Swapped my auto box no drive in D

[Davezj]

Well after a let of work i managed to swap my auto gear box. what a pain that was. i did suspension upgrade and brake upgrade at the same time.

well as the title says i have the following,

1. no drive in D.
2. tiptronic works up and down gears fine (1st a little jerky when it engages)
3. R reverse works fine.
4. N neutral fine.
5. drive off in tip 1st gear change to 2nd, knock it over in to D and it changes up and down the box fine. up till 1st is seleected at a junction and no drive again.
6. sometimes the car will not start if in P park, change to N neutral and it starts fine. but sometimes it will start in P park.

A little background on my situation,
i bought a PFL auto box about 4 years ago as a spare, from a PFL car being broken, a 1997 i think with 60K on the clock.
i have an R reg 1998 PFL. you can see where i am going with this.

and Yes i checked the ECU's and i have 2 very nice plastic covered ECU's both engine and gear box.
so the auto box ECU is not compatable with the auto box i have fitted. (as found out some years ago by Peter Tompson and his brother kiethport i believe, so credit where credit is due )

My next quest is for a metal case auto box ECU from a PFL.

ANYONE GOT ONE!
CASH WAITING! (and yes i am shouting, after the weekend i have had)

the only thing i am not sure about is point 6. why would it do this and is it part of the ECU mismatch.
any ideas

[Nutter_John]

Deffo sounds a mis match between the GB and ECU Dave , the Park issue is due to the alignment of the arm on the top of the box , just need to line up the hole in the selector and arm then tighten the nut on the cable so that it is level

I don;t have any auto ecu's but I know that Atik had one in Foxdies car on Saturday which belongs to Amesh

[Beastlee]

...the Park issue is due to the alignment of the arm on the top of the box , just need to line up the hole in the selector and arm then tighten the nut on the cable so that it is level ...

I've looked before and never found an actual diagram or photo of this. Do you know where I can find one as I find mine a little sticky cming out of P into D sometimes.

[Nutter_John]

not got a diagram but will try to describe it better

put the car into n
remove the snorkle if fitted
look down onto the white selector box on top of the gearbox (just under the battery tray )
there is a black metal arm that the selector cable connects into and the arm is shaped like a V with the pivot being connected to the top of the selector rod going into the gearbox
with the car in N the hole that is in the V shaped arm should line up with the hole in the plastic selector box
if it doesnt then under the 10mm bolt holding the cable onto the V arm and move it until the holes line up , now tighten the nut back up and check again

when it is lined up you will be able to start the car in P or N

must admit it can be a pain getting it right without removing the battery and tray , even then it sometimes is not 100% all the time

[Beastlee]

Thanks John, precise and concise. I'll try it later this week as I suspect mine is just slightly out.

[psbarham]

I have 2 auto ecu's I can post over to you to try.

[Davezj]

I have 2 auto ecu's I can post over to you to try.

Hi Paul,
thanks for the swift offer mate. That is most helpful.
are they metal case ones?
This is the part number of the one that was in my old PFL and that was a 1996
MD761988
i have just posted a wanted thread, but if you have one i am look for then i will close it.

[Davezj]

not got a diagram but will try to describe it better

put the car into n
remove the snorkle if fitted
look down onto the white selector box on top of the gearbox (just under the battery tray )
there is a black metal arm that the selector cable connects into and the arm is shaped like a V with the pivot being connected to the top of the selector rod going into the gearbox
with the car in N the hole that is in the V shaped arm should line up with the hole in the plastic selector box
if it doesnt then under the 10mm bolt holding the cable onto the V arm and move it until the holes line up , now tighten the nut back up and check again

when it is lined up you will be able to start the car in P or N

must admit it can be a pain getting it right without removing the battery and tray , even then it sometimes is not 100% all the time

Great info there john i didn't align anything up on the selector so that might explain the issue i am having, nice one.

And yes it was the auto box that i got off you ages ago, i knew it would come in handy at some point.

[Nutter_John]

I did wonder if it was that box , bloody hell that was a long time ago

Got the Downpipes for you by the way , will bring em up next time i'm that way

[Davezj]

you are an absolute gent.
there is no time frame for me with the down pipes, only if you have time to meet up when you are next up this way for family visiting., etc.
i just have to get hold of a mid section to allow me to have a spear standard exhaust, so i can start chopping and welding my other one piece monstrosity.

[Nutter_John]

standard mid section ?

[Davezj]

your going to tell me you have one knocking about the lockup arn't you?

[horndog]

never found an actual diagram or photo of this. Do you know where I can find one .....

Checkout the pdf's for the Auto transmision section 23 pages 49 and 50 - Is that the same?
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthr...ual-PDF-s-x-26

[Davezj]

that's the charlie, i will use to set mine up properly, nice one.

[peter thomson]

We're still running the metal cased ecu in keith's car .It will sort out the D issue but the gear change will be jerky/sluggish.

[Davezj]

We're still running the metal cased ecu in keith's car .It will sort out the D issue but the gear change will be jerky/sluggish.

how come you say the gear shift will be jerky/slugish my old PFL VR4 had realy good smooth changes and that was a metal case ecu?
is the FL ecu supposed to be better gear changes ,e.g. quicker.

or do you just mean until it relearns the shift points.

[peter thomson]

They are not compatible. The gear shifts have never settled down with the preface box and FL engine ecu in Keiths car. When we have time a gearbox to match the original ecu is being fitted. We tried a few combinations of ecu as I had quite a few variations back then but none worked as they should

[Nutter_John]

Peter did you try a PFL ecu with the PFL Auto ecu ?

[peter thomson]

Yes used the ecu's from my car plus other FL and late 98P/FL ecu as Dave probably has and even a Mines

[Davezj]

They are not compatible. The gear shifts have never settled down with the preface box and FL engine ecu in Keiths car. When we have time a gearbox to match the original ecu is being fitted. We tried a few combinations of ecu as I had quite a few variations back then but none worked as they should

Peter you say you swapped the engine ECU did you mean that or did you mean swapped the auto box ecu?
as i was of the opinion the it was the auto box autob ecu that were not compatable.
or is it the metal case pfl ecu will fix the no drive in D issue, but changes will still be jerky due to the FL engine ecu in combination with the PFL auto ecu.
If so, then i can confirm this should be a an accecptable combination as i used to run that configuration in my old VR4 and the shifts were silky smooth.