggy anyway.

Back to the original topic(s)

Don't launch an auto/tiptronic, as others have said it will completely SHAG your torque converter and once thats shagged your cam and crank shafts won't be far behind. You'll actually run faster in an auto from an idle launch, hold the brake with your left foot, then let go of it and floor the gas, it'll respect you more Aside from that the autochange is probably not quite as quick but will be better for both the gearbox and engine as tiptronics are fine but you can still over-rev etc.

Stick Iridium Plugs in it, put the K&N looky like back on it but on the end of an extended pipe so that there is more space between the filter and the air flow meter, this will level out the airflow and it won't be so turbulent yet you'll still have the added airflow from a better filter and of course run it on 98Ron.

Tip - Do NOT buy your iridiums at Repco, get them on order at Super Cheap Auto instead, cost me $100 including delivery charge to store instead of $150 off the shelf at Repco.

[CANDEE]

Don't launch an auto/tiptronic, as others have said it will completely SHAG your torque converter and once thats shagged your cam and crank shafts won't be far behind. You'll actually run faster in an auto from an idle launch.

I have to respectfully dissagree with you on that comment.

I gained 1/2 a second on the 1/4 mile by launching @ 3k. Though I do agree that it can wreck components in the box(and attached to it). Also when im racing I also keep the car in drive.