MAF sensor, relocate or not???

[1timeVR4]

Im currently planning my next project (exhaust still a go on thursday)

Im going to move the battery to the boot one way or another, so I can make a new airbox in its place. The only thing im not 100% about is weather to leave the MAF in the stock position or move it down past the fusebox with the filter.

Suggestions, problems, anyone please

[bradc]

Unless you are using a panel filter you can give up right away.

[AlanDITD]

Unless you are using a panel filter you can give up right away.

Whys that winston

[bradc]

Because a pod filter will greatly reduce power and fuel economy.

[AlanDITD]

Because a pod filter will greatly reduce power and fuel economy.

Was there any conclusive evidence of that?

I agree the pod located directly after the maf = poor performance..

As i have said many times - with the pod after a 90o bend as mine was it was fine - exactly the same 1/4mile times and no differnece in economy, and if there was it was negligable!

[1timeVR4]

The type of filter is irrelevant, the killer is the hot air in the engine bay.

Unfortunately some short japanese chap had already removed all the stock air box and inlet so Im left with a HKS mushroom filter bolted to the MAF.

I have to seperate the hot engine bay air from the filter either way and a fresh air supply is a must, as far as I see it the most sensible way is to use the battery space.

I know some of you have done this already, im just unsure if moving the MAF will affect the running. Or will extending the filter inlet pipe best part of a foot toward the headlight mess things up aswell.

Experience is what im after here folks.........

[bradc]

Actually no you are wrong. The type of filter is the single most important thing pertaining to the performance of a VR-4 and is the primary reason why people lose power in a VR-4. If you do not understand why then you should not be doing this at all before doing a lot more research.

[Kieran]

The type of filter is irrelevant, the killer is the hot air in the engine bay...

Erm - No. The type of filter is VERY relevant. Brad is right here. If one thinks about the amount of air in CFM the car will ingest when you set off, coupled with the air rushing into the engine bay, the whole 'hot air' issue becomes much less important.

The big thing though is the way the MAF works. Mitsubishi use a Karman Vortex sensor arrangement - there's an explanation here:

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h34.pdf

They rely on smooth, laminar airflow to give an accurate metering of incoming air mass, and that's where pods cause problems as they create too much turbulence in the air stream - More than the honeycomb grid in the front of the MAF can smooth. This has the knock-on of making the MAF misread at some (or all) load points. Power reduction and/or reduction in fuel economy are the oft-reported issues. Pod filters CAN make them breathe better at the top-end, but the trade off elsewhere usually outweighs the gain.

I am sure there IS a way to make a pod work successfully in all areas on a VR-4, I just haven't seen a way yet.

Now - As to your question, if you move the MAF... It'll still work, provided (if you do so) your wiring is extended well, with good soldering and sheathing. But give careful consideration to your filter arrangement first.

Hope that helps!

[bradc]

You know something is true when both myself and Kieran agree on something

[Kieran]

You know something is true when both myself and Kieran agree on something

[1timeVR4]

The type of filter is irrelevant

Irrelevant to my particular question I meant folks, jeez do I feel small


I have no stock airbox arrangement at all, im just inducting warm engine bay air at the moment. If I were to use a panel filter Id have to re-create the original box surely?? I bet they're like chickens teeth

[bradc]

They do come up fairly regularly, probably once a week or every two weeks.

[Kieran]

Irrelevant to my particular question I meant folks, jeez do I feel small

Sorry pal - didn't mean to knowledge-bash you there! Yeah, in your situation, the best you can do is to concentrate on cold air (as you say!) and see if you can smooth out the airflow... Turbo_Steve has postulated that adding a pipework bend between the pod and the MAF might be a way to do it - But untested as far as I'm aware.

[AlanDITD]

K i have posted a way to do it numerous times now....it works and there is no loss in power certainley over a 1/4mile anyway!

I dont know if pete ever put the standard air box back on it for his feedback to!

[pedro]

K i have posted a way to do it numerous times now....it works and there is no loss in power certainley over a 1/4mile anyway!

I dont know if pete ever put the standard air box back on it for his feedback to!

Well i didnt crash it till i put the standard air box back on it

TBH i didnt notice any difference performance-wise between before and after i changed it at all.
But then i didnt measure it like alan did on a 1/4 mile. Fuel economy seemed to be equally as bad with both situations. I recon it worked fine....

[AlanDITD]

can i have it back? Ill pay for postage

[pedro]

Dunno what the postage would be like on a whole vr4?!?!

[AlanDITD]

haha..i mean the air pipe thingy

[pedro]

yeah sure thing bud whats your address?
Text me if you still got me number. If not its 079xxxxxxxx

Sorry for

[AlanDITD]

erm i dont matey changed phones drop me a pager