Because it is a work of precision , 1° excessive or even half a degree and the result will not be the same .
This is 1° mark :
IMG_1372.jpg
This is 2° mark :
sk2.camgear-d-pro3_det.jpg
Saf
Because it is a work of precision , 1° excessive or even half a degree and the result will not be the same .
This is 1° mark :
IMG_1372.jpg
This is 2° mark :
sk2.camgear-d-pro3_det.jpg
Saf
3000GT 1430awhp and 1132nm twin 6466CEA @ 44 psi + Galant VR4 type-S 701awhp @ 1.7 bars 6466CEA + Galant GDI to 4G63 ... In progress
Hey tomasz ,
What is your setting?
Saf
Yes, I think I've mentioned im my other thread.
So, rear bank, intake one. It's down to cam verniers are much thicker than stock one so internal sidewall of gear is fouling by 2 bolt mounts in engine head casing. I believe these 2 mounts are for genuine Mitsi cam gear locking tool. Anyway I did re-grind a bit these mounts, appros. 3-4mm each and now it's OK.
Also beware!
Front exhaust cam gear with timing rotor blade has TDC mark in wrong place!
Thanks that helps a lot !!
Have some rep!
Last edited by AKKO; 14-05-2013 at 10:35 AM.
Final hurdle with these hopefully now overcome...
"The cam gears you supplied were not only two teeth off on the exhaust cam front bank, they were also two teeth out (in the opposite direction) on the intake cam front bank. Additionally they were also three teeth out on both cams (in opposite directions) on the rear bank too. As a result they were difficult and time consuming to get right. They are now dialled in correctly. Intake cam centres of 109Deg ATDC and exhaust cam centres of 112Deg BTDC."
Chris, when I diid mine, there was only exhaust front gear (that with camshaft sensor rotor blade) which was wrongly marked. I did check several times each adjustable cam gear vs. stock one. And those dears where identical to stock, but front exhaust one (markings). After some slight mods all gears where performing well.
You won't get any change in performance after fitting adjustable cam gears. Once fitted you will need to dial them accordingly to your camshaft profile. There is no golden rule, unless you have well known engine to whole tuners community. Otherwise it's a very slow process of dyno runs with different cam settings. For starter you may start with +1/-1. Remember not to dial more than 2 degree each direction unless you did all maths and calculations and you are sure that valve won't meet a piston. Saying that because no-one yet did full play with 6A13TT, and it's still unknown territory.
Few general rules with cam gear setting:
Generally, advancing a cam gear opens a valve sooner, and closes it sooner… retarding the cam gear, opens the valve later, and closes it later… since all you’ve done is “move” the fixed event.
1. Advancing Intake and Exhaust: This will provide the car with more bottom end power, and will decrease top end. Advancing both cam gears will move overlap earlier but will not increase it.
2. Retarding Intake and Exhaust: This will increase the cars top end, but will decrease low end. Retarding both cam gears will move the overlap later and but will not change the amount of overlap.
3. Advance Exhaust Only: This will help the cars top end, and it reduces overlap.
4. Retard Exhaust only: This will help the cars mid range power, very useful for cars with big turbos / big cams. By increasing overlap, It decreases lag significantly. Doing this will bring the boost on all at once. Very common DSM modification.
5. Advance Intake only: This will increase overlap and helps the cars bottom end and mid range power. This mod will bring the turbo on all at once, although isnt a very common mod for DSMS.
6. Advancing Intake and Retarding Exhaust: Other most popular setting. This will increase overlap, it will help with mid range without sacrifice top end power.
Also, need to be repeated once again. There is no "best setting" for particular cams. As example: the same dial for HKS 264 would make totally different impact on powerband with GSC S1 cams. Another example, BC 272 cams require different dialling than GSC S2 (272), where later don't need to be dialled and gives you the best results being at 0/0.
Welcome to a long dyno sessions...
Wasn't expecting gears to make a difference without adjustment, rather performance has gone backwards since before cams were fitted hence I suspect something is off somewhere perhaps the cam timing...
Well, put back on stock cam gears, do dyno. Then fit adjustable gears (check them against stock one prior fitting) dialled at 0/0. Do dyno run. If result is very close, then it's not cam gears in fault.
Akko , what is the brand of your cams gear ? Hope for you that is not WORKS T7 Cam Pulley ...
Saf
Yes Works gears, don't believe issue is with the gears just settings which can be measured other ways if needed (dial-guage to measure lift etc)