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Thread: Intercooler Pipes

  1. #1

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    Intercooler Pipes

    I have identified some leaks from my intercooler pipes, the main one is the piping going onto the throttle body. The hose looks too big for the pipe and looks as if someone has put a rubber adapter inside it to help seal it. But there is only a jubilee clip to hold it on and im loosing boost through it and it tends to pop off. Is there any other way around this as in alloy pipe with just a silicone hose? I am also finding a bit of air leaking from the idle control screw, maybe just need a new washer?
    1998 Legnum VR4 Twin Turbo

    17" Evo VII alloys in black
    Comma 5.1 brake fluid
    Full exhaust system with decat
    Magnecor performance ignition leads
    NGK BKR7EIX plugs
    Blitz Boost controller Low: 0.5 bar High: 0.9 bar
    Turbo timer
    3 pillar pod with Boost, Oil temp & Psi gauges

  2. #2
    Wodjno's Avatar

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    By the sound of your description, you have. The correct inlet elbow and seal. Possibly it us worn, or the clamp is not man enough? This is common on VR4's.
    Take some pics. If it is mullered, then there maybe a member on here with a good used 1 u can replace it with or. U can get them new from www.camskill.com.
    But I would advise also to fit a better clamp(mikalor style) or similar.


    Cheers

    Wodj

    Ps.. regarding idle screw. Ptfe tape around the thread should sort that.

  3. #3

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    Yes the rubber insert seems to be in bits, would the likes of a tbolt clamp do the job on the hose? What diameter clamp do i need to get?

    http://www.apmotorstore.co.uk/hose-f...order=position

    Ye i sprayed some water on the idle screw and got bubbles, does it just screw all the way out so i can reseal it? Mate is a plumber n said he should have some small enough washers for it if i need them.

  4. #4

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    i think im running 2.5" silicone joiner off the T/B and a alloy pipe with a 90degree angle on it.. the 2.5" joiner only just fitted on my throttle.. id get the size confirmed before heading down this road. i have also (before getting the alloy pipe) used the silicone joiner in place of the original rubber... trimming it so it is the same as the factory item.. then just forced the factory plastic elbow over it (its very tight with the 3 layer silicone) and T-bolt clamped it on! never popped off again and kept the hose nipples for boost control and the other thingy.

  5. #5

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    Instead of me going and getting an alloy pipe and silicone hose would i get away with cutting the original bend and just replacing it with a 90degree silicone hose to which i can clamp onto tb & onto the original hose just before the two little pipes?

    Here is what my little adpter for the tb looks like at the moment.
    Last edited by jjayokocha; 08-05-2011 at 06:52 PM.

  6. #6

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    YUK!!!! basically buy a silicone hose with the same internal diameter.. then cut it down to the same width as that rubber 1. place it on the T/B then put the plastic pipe over the top of it. then clamp it..


    if you try to silicone over the plastic pipe. it will leak from the texture of the plastic.

  7. #7
    Gly's Avatar

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    our TB is 2.75 OD, meaning you need a 2.75ID joiner.

  8. #8

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    good news is i went to a local company that builds rads and intercoolers. They are supplying me with a 90degree hose and a new pipe with both nipples along with new tbolt clamps so collecting in the morning.

    I asked about making me a full hard pipe kit so hes gna price that for me aswell with the option of doing a group buy if anyone interested.

  9. #9
    Colin Wiltshire's Avatar

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    Sounds good on hard pipe kit,

  10. #10

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    NICE!!

  11. #11

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    That's the pipe & hose kit they made up for me to replace the std tb unit & rubber insert. Total cost for pipe, hose & 3 tbolt clamps came to around £50 or bit less. I didnt mind paying this as i cnt see any future problems with it as the std replacement is same price but sure enough the rubber insert will fail again at some point.

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