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I've never had a clearance problem with the 20 filter and a sandwich plate?
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1st 1998 PFL LEGNUM VR4
2nd 1999 RALLIART FL LEGNUM VR4 EVO 8 BREMBO'S AND EVO 9 ENKEI ALLOYS 26/02/11
PLX WIDEBAND AFR CONTROLLER & GAUGE 05/03/11
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D2 RACING COILOVERS FITTED 12/03/11
EBC REDSTUFF PADS FRONT AND REAR 19/03/11
MOCOL 10 ROW OIL COOLER FOR THE G/BOX 26/03/11
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AYC LIGHT BARS ADDED TO CLOCK 14/05/11
SWAPPED 45,000MILE ENGINE FROM LEGNUM 1 TO LEGNUM 2 13/06/2011
MAGNECOR 8MM LEADS AND DENZO IRIDIUM PLUGS GAPPED TO 0.8MM 13/06/2011
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SO FAR....
Ye same here, sambo plate & oil filter still leaves plenty of clearence
1998 Legnum VR4 Twin Turbo
17" Evo VII alloys in black
Comma 5.1 brake fluid
Full exhaust system with decat
Magnecor performance ignition leads
NGK BKR7EIX plugs
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Turbo timer
3 pillar pod with Boost, Oil temp & Psi gauges
John, I found I had to put ptfe tape in.
Proverbs 20:29
Yep, agree with that. PTFE tape a definite help, although it may seal okay without it.
I think that the threads are often tapered, but even then they seem to rarely form an oil tight seal without PTFE. I got into the habit of always using PTFE when putting sensors & bungs into a sandwich plate.
I used a small copper washer on all my oil relocation kit and on sensors then used a little ptfe tape on all the an joints. The person from japan that fitted my system used silicon which didnt really work while car is in bits ive stripped all the system and used new copper wasers or ptfe
Work of warning watch the seal on the sandwich plate they dont always seal!!
Thanks everyone all done now and looks all ok, just used th ptfe tape.
Has anyone had a problem with their sandwich plate threading? I recently bought a universal plate on ebay and the three blanking bolts wouldn't tighten fully but wasn't sure if they were meant too and on removing them completely ruined the thread. The sensor was also a bad fit but once again wasn't sure if it is meant to be a one time fitment and not mean for removal.
I've always used ptfe tape for those fittings as they tend to leak if not used
Ask a simple question, never receive an answer these days
i think the threads are 1/4" NPT which is a conical thread. so you do it up until you feel resistance and then stop and this should lock the threads together and make a seal.
if you over tighten this style of thread they tend to trash themselvles.
technically you should not need any tape on the threads as they should fully lock and seal, but i am with peter on this i always put a few wraps of ptfe tape round the threads before doing up.
Last edited by Davezj; 12-10-2017 at 09:58 PM.
Bye for Now!
OOps! Sounds like I may have trashed mine then. I was wondering why the blanking bolts didnt screw in fully and I over tightened the temp sensor as it didnt seem to have enough of the actual sensor showing through the other end to give a good reading. Fortunately the ebay seller is supplying me with another. Many thanks for the replies and help. P1040095.JPGP1040097.JPGP1040099.JPG
Has anyone had problems with oil temperature gauge readings ?
I finally fitted a digital micro oil temp gauge but am unsure if the gauge is broken, fitted incorrectly or that the sandwich plate and sensor is taking a mixed reading as its very close to the front turbo. The digital gauge gradualy flickers up from about 30 -100 . It then continues to rise from 100 and starts jumping to 150 and back to 101, 150 , 102, 150, 103 ...until finally reaching 150!
All oils and coolant are new and engine is in great condition so this isnt reflecting a true reading. My next step will probably be buying a cheap non digital gauge and see if the needle jumps up and down. Thank you in advance for any help on this issue.