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Thread: hi vis clocks

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    hi vis clocks

    ive just been given a set of hi vis dash clocks ,thay work fine apart from thay dont light up .any idears anyone?

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    Nick Mann's Avatar

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    Did you have hi vis clocks in the car before?

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    I have as well lo vis but want to change with a hi vis. Nick do you know if I have to do any modifications ?

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    I am pretty sure that you do need to do some modifying. I think someone has written about it on this site. But I can't remember the details.

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    ok Nick I will have a look on the forum .. thanks , but first I need to find one hi vis dash clock if anyone have one please let me know

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    no i have low vis atm nick

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    Need to bridge connectors 4-5 on one of the plugs IIRC to supply an extra 12v feed.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AKKO View Post
    Need to bridge connectors 4-5 on one of the plugs IIRC to supply an extra 12v feed.
    dont suppose you know witch plug ,and what colour the two wires are do you thanks paul

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    There should be multiple posts on this topic that include pitures. At least I have posted them here IIRC. Here is at least two pics:

    http://www.galant-fans.nl/forum/down...view/image.jpg
    http://www.galant-fans.nl/forum/down...view/image.jpg

    To help you count correctly: the white wire with the black stripe is pin 1 and you should connect / bridge 4&5 (this is from a V6 N/A but it's all the same regarding these specific pins between models).

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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkSanne View Post
    There should be multiple posts on this topic that include pitures. At least I have posted them here IIRC. Here is at least two pics:

    http://www.galant-fans.nl/forum/down...view/image.jpg
    http://www.galant-fans.nl/forum/down...view/image.jpg

    To help you count correctly: the white wire with the black stripe is pin 1 and you should connect / bridge 4&5 (this is from a V6 N/A but it's all the same regarding these specific pins between models).
    thanks mark will try it thu the week an see how it gose

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    Hope you didn't burn you voltage regulator or clocks yet.

    Haven't got time yet to reply in your thread as been busy at work.
    Anyway, did several conversion from stock dash to hi-vis ones. From my experience method with JUST swap pins in socket is easy way asking for serious problems. Why?
    Simply because there are at least 3 different variants of stock dash having different signal on pin 5. By putting +12V feed on pin4 you can get away if there is oil level or washer fluid level signal, but is there is battery charge signal (from voltage regulator) then you asking for serious problems.
    So, in simple words... it's not a matter of just bridge pins 4 and 5!

    Let's start again, then...
    1. You need to figure out what icon in stock dash is connected to pin 5. As mentioned there are many variants, so this you need to figure out yourself.

    2. Remove backing white bazel from hi-viz dash. It's secured by 4 screws in corners. You will see hi-vis dash luminescent panel.
    http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps8cff766c.jpg

    3. Lift up panel, extra care for connection between clocks and panel itself in a top right corner. It's just a lift up matter, but be gentle.
    http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps74c4cd22.jpg

    4. Now, you are ready to do some work on hi-vis clocks conversion.
    http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps6e8da9d3.jpg
    http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps287f5505.jpg

    5. First, cut path leading to pin #5. Best location I did show in picture below. For best result use some sharp craft/stanley knife. Remember you dealing with delicate matter - foil.
    http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...pscf9ffeef.png

    6. Well, time to get ready for some soldering. It's a tricky part. Circuit paths are within plastic foil, so extra care is necessary. Begin with some preparation: remove thin plastic film from soldering area with sharp knife (scrub one), use a lot of flux. Also flexible thin wire/cable top quality copper recommended. Cut wires exactly to size, strip max. 3mm of insulation, after soldering secure area with patch of insulation tape.

    7. OK, ready for making bridge between paths from pin 4 and 5. In picture showed the best location.
    http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...pscf9ffeef.png

    8. Now, time to connect remained icon originally from pin 5. Depends of location connect as picture show.
    http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...pscf9ffeef.png

    Because out CVR4 website won't let me use high resolution pictures I've used hosting of photobucket.

    Well hope it helps
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    Quote Originally Posted by swinks View Post
    Hope you didn't burn you voltage regulator or clocks yet.

    Haven't got time yet to reply in your thread as been busy at work.
    Anyway, did several conversion from stock dash to hi-vis ones. From my experience method with JUST swap pins in socket is easy way asking for serious problems. Why?
    Simply because there are at least 3 different variants of stock dash having different signal on pin 5. By putting +12V feed on pin4 you can get away if there is oil level or washer fluid level signal, but is there is battery charge signal (from voltage regulator) then you asking for serious problems.
    So, in simple words... it's not a matter of just bridge pins 4 and 5!

    Let's start again, then...
    1. You need to figure out what icon in stock dash is connected to pin 5. As mentioned there are many variants, so this you need to figure out yourself.

    2. Remove backing white bazel from hi-viz dash. It's secured by 4 screws in corners. You will see hi-vis dash luminescent panel.
    http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps8cff766c.jpg

    3. Lift up panel, extra care for connection between clocks and panel itself in a top right corner. It's just a lift up matter, but be gentle.
    http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps74c4cd22.jpg

    4. Now, you are ready to do some work on hi-vis clocks conversion.
    http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps6e8da9d3.jpg
    http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps287f5505.jpg

    5. First, cut path leading to pin #5. Best location I did show in picture below. For best result use some sharp craft/stanley knife. Remember you dealing with delicate matter - foil.
    http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...pscf9ffeef.png

    6. Well, time to get ready for some soldering. It's a tricky part. Circuit paths are within plastic foil, so extra care is necessary. Begin with some preparation: remove thin plastic film from soldering area with sharp knife (scrub one), use a lot of flux. Also flexible thin wire/cable top quality copper recommended. Cut wires exactly to size, strip max. 3mm of insulation, after soldering secure area with patch of insulation tape.

    7. OK, ready for making bridge between paths from pin 4 and 5. In picture showed the best location.
    http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...pscf9ffeef.png

    8. Now, time to connect remained icon originally from pin 5. Depends of location connect as picture show.
    http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...pscf9ffeef.png

    Because out CVR4 website won't let me use high resolution pictures I've used hosting of photobucket.

    Well hope it helps
    just followed your step by step guide and it still didnt work ,and now my battry light isnt comming on with old clocks .think i fried somthink .but as for the hi-vis clocks not 100% thay lit up to start with . thanks for your help,but looks like i will be stuck with the old clocks for now

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulbonner84 View Post
    just followed your step by step guide and it still didnt work ,and now my battry light isnt comming on with old clocks .think i fried somthink ....
    Voltage regulator likely gone.

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    Quote Originally Posted by swinks View Post
    Voltage regulator likely gone.
    where abouts would that be,an dose anyone have a set of hi vis clocks already converted?
    Last edited by paulbonner84; 09-05-2013 at 03:36 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by swinks View Post
    Hope you didn't burn you voltage regulator or clocks yet.

    Haven't got time yet to reply in your thread as been busy at work.
    Anyway, did several conversion from stock dash to hi-vis ones. From my experience method with JUST swap pins in socket is easy way asking for serious problems. Why?
    Simply because there are at least 3 different variants of stock dash having different signal on pin 5. By putting +12V feed on pin4 you can get away if there is oil level or washer fluid level signal, but is there is battery charge signal (from voltage regulator) then you asking for serious problems.
    So, in simple words... it's not a matter of just bridge pins 4 and 5!

    Let's start again, then...
    1. You need to figure out what icon in stock dash is connected to pin 5. As mentioned there are many variants, so this you need to figure out yourself.

    2. Remove backing white bazel from hi-viz dash. It's secured by 4 screws in corners. You will see hi-vis dash luminescent panel.
    http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps8cff766c.jpg

    3. Lift up panel, extra care for connection between clocks and panel itself in a top right corner. It's just a lift up matter, but be gentle.
    http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps74c4cd22.jpg

    4. Now, you are ready to do some work on hi-vis clocks conversion.
    http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps6e8da9d3.jpg
    http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps287f5505.jpg

    5. First, cut path leading to pin #5. Best location I did show in picture below. For best result use some sharp craft/stanley knife. Remember you dealing with delicate matter - foil.
    http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...pscf9ffeef.png

    6. Well, time to get ready for some soldering. It's a tricky part. Circuit paths are within plastic foil, so extra care is necessary. Begin with some preparation: remove thin plastic film from soldering area with sharp knife (scrub one), use a lot of flux. Also flexible thin wire/cable top quality copper recommended. Cut wires exactly to size, strip max. 3mm of insulation, after soldering secure area with patch of insulation tape.

    7. OK, ready for making bridge between paths from pin 4 and 5. In picture showed the best location.
    http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...pscf9ffeef.png

    8. Now, time to connect remained icon originally from pin 5. Depends of location connect as picture show.
    http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...pscf9ffeef.png

    Because out CVR4 website won't let me use high resolution pictures I've used hosting of photobucket.

    Well hope it helps
    hey mate, your steps worked for me, thanks..

    but why the clocks gets brighter when i turn on the lights? i think it should be dimmer when we turn on the light right? any idea?

    actually i don't mind if i can get my clocks to go brightest at all time.. 'coz it does look gooood

  16. #16
    swinks's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by binghw1318 View Post

    but why the clocks gets brighter when i turn on the lights? i think it should be dimmer when we turn on the light right? any idea?

    actually i don't mind if i can get my clocks to go brightest at all time.. 'coz it does look gooood
    Yes, with lights on, clocks are getting bit brighter. The same idea like in standard clocks getting highlighted once you turn lights on. For dimming there is dimmer on right hand side of the steering wheel mounted in dash clock surround trim.

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    binghw1318's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by swinks View Post
    Yes, with lights on, clocks are getting bit brighter. The same idea like in standard clocks getting highlighted once you turn lights on. For dimming there is dimmer on right hand side of the steering wheel mounted in dash clock surround trim.
    Oh i see.. Well, is there a way to make the clocks go bright even when the lights are off?

  18. #18
    swinks's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by binghw1318 View Post
    Oh i see.. Well, is there a way to make the clocks go bright even when the lights are off?
    The same, use the dimmer in clocks surround

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by swinks View Post
    The same, use the dimmer in clocks surround
    But the dimmer does nothing when the lights are off

  20. #20
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    Hmmm... I just finished converting my V6 interior from everything beige leather/plastics to all black leather & plastics + sound proofing and hoped my wobbly rev needle would be solved by replacing the dashboard (the old one had 3 screw-holes in it), but still a wobbly rev needle.

    I tried with another spare VR4 HC speedo and same result, which I made a short video of: http://youtu.be/ytdBd24cWh0

    Only when I connect the original 'analog' / classic speedo the rev needle works as it should.
    Any ideas?

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