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Thread: Staged Upgrades

  1. #21
    GT40-Steven's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by djb160
    As much as common sense would indicate brakes before boost. I don't think hardly anybody would actually do it, myself included.
    hehehe The first mod on this car was EVO VI disks, calipers and wheels + a 3'' cat-back and race/high flow kat. This was done by Kalle when he brought it to Sweden and I agree totally with his choice to put bigger brakes on to start with. The Tip Legnum weighs in at + 1700kg with driver and now it brakes like a Mini and no fading.
    Sure it's more fun to get pushed back into the seat then forward into the belt but I feel much better continuing the modding now that I know I will have no problem getting this tank to stop quick even if I'm way above legal speed.

    Brakes are performance mods specially for track days. SHorter stopping distance and good performance over several laps instead of getting brake fade at lap 5.

    Short version: Brakes should go in stage 1.

  2. #22
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    having owned a few imports id have to say the first thing anyone should do is give there car a realy good servise
    im talking at least 2 engine flush oil & filters , fuel treatments ,fuel filters , air filter , plugs ,gearbox and diff oils
    alot of people dont know or think about air quality in places like tokyo its very poor and can choke an engine
    it aint a vr4 but i gained a dyno proven 11bhp just from a good servies on my integra type r

  3. #23
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    ^ Yes people should do that. However that is maintenance and cannot, in any way, be considered a performance upgrade.

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    Unless something is already broken on the car and you will receive better performance from it. IE you have an auto gearbox and the car doesn't move. You install a manual gearbox and now it moves.

  5. #25
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    ye but you want the best posible base line from your upgrades or else whats the point spending a fortune

  6. #26
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    maybe the drilled n grooved rotors with ferodo ds2500 as a stage 1 or 2 upgrade , then brembos later then kad ap at about stage 6?

    wicked thread by the way , i was talkin to kieran about this the other week , as in what exactly is stage tuning ?

    but am happy now , and this confirms what i thought

    maybe the stages should be set as a level of involvement or common-ness of mods? i.e alot off ppl change bov early on and wheels in the earlt stage of having their car , cosmetic i know not performance............my 2p

  7. #27
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    Staging is usually based on the level of committment required to perform and sustain the mods. So 300bhp or so is definitely stage 1, stage 2 is probably 330bhp, stage 3 is going to be a huge step up with new turbos and injectors and ECU etc, and stage 4 will be going internal. Where you put brakes and stuff is highly debateable, and usually "stages" don't cover mods outside the engine bay for this exact reason. However, I think it's safe to say a minor brake upgrade should be in Stage 1 - Carbotechs or similar in stage 2 - Bigger calipers and discs and wheels in Stage 3.

    Also, where would we put Gearbox cooling for the ATs? Stage Two?

    Getting the car in good working order is "Stage 0". If you're writing a document, you'd do a Stage 0 which should get the car up to factory spec, and then go from there.

  8. #28

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    I think a Boost gauge is important and would be needed in Stage 1 if your using a MBC or Electronic your gonna need a gauge to set up for 1. and keep an eye on your psi making sure things are running right.

  9. #29
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    Thought I'd dust this thread off, as it hasn't been touched in a while

    Has anyone been able to attibute power figure brackets to stages? I know these will vary from car to car, but some indication of what is reasonable to expect would be useful to give some idea of the results of a rolling road session.

    I'll be running Stage 4 minus the hard pipes and down pipes (not doing these until I know where I'm going with turbos!), so an expectation would be good

    Oh, and FWIW, to me stages are really something in reference to engines, rather than vehicles. Agree fully with Turbo_Steve's comments about level of commitment. Its about that, and the types of mods that compliment each other, and would best be done as packages.

    There's a whole load of this that go with stages, but that aren't necessarily part of them - gauges, brakes etc, but I think it makes good sense to recommend these!
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  10. #30

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    Assuming your car is a healthy 206kw 363nm car, then the first stage should take you to about 225kw with 410-430nm of torque depending on how high you ramp up the boost

    Stage 2 would be up to around 235-240kw and 430-450nm

    Stage 5 depending on ECU choice could see you anywhere between 250 and about 280kw, with an easy 480-550nm of torque assuming you are getting around fuel cut.
    Last edited by bradc; 05-11-2009 at 05:41 AM.
    If I'm replying to your thread and helping you out, it is because I like you and want to help out your VR-4 ownership. No other reason

  11. #31
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    OK, so I should be looking to be near the bottom half of that range for stage 4 (around 250kW - 340 BHP for the Brits ), with a stock ECU (ECU is listed on the first page as stage 5)?

  12. #32

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    Sorry ignore that, I typed 4th but meant 5th.

  13. #33
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    Nick do not believe a single figure that Brad has put against those stages , the guys in NZ have some weird and wonderfull way of getting huge numbers for very little work . And no I'm not suggesting that they are cheating or anything it is the way it is .

    For a uk car expect around 310- 325 ish @ stage 5 with around 350 ft/lbs


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  14. #34

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    Water goes down the plughole t'other way so turbos work better and dynos are able to give bigger numbers...

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris g
    Water goes down the plughole t'other way so turbos work better and dynos are able to give bigger numbers...
    Heh!

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nutter_John
    Nick do not believe a single figure that Brad has put against those stages , the guys in NZ have some weird and wonderfull way of getting huge numbers for very little work . And no I'm not suggesting that they are cheating or anything it is the way it is .

    For a uk car expect around 310- 325 ish @ stage 5 with around 350 ft/lbs
    Cheers John

    Well, I'm not ready to move to NZ, so here's hoping Santa brings some tubs and an ECU!

  17. #37

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    Over here and in Aussie a stock car will do around 13.5-14.0s on the quarter. In England the stock cars tend to do 14.0-14.5s, I don't know why.

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by bradc
    Over here and in Aussie a stock car will do around 13.5-14.0s on the quarter. In England the stock cars tend to do 14.0-14.5s, I don't know why.
    Yep hence my point about not listening to the numbers down under , one day when I have lots of spare cash I will dyno a car here and ship it to NZ and get it done there and see what the difference is

  19. #39
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    i heard it was the climate and atmospheric pressure etc that gave them the advantage ?
    Last edited by rees; 05-11-2009 at 01:24 PM.

  20. #40

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    I'd like to add my experience of modding my old Evo VI.
    One of the first performance mods I did was change the stock front Brembos to Performance Friction discs and pads (cost £500).
    This mod got me down from 100mph to zero in only a couple of seconds with no fade, a serious confidence boost and will soak up future performance mods easily, within reason.
    After I did this 'boring' mod my car and my driving took on a new life.
    I think if you are looking at stage 3 or 4 mods then defo get the brakes sorted first.
    Stage 1 for me.

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