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Thread: Engine & TCL light, diff noises..

  1. #1

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    Engine & TCL light, diff noises..

    Hi all,

    I'm very new to the world of AWD vehicles, let alone an import with very little info avaliable in Oz! Previous car was a supercharged v8 commodore..

    So I've purchased a newly imported 2000 model VR4 Legnum, great condition... BUT.. When I originally test drove, the engine light and TCL lights were both showing. Dealer replaced a vacuum solenoid and checked ECU error codes and appeared OK. Also got a full MTA check which was all positive.

    Anyway so got the car yesterday, and within 20 mins lights are back on and an intermittent possible bearing noise appears from the rear, esp during take off. Dealer reckons rear diff oil could be causing this, but said was rare in my car and more common in evo. He has definitely not left me high and dry and will pay for whatever repairs are required, it's just annoying to be doing this so early with my new car!!

    Has anyone got a guide to bleeding and servicing the AYC system for this car? The whole concept of a reservoir in the boot is new to me, plus Repco had no idea what oil to use, and looking over the net was similarly bad!

    Any help or advice would be much appreciated

    Cheers
    Last edited by KlUe; 18-02-2012 at 08:59 PM.

  2. #2
    Davezj's Avatar

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    Hi and welcome to the club.
    All the information you need is in the clubs library section which is accessible once you are a fully paid up member.

    But here is some info for you,
    The rear diff can make a noise when fluid is low in the rear diffyou have ATF and gear oi, in different section of the diff.
    The reservoir in the boot is a separate oil system to the diff oils, it runs one side of the pump and the other side of the pump runs the diff.
    If you have low pressure in the ayc pump a red light AYC will light up on the dash when the car is running, it is the same AYC light that comes on when the ignition is turned on before starting the car.
    Hope this holos, and I can't stress enough full membership is worth every penny.

    Bye for Now!

  3. #3

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    A Mitsi dealership will be able to flush the AYC system for you properly, as it's a pain to do without the Mitsi diagnostic tool or Evoscan and the right cable.

    The noise on takeoff you will probably notice as well if you corner hard and the AYC bars light up.

    You will need SAE90 diff oil and about a litre to two litres of MM-SP3 - don't use anything other than that transmission fluid, as it will destroy the diff.

    Some of the OzVR4 guys might be able to give you a hand.

  4. #4
    Nick Mann's Avatar

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    As above, really. Rear diff vibrating/rumbling noise is often the clutch pack oil, ATF is needed and must meet or exceed the SPIII standard.

    TCL on a 2000 car is very rare, but on prefacelift cars the engine check light and tcl light together usually means a problem with the vacuum system - check all the small hoses from the top of the throttle body to the solenoids and canister on the bulkhead. If re-seating those doesn't help, next thing is the solenoids themselves.

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    Thanks for the replies guys, I wanted to avoid going to dealer as they'll charge way more for the same thing.. Will let you know how I go.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Mann View Post
    TCL on a 2000 car is very rare, but on prefacelift cars the engine check light and tcl light together usually means a problem with the vacuum system - check all the small hoses from the top of the throttle body to the solenoids and canister on the bulkhead. If re-seating those doesn't help, next thing is the solenoids themselves.
    The dealer reckons he swapped the solenoids from another legnum but clearly hasn't helped.. Would it be related in any way to the noises I'm hearing in the diff? Apparently it was at auto electricians and they couldn't find fault codes after swapping solenoid..

    Cheers

  7. #7
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    Undo MAF and check if it starts. If yes, but rough idling then you have simple air leak (either turbo pipes, vacuum or dv). Wrong vacuum will affect asc and ayc so grinding noise and 3 bars of ayc. I know sounds strange but it's true.
    Ex: Galant VR4
    Running 268 HP ATW and 443 Nm torque at 0.9 bar
    Now: Lancer Evolution 8 FQ-300
    Running 325 HP ATW and 510 Nm torque at 1.6 bar

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    Quote Originally Posted by swinks View Post
    Undo MAF and check if it starts. If yes, but rough idling then you have simple air leak (either turbo pipes, vacuum or dv). Wrong vacuum will affect asc and ayc so grinding noise and 3 bars of ayc. I know sounds strange but it's true.
    Yeah I'll check it out, though the AYC lights are not coming on, it's just engine and TCL lights. Might just get it back to the dealer and get them to fix their crap pre-sales issues!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by KlUe View Post
    Yeah I'll check it out, though the AYC lights are not coming on, it's just engine and TCL lights. Might just get it back to the dealer and get them to fix their crap pre-sales issues!
    Green ayc bars when driving, when they should not really coming up.

    Does the AYC light come on when the ignition turns on. If not then it could be a dodgy AYC cover up, by removing the AYC warning light bulb. So it does not show errors.

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    Also if the AYC green bars don't light up when the ignition is turned on, check behind the glovebox for the AYC ECU. It should have all the connectors firmly in - if not, then they may have pulled them out to mask the fault.
    This may cause other issues if they have pulled it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Davezj View Post
    Green ayc bars when driving, when they should not really coming up.

    Does the AYC light come on when the ignition turns on. If not then it could be a dodgy AYC cover up, by removing the AYC warning light bulb. So it does not show errors.
    Definitely no green bars while driving normally, they do flash when ignition first turns on. Can't see any AYC light apart from the white one beneath the green bars.. Is there supposed to be a red or orange warning light...?

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    Just called the dealer and told him about it.. He's arranging a tow truck tomorrow and taking to specialist in my area which he'll cover all repair costs for. Just disappointed my new car isn't right.. Will post results when I find out, thanks again for everyone's help and input!

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    atleast you dont have to pay for repairs, hope he actually gets it done, properly

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    Yeah, the guy seems like an honest bloke so I'm trusting him for now, it sounds genuinely like he wants to help me fix the car.

    PS, It's going to Meek Automotive in NSW, for any Aussie members..

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    Meek Automotive knows these cars really well. A lot of the OzVR4 boys deal with Meek, and he does a good job - so he should be able to find the fault.

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    Yeah, so far they've been great. He reckons it's most likely the rear AYC pump that is causing all the issues.. Will find out tomorrow exactly though.

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    Problem is the AYC pump. Meek said Mitsubishi don't sell components for the pump for Australia so the best way to fix it is a 2nd hand pump. So currently they've just removed the fuse for the AYC meaning I dont have LSD on the rear. Though, car is staying there until the dealer either locates one from Japan, or from one of their other cars in the yard.

  18. #18

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    There are plenty in NZ - contact Ralliart NZ or Kempys, who are Mitsi wreckers here. The dealer can pay

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    ayc does not = lsd,

    the rear diff is a open diff, with ayc, which does torque transfer from left to right under required circumstances

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    Apologies if someone answered this already and I missed it:

    There is a red AYC warnng lamp at the bottom right of the dash, that should come on and go off with the other warning lights on start up. There is a you tube video of it somewhere that someone did a while ago.

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