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Thread: Cams gear?

  1. #21

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    Saphir
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    Because it is a work of precision , 1° excessive or even half a degree and the result will not be the same .

    This is 1° mark :


    IMG_1372.jpg

    This is 2° mark :

    sk2.camgear-d-pro3_det.jpg

    Saf
    3000GT 1430awhp and 1132nm twin 6466CEA @ 44 psi + Galant VR4 type-S 701awhp @ 1.7 bars 6466CEA + Galant GDI to 4G63 ... In progress

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by SAF68 View Post

    For all !! Don't buy a gams gear with 2° range /mark
    And reasons...??

    They work perfectly for me

    Saf, not gonna be funny, but that statement is b**it
    Ex: Galant VR4
    Running 268 HP ATW and 443 Nm torque at 0.9 bar
    Now: Lancer Evolution 8 FQ-300
    Running 325 HP ATW and 510 Nm torque at 1.6 bar

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by SAF68 View Post
    Because it is a work of precision , 1° excessive or even half a degree and the result will not be the same .

    This is 1° mark :


    IMG_1372.jpg
    This is 2° mark :

    sk2.camgear-d-pro3_det.jpg

    Saf
    Ha ha ha... you should go for some serious reason than that...

  4. #24

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    Hey tomasz ,

    What is your setting?

    Saf

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by SAF68 View Post
    Hey tomasz ,

    What is your setting?

    Saf
    So far dialed against crank etc. with engine out.
    Seems that up to -3/3 degree there is safe margin to dial.
    Now dyno booked after Easter for proper setup. Will try -1/1 for a good midrange and civilized idle, we will see...

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by swinks View Post
    Ha ha ha... you should go for some serious reason than that...
    Swinks,

    Did you have issues with fitting the gears on the rear bank at all, they seem to foul in my case?

    In theory I have the same gears you purchased, but the workshop is having issues fitting them.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKKO View Post
    Swinks,

    Did you have issues with fitting the gears on the rear bank at all, they seem to foul in my case?

    In theory I have the same gears you purchased, but the workshop is having issues fitting them.
    Yes, I think I've mentioned im my other thread.
    So, rear bank, intake one. It's down to cam verniers are much thicker than stock one so internal sidewall of gear is fouling by 2 bolt mounts in engine head casing. I believe these 2 mounts are for genuine Mitsi cam gear locking tool. Anyway I did re-grind a bit these mounts, appros. 3-4mm each and now it's OK.

    Also beware!
    Front exhaust cam gear with timing rotor blade has TDC mark in wrong place!

  8. #28

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    Thanks that helps a lot !!

    Have some rep!
    Last edited by AKKO; 14-05-2013 at 10:35 AM.

  9. #29

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    Final hurdle with these hopefully now overcome...

    "The cam gears you supplied were not only two teeth off on the exhaust cam front bank, they were also two teeth out (in the opposite direction) on the intake cam front bank. Additionally they were also three teeth out on both cams (in opposite directions) on the rear bank too. As a result they were difficult and time consuming to get right. They are now dialled in correctly. Intake cam centres of 109Deg ATDC and exhaust cam centres of 112Deg BTDC."

  10. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by swinks View Post
    Little update.
    Thanks to Paul (psbarham) who borrowed to me stock front exhaust cam gear with cam rotor blades I could investigate why in my aftermarket cam verniers rotor blade was so much misaligned.
    So did few checks:
    Attachment 57756
    Here is the answer...
    Rotor blade wasn't misaligned at all! There was wrongly positioned timing mark!
    There is 2 tooth misalign between both cam gears
    Now adjustable cam gear has a "new" timing mark scratched by myself:
    Attachment 57757
    @swinks / @Eurospec can I confirm your findings compared to my post above, mines not behaving / performing as I would expect a cam'd VR4 would...
    Last edited by AKKO; 16-07-2014 at 03:14 PM.

  11. #31
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    Chris, when I diid mine, there was only exhaust front gear (that with camshaft sensor rotor blade) which was wrongly marked. I did check several times each adjustable cam gear vs. stock one. And those dears where identical to stock, but front exhaust one (markings). After some slight mods all gears where performing well.
    You won't get any change in performance after fitting adjustable cam gears. Once fitted you will need to dial them accordingly to your camshaft profile. There is no golden rule, unless you have well known engine to whole tuners community. Otherwise it's a very slow process of dyno runs with different cam settings. For starter you may start with +1/-1. Remember not to dial more than 2 degree each direction unless you did all maths and calculations and you are sure that valve won't meet a piston. Saying that because no-one yet did full play with 6A13TT, and it's still unknown territory.

    Few general rules with cam gear setting:
    Generally, advancing a cam gear opens a valve sooner, and closes it sooner… retarding the cam gear, opens the valve later, and closes it later… since all you’ve done is “move” the fixed event.
    1. Advancing Intake and Exhaust: This will provide the car with more bottom end power, and will decrease top end. Advancing both cam gears will move overlap earlier but will not increase it.
    2. Retarding Intake and Exhaust: This will increase the cars top end, but will decrease low end. Retarding both cam gears will move the overlap later and but will not change the amount of overlap.
    3. Advance Exhaust Only: This will help the cars top end, and it reduces overlap.
    4. Retard Exhaust only: This will help the cars mid range power, very useful for cars with big turbos / big cams. By increasing overlap, It decreases lag significantly. Doing this will bring the boost on all at once. Very common DSM modification.
    5. Advance Intake only: This will increase overlap and helps the cars bottom end and mid range power. This mod will bring the turbo on all at once, although isnt a very common mod for DSMS.
    6. Advancing Intake and Retarding Exhaust: Other most popular setting. This will increase overlap, it will help with mid range without sacrifice top end power.

    Also, need to be repeated once again. There is no "best setting" for particular cams. As example: the same dial for HKS 264 would make totally different impact on powerband with GSC S1 cams. Another example, BC 272 cams require different dialling than GSC S2 (272), where later don't need to be dialled and gives you the best results being at 0/0.

    Welcome to a long dyno sessions...

  12. #32

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    Wasn't expecting gears to make a difference without adjustment, rather performance has gone backwards since before cams were fitted hence I suspect something is off somewhere perhaps the cam timing...

  13. #33
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    Well, put back on stock cam gears, do dyno. Then fit adjustable gears (check them against stock one prior fitting) dialled at 0/0. Do dyno run. If result is very close, then it's not cam gears in fault.

  14. #34

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    Akko , what is the brand of your cams gear ? Hope for you that is not WORKS T7 Cam Pulley ...

    Saf

  15. #35

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    Yes Works gears, don't believe issue is with the gears just settings which can be measured other ways if needed (dial-guage to measure lift etc)

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