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Thread: Confused's Long-Term Anglia Project

  1. #201
    Nick Mann's Avatar

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    Are you sure it was a 427? Back in the late 60s they were good for sub 12 quarter miles.

  2. #202
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    The Cobra is the reason we have speed limits. After a quick flatout run down the motorway there was such public outrage that the government envoked the national speed limit.

    You sure it wasn't a replica with perhaps a Rover V8?
    '96 Galant VR4 manual
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    '97 Legnum vr4
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    Now breaking for spares

    More to come, eventually.

  3. #203

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    Actually it was the RAC and the AA that said it was outrageous and it was a campaign by the Daily Mail that got it put in place.
    Caroll Shelby was a legend and a genius!

  4. #204

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    I know it's a little early, but you doin with the Interior? Ultimately, what are you going to use the car for?
    By the way, I recall in the early 70's there was this fad of covering Angle boxes in Velevetex, purple mostly.
    Live, love, learn but most of all.... Plan.

  5. #205
    Confused's Avatar

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    The interior will be based around the design and colours of the seats. It'll be a road and show car mostly, so it'll have some kind of proper interior with door cards and carpets!

  6. #206

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    if you require any assistance please feel free to give me a shout. CJ

  7. #207
    Confused's Avatar

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    More wiring! More headaches!

    Other than general tidying and removal of extra length, the main thing that needs sorting now wiring wise is for about the only electrical systems left on the vehicle - lights, horn and wiper!

    So - onto those then! Wiring for horn + front lights was identified, tidied, routed, loomed and affixed:



    With a nice connector plug ready to make removal of the fibreglass flip front (which has been ordered, awaiting delivery) as simple as possible.

    And the rear lights were dug out of storage, bulbs checked and replaced where necessary, and wired up, including tidying up and re-looming the run of wires to the rear:


  8. #208
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    Oh yeah!!!

  9. #209
    Confused's Avatar

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    I start off this time with some braking news...

    This just in: Capri 2.8 vented discs fitted!



    Next up, a one-piece fibreglass front from Team de Ville. A small amount of trimming was required to make it fit, as it comes supplied with the lips down the back edge of the wings which tuck around the A pillar behind the front of the doors. As I wanted to be able to flip this open without needing to have the doors open, these lips were removed.



    And then, with grill, headlights and surrounds fitted. Just left to fit the bumper, and indicators, and then do the wiring.



    It's finally looking more like a car!!

  10. #210

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    That looks so sweet and stock love the stelth look hope your gona fit a rear facing video camera to catch the looks on there faces lol

  11. #211
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    Oh that is looking GOOOOOOD!

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by Confused View Post
    I start off this time with some braking news...
    Groan!

  13. #213

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    Looking good - but just one question... are those brakes going to be sufficient to stop the power you're putting down in a short distance? They look to be a fair bit smaller than the VR4 discs.

  14. #214
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    The Anglia will weigh ~500-600kg less than a VR4 (about 1000kg total)! The reason I fitted the vented Capri discs (replacing the solid Escort discs) was for the improved heat dissipation. At a later stage, I may look at changing the calipers from the twin-pot ones to some larger, 4-pot ones, which will give a bit more pad-disc area.

  15. #215
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    Looking good.
    The mighty Leedsnum has gone but the Airtrek mods will soon fill this space


    How To:Contact Committee or Moderators.

  16. #216
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    Following on from last time, I have now completed the wiring to the front end, with indicators, side repeaters and headlights now all wired up and working.


    When browsing this forum, I found @Nick Mann was selling MAP-ECU 2 - the next version of the MAP-ECU which I already have installed (the little box of tricks that allows removal of the MAF sensor) - the newer model adds a few new features - ignition timing control, two switchable maps, electronic boost control, air/fuel ratio adjustment, fuel cut removal, speed cut removal, and launch control.

    I paired this with a wideband O2 sensor/controller, which provides a very accurate air/fuel ratio to the MAP-ECU2, as well as a simulated narrowband output to the stock ECU.



    A standard narrowband O2 sensor as fitted to most vehicles operates by switching the output between 0v and 1v when the air/fuel ratio (AFR) goes either side of the stoichiometric point - the point at where all fuel is evenly burned with all of the available air - with petrol this is an AFR of 14.7, or lambda 1.00

    The narrowband O2 sensor is used by the ECU to adjust the amount of fuel - an input value of 0v means "add more fuel" and an input value of 1v is "less fuel" - under normal use, the standard ECU will adjust the fuelling to ensure that the input voltage from the O2 sensor is rapidly fluctuating between 0v and 1v - this keeps the engine around lambda 1.00

    This is shown by the following graph (graphs taken from the PLX website)



    The wideband O2 sensor gives a voltage output which is directly related to the AFR, typically from 0v to 5v. The PLX SM-AFR I have provides a linear output and can show the AFR from 10:1 to 20:1 (lambda 0.68 to 1.36), as demonstrated by the following graph (again, taken from the PLX website)



    When running under load, you may not want an AFR of 14.7 - you may want to run richer (more fuel), say at an AFR of 12 - with a narrowband O2 sensor, you have no way of telling what your AFR is, only that it's "rich" or "lean". With the wideband, I can monitor this via the MAP-ECU2, and adjust the fuelling accordingly to reach that target.

    The MAP-ECU2 came from another VR-4, and the configuration that's on it is much better than the one that came on the original MAP-ECU I had (which also came from a VR-4) - the new one idles even better, and the lag that I had when pressing the throttle has disappeared. Even just this change is worth the money spent on it, as it puts it a lot closer to what's needed, which will hopefully reduce the need for an immediate expensive tuning session!

    In addition to this, I received a nice package from ETB Instruments consisting of a 52mm fuel gauge, a 52mm temperature gauge, an 80mm electronic programmable speedometer and an 80mm tachometer.

    I am fitting these to a glove box lid, so I started by marking up and drilling out the necessary mounting holes:



    It was then time to fit the dials, and wire them up to a connector plug to allow easy removal from the rest of the wiring loom.



    The new speedometer is programmable so it can be used with a wide variety of speed sensors and can be programmed to suit your wheel/tyres, diff and gearbox - and any changes to any of these the speedometer can be reprogrammed very easily - if I had a mechanical speedometer, I'd need to send it off for recalibration if I ever made any changes.

    It also provides the following features:
    2 trip counters
    0-xxmph time (comes as default set as 0-60mph)
    1/4 mile time
    Max speed recall
    In built indicator lamps

    I also fitted a 3-spoke Momo steering wheel from an Evo 6, which is slightly smaller than the standard wheel from the VR-4, and placed the dials in place (but the glove box lid is not secured to the dash properly yet)



    Whilst I was fiddling with wiring and electronics, my dad was concentrating on welding, and we now have the passenger side rear suspension mount and floor completed, as well as the exhausts now properly mounted on cotton reel mounts, rather than suspended from bits of electrical wire.


  17. #217
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    Getting into the final stages of this epic build, keep it going & keep it coming!

  18. #218
    Confused's Avatar

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    I didn't put up any photos of the front end last time out, and although the wiring was done, it wasn't tidy, so, spent some time tidying up the remainder of the wiring, both on the front end, and under the dash, taping up any loose bit of wire! Over all, I must have used well over a roll and a half of insulating tape!



    Also, the key locks to secure the flip front in place, and some lengths of chain were added to limit how much it opens - this gives good access across to the top of the engine, without putting the front too close to the floor. The wiring was secured by fibreglassing some cable ties onto the inside of the front, which create loops to put a further cable tie through - meaning if I need to remove the wiring loom (for example for painting), I can easily do so, and re-attach it again at a later date.



    With the dash in finally (and the wiring loomed up, as mentioned earlier), I thought I'd take a photo of the gauges working - I've got about 1/8th tank of fuel, and it's ticking over nicely at just under 1250rpm.



    Additionally, some welding was tackled underneath.

    And finally...


  19. #219
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    Nice flipfront! The gauges are modern I think? But they look like they belong and fit very good in that gauge panel, cool! This front with the lights, it looks like some type of fish that I don't know the name of, but it looks pretty evil

  20. #220
    Confused's Avatar

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    First task was to remove the final bit of the chassis where it had started to go rotten - the rear cross member.

    This involved cutting out the existing metal, and we decided to graft in a 50x50x3mm box section - which will be way stronger than the original box section. I may well add a jacking point/towing eye to this in the future. This was grafted onto the existing chassis legs (which are no longer load bearing due to the changes in suspension), and brought round to meet up with the original rear panel.




    With the rear valance back in place - no visual differences from the rear.




    Moving forwards, the items that live in the boot are secured down - the battery is tied down, the straps for the fuel tank are secured to the floor, the vacuum tank for the servos is secured (you can just see a shiny strap in the first photo) and the charge cooler pump/reservoir are secured, as is the charcoal canister which prevents petrol fumes from being smelt via the tank breather.




    Moving forward again, and into the car this time. A new transmission tunnel top was fabricated and welded into place, to cover the 200SX gearbox. Additionally, all the fuel and brake pipes, as well as the main battery cable which run through the car were secured into place. The chargecooler pipes and vacuum pipe for the vacuum tank still need to be secured in their final positions once I get some suitable clips of the correct size for them.


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