Fuel pump relay (on bulkhead) or suitable replacement relay

[apeman69]

I've been looking for a replacement for the fuel pump relay located on the bulkhead (inside the rubber cover): Denso part number 058700-4310.
However, Googling for this just tells me that it's also used on Evo 4s and that there are other Denso 058700-xxxx ones available.
I am willing to remove mine, crack it open and have a look what's going on inside to potentially repair it but, just in case it's well and truly goosed, I'd rather have a spare available whilst I do this.
Does anyone have one that is known to be working or have information about a potential substitute that will do the same job?
Surely a relay is a relay and there isn't anything special about this one other than it's inherent design properties: pin configuration, voltage & amp properties, so I'm hoping there is a suitable substitute more readily available. Unfortunately I can't find any technical specs on this model. I don't mind having to rewire the thing if I can get one that will work but that has a different pin configuration to the loom connector for example.

Why do I THINK I need one?
Recently (during spells of changing warm/cold weather) I have been having starting and running problems which seem like I've either run out of fuel (when car won't start) or the fuel pump is constantly pulsing on and off (when it does start).

Symptoms
When turning the key to the 'ON' position during 'cold' weather (about 10 degrees C or less) I can hear repetitive clicking coming from the engine bay. On investigation it is the boost solenoid that is clicking on and off. This is an after-market part which was fitted when the MAP2-ECU was installed and is therefore not very old. It looks like it is wired in to the power feed to the bulkhead relay.
Before attempting to start the car I can hear a single click from a relay behind the dash, as I would expect (fuel pump/ECU relay behind the stereo I assume).
If I start the car during the clicking phase it will run for a few seconds then die. Whilst it is running I can hear the clicking from the engine bay (boost solenoid) and more clicking from the relay wired at the fuel pump (pump is hard-wired to battery).
If I then leave the ignition off for 20-30 seconds it will very often start as normal or, if it doesn't start then it will at least idle with the revs rising and falling in time with the clicking from the engine bay and under the rear seat. I know that if there is no repeated clicking when turning the ignition on that the car will start and generally run as normal.
When I switch the ignition off I can hear a single click from the ECU/fuel pump relay area behind the dash (different sound to the other clicks!) as expected.

What have I done?
The symptoms became particularly bad about a week ago (high number of attempts to start and car died once whilst driving) and I had a look at the connections to the fuel pump, relay at the pump, hard-wire connections etc and I am convinced that the pump and 'rear end' bits are OK.
Moving along, I removed the relay from the bulkhead and found the connector pins at the relay and the loom connector to be VERY dirty/contaminated to the point where I was surprised that any electrical signal was passing through them at all. After cleaning it all up as best I could, the car started first time (but it was reasonably warm then).
The next morning (cold outside) it wouldn't start first time and I was having the same symptoms as above.
I took out a screwdriver and began beating the relay with wanton abandon. Since then it has been, generally, easier to start than before the relay had a thrashing!
My thinking is that the relay is sticking or not activating properly when it's cold outside and that repeatedly turning the ignition on and off is eventually forcing the thing to shift.

I'm aware that it could be a faulty ECU or associated wiring and if the relay was found to be in good or reasonable condition then I'd be investigating those. However, it really was in a bad way externally and I can only assume that this is the same internally.

If a suitable replacement can be sourced then I think this may help others in the future as it's probably a part that isn't going to last forever.
Perhaps whip your own off and have a look for signs of impending doom!

[swinks]

Alan, can't help you with relay values, but if swap wouldn't help, then it's time to investigate ICV maybe?

[gadboy007]

Got one here you can have. No known issues with it, car started first time everytime until the cambelt went POP!!! PM me your address and I'll get it in the post to you today F.O.C.
Cheers
Ian

[Davezj]

@apeman96
for a PFL 1998 the following is true.
i believe the relay on the bulkhead next to the vacuum control solonoids is the seconary fuel pump relay and all this one does is switches the resistor pack in and out of the circuit to drop the fuel pump voltage to about 7V at idle. the resistor pack is the ceramic white ish looking thing inbetween the vacuum solenoids and the grey vacuum canister.

i have bypassed my resistor pack as i am using a GSS432 fuel pump and it need full battery voltage all the time to run correctly. i have basically shorted the pins on the relay together so it does not matter if the relay is on or off it does the same thing. Galant only put a circuit diagram up of the fuel pump wiring and i thought i would give it a try as it seemed to be an easy way to hotwire the fuel pump and it is.

i will see if i can fird the thread.

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthr...uel+pump+relay

Post 29 and 31 should give you the info you need.

so you could actually just bypass this relay conpletely as long as you short the corrct wires on the loom, and it will supply a constant battery voltage to the other fuel pump relay that actually does the switching on and off.
you would short pin 5 to pin 2 from the relay and you can test to see if this fixes you issues, without having to replace the relay.

[apeman69]

I thought of that, Dave, and I've even got a little wire made up with spade connectors on each end. I couldn't find out which pins to connect together though.

[Davezj]

Well now you can.
If you take the rubber cover off he relay it should have a diagram on the top of it with contact numbers.

[apeman69]

There's no info on the relay at all! Not even the part number. I got that from the rubber cover. I read a thread about bypassing the relay on a GTO but I don't want to wire it up the same just in case.
Unless someone can say with certainty which pins to short I'll wait for the replacement.

[gadboy007]

There's no info on the relay at all! Not even the part number. I got that from the rubber cover. I read a thread about bypassing the relay on a GTO but I don't want to wire it up the same just in case.
Unless someone can say with certainty which pins to short I'll wait for the replacement.

Sent First Class 13.45 today mate, so hopefully be with you tomorrow
Cheers
Ian

[apeman69]

Thanks very much. If I can ever return the favour I surely will.