[Battery to boot] Upgrading wiring for battery and alternator

[foxdie]

Hi all,

I've spent the last few hours now trawling the forum and I'm unable to find answers to the following questions, I've just bought several meters of 0 AWG / 54mm² cable and will be fitting it this weekend but need a few questions answering please

1. When running cable from battery to boot, is it possible to connect it directly to the fuse box?

I'd like to wire the 0 AWG positive wire straight into the fuse box to cut out the old positive battery wire but I can't find any information on this.

2. When doing battery-to-boot, is it necessary to take off the left wing off?

Is there an easier way to run 2 x 0 AWG cables than having to take the wing off like this to feed the cable between the cabin and the engine bay?

3. Is there any information on replacing the alternator positive wire?

I'd like to replace this with some fresh 2 AWG, again how can I replace the old wire, is there a howto?

4. Is there a way to secure a battery box to the bottom left of the boot?

I'd like to put the battery in front of the rear left (nearside in UK) lamp cluster.

5. What are the recommended grounding points to increase ground conductivity?

I'd like to make a grounding kit, what are the grounding points in the engine bay?

6. Should I bother running a ground cable alongside the power cable from the battery to boot?

From my perspective, there's a handful of things I can do here:

1. Ground the battery as close to the battery as possible
2. Ground the battery at multiple points along it's trip to the engine bay
3. Just run the ground cable to the engine bay and connect it to the old battery negative terminal (or maybe replace it?)

Thanks in advance

[kiteman]

Jason, I can help with 2 of your questions.
there no need to remove the left wing, just remove the left side indicator.
This will give you an almost direct line of sight to the grommet, the main wiring
loom passes through. just nick a small cut in the grommet and feed the positive cable through.

When I fitted my battery to the rear I simply picked a spot close to the battery, to fix the
earth to and have not had a problem.

Hope this is of some help.
Tommie

[swinks]

Questions 4 and 6.
- I've bought myself marina kit for battery. Box like enclosure, you can fit almost anywhere. But I reckon, place where spare wheel sits is the best location.
- No, you shouldn't be bothered. Just find any good earthing point in a boot.

[Humpty's Revenge]

Hi all,

I've spent the last few hours now trawling the forum and I'm unable to find answers to the following questions, I've just bought several meters of 0 AWG / 54mm² cable and will be fitting it this weekend but need a few questions answering please

1. When running cable from battery to boot, is it possible to connect it directly to the fuse box?

I'd like to wire the 0 AWG positive wire straight into the fuse box to cut out the old positive battery wire but I can't find any information on this.

The easier way is to join the 2 ends via a distribution block like I showed you as you also have to connect the ignition wire to that as well

2. When doing battery-to-boot, is it necessary to take off the left wing off?

Is there an easier way to run 2 x 0 AWG cables than having to take the wing off like this to feed the cable between the cabin and the engine bay?

You don't need to take of the wing just remove the 10mm bolts & couple of screws to the splash guard underneath the wing then you can get access to feed the cable through to the engine bay

3. Is there any information on replacing the alternator positive wire?

I'd like to replace this with some fresh 2 AWG, again how can I replace the old wire, is there a howto?

4. Is there a way to secure a battery box to the bottom left of the boot?

I'd like to put the battery in front of the rear left (nearside in UK) lamp cluster.

The battery/box will have to go either on the left or the best place is in the spare wheel well, what I used was the original battery tray from the engine bay simply because in un-bolts & already has the battery clamps.
Best way is to drill holes & bolt it in but this might not be possible with the marine style box? But I don't know this until I see it.

5. What are the recommended grounding points to increase ground conductivity?

I'd like to make a grounding kit, what are the grounding points in the engine bay?

6. Should I bother running a ground cable alongside the power cable from the battery to boot?

From my perspective, there's a handful of things I can do here:

1. Ground the battery as close to the battery as possible
2. Ground the battery at multiple points along it's trip to the engine bay
3. Just run the ground cable to the engine bay and connect it to the old battery negative terminal (or maybe replace it?)

The shorter the earthing cable the better, so bolting it to the boot floor with a clean par will do. I used the spare wheel bolt hole which has been absolutely fine, you will need the connector properly clamped to the cable for best results.

All above are tried, tested & being used on my car Jas.


Thanks in advance

I've answered all I've done in the quote above Jas.

[foxdie]

there no need to remove the left wing, just remove the left side indicator.

Fantastic, thanks

I've bought myself marina kit for battery. Box like enclosure, you can fit almost anywhere. But I reckon, place where spare wheel sits is the best location.

I've got a marine battery box for the purpose, I just don't know how to secure it down. I'd like to be able to keep my spare wheel if possible.

The easier way is to join the 2 ends via a distribution block like I showed you as you also have to connect the ignition wire to that as well

Yes, but not the tidiest way, plus after 14-15 years I would like to remove that ageing cable if I can

The shorter the earthing cable the better, so bolting it to the boot floor with a clean par will do

Okay, I understand that, however the main negative battery lead in the engine bay is starting to go green, I would like to have stripped all that out, put in fresh cable so I've got solid reliable grounding that'll last another 15 years

I want to replace all the power / ground wiring in the engine bay with fresh cable so it looks neater and reduces the risk of ground issues, eventually one day the cars gonna be pushed harder (ViPEC, larger injectors, larger tubs etc) so I need ignition to be flawless.

[VR457]

For Q3 what's wrong with leaving it where it is and just supplementing it with your own fresh cable?

I don't quite understand how much current you would need at what efficiency to make all this effort. Most of the SPL crowd just run multiple wires, distribution blocks and sometime split charging for their needs. I run 120A continuous easy with a single 0 Gauge. Short term you can run much more current than that with same setup.

[foxdie]

For Q3 what's wrong with leaving it where it is and just supplementing it with your own fresh cable?

Because I've no idea how long the existing cable will last, it's already 15 years old and I'm about to move from a 80A alternator to a 120A one, I'm worried the extra load may cause issues.

Also, after seeing what's happened to Karl melting his alternator bolt off (AFAIK he left the old wire on and augmented it with new wire) I'd rather just put fresh 2 AWG on there straight to the fuse box

[Humpty's Revenge]

At the mo Jas time might not be on your side for that day mate, but there's nothing stopping you/us from renewing the cable after it's all fitted. Lets get the job done then see what time is left, what you reckon?

[foxdie]

At the mo Jas time might not be on your side for that day mate, but there's nothing stopping you/us from renewing the cable after it's all fitted. Lets get the job done then see what time is left, what you reckon?

Oh I appreciate we may not get all this done on Friday, this is just a general discussion for the end result

[VR457]

Karl blew his alt because the + wire shorted onto the chassis. As you might have seen from the photos i put up, that spot is very close to bare metal. I do hope you can get a 2 gauge in there. Fuse it before the battery if you want or run the wire straight from there to the boot and fuse it there instead.

The stock wire might be weakening over time but in practice it only loses about 0.5 volt more under engine heat than would a new wire. You would be better off trying to get heat out of that area to help avoid heat soak. The battery would benefit too.

[Humpty's Revenge]

I did mine 2 years ago with the following:-

Battery (brand new) located in the boot using the original battery tray with the battery clamps

That intern was bolted to the boot floor (spare wheel) then using the same 12mm cable bolting that direct to the spare wheel bolt hole using a proper clamping tool on the wire.

Both terminals have gold connectors to the battery.

then there's around 18"inches or so from the terminals to the fuse box with adequate ampage fuse

The wire then runs down the passenger side of the car within the plastic cupping which runs along with the other wires through it, this is then tapped to the plastic cupping for safety

The wire then goes through the rubber grommet on the side of the inner kick panel

That then runs up in to the engine bay but right on that corner I used old hosing to protect from rubbing

Finally going straight in to the distribution block which is screwed to the fuse box cover with the other end going in one side the ignition on the underside

This has been fine for that 2 year period. If Jason wants it run any differently then no problems.

[foxdie]

Steve, how good are you with a camcorder?

I'd like to film / document installation so we can make a video for the club on how to do things like this

[Humpty's Revenge]

Steve, how good are you with a camcorder?

I'd like to film / document installation so we can make a video for the club on how to do things like this

FILM, CAMERA, ACTION...........You point you focus you push fame button..............how hard can it be? As that song by MCR "Famous last words".

[VR457]

You in safe hands here Jase! Go with what Steve says, makes sense to me!

[NLduffyNL]

I dont know if it helps but ive done it a few month's ago
Still got a 2 pictures:

-The original grounding thats from the chassis to the battery is still there (only cutted the piece from the chassis to the battery gone, but its still bolted on the chassis)

-In the front ive cutted the cables that go to the fusebox, put it in a splitfuse (as i call it , it wil proberly have a other name) and go's to 1 cable

- that cable is my 35kwadraad (sorry dont know the english word but its the size of my cable) and go's to my boot where it's fused again and then go's on the battery

-The -cable is from the battery to the boot that normally holds your sparetyre.

Foto-TR7CMQML.jpgFoto-ARYIGKOQ.jpg

[Nick Mann]

I'm not planning to do this to my car, but if I was I would want 2 things I haven't seen anyone talk about - an easy way to connect jumpleads and a quick way of disconnecting the battery. Potentially both of those could be done near to the stock battery location.

[kiteman]

Heres a link to my post of when I put the battery behind the passenger seat (its a 2 seater track car)
Might be of some help.
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthr...version-photos.

Regarding Nicks mention of jump leads, I just remove the flare cover.
Also I fitted an Isolator switch and a 125amp fuse at the battery positive link, to be extra sure.
I'll search to find the photos of the last 2 items I mentioned.
They are on a post somewhere.

[Nick Mann]

I like the isolator switch idea. Doesn't the fuse blow when you crank the car? From other posts the cranking current is significantly higher than 125A.

I have needed to jump start my car when it was properly packed full of luggage. It would be a nightmare to find you have to empty the whole car just to jump start it....

[foxdie]

I have an idea to address that Nick (jump starting), will show you on Friday

[thfelipeth]

i used the factory tray and put it inside a battery box. and its sitting on the left side of the boot.. i went through the floor right next to the box for the grounding. so the ground is directly on the chassie.. i didnt have to remove the left wing.. just remove the side indicator and you'll see the rubber casing protecting the loom.. cut into it and go through it. i ran the cable through the plastic trunking thats carried some cables to the back. not sure what they are.. anyway. just make sure you spray the ground cable under the car... maybe was overkill. anyway. i installed an airbox so next to it i installed a switch.. so if im in a dodgy area i can cut out power completely instead of just joining the cable. thats my 2 cents. i see alot of responses. so you'll be fine!