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Thread: Gear knob very stiff when cold engine

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    Gear knob very stiff when cold engine

    Hi everyone

    I have recently noticed that my gear knob is very stiff when i try to chage gears. That only occurs when engine is not warmed up. After 10 minutes or so its all fine again. I have no idea what might cause that. Any ideas are greatly appreciated. Thanks

    Ps Its a galant 2002 2.5V6 24V

  2. #2
    crazydriver81's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by c-traxx View Post
    Hi everyone

    I have recently noticed that my gear knob is very stiff when i try to chage gears. That only occurs when engine is not warmed up. After 10 minutes or so its all fine again. I have no idea what might cause that. Any ideas are greatly appreciated. Thanks

    Ps Its a galant 2002 2.5V6 24V
    I assume, you have a manual car? If so, please check the bushings at the gearbox side, where the shift cables end. Might be that they are gone hard from the age and need to be replaced? Just an idea...

    Other question: how old is the gearbox oil? Worth to replace it possibly? It will not cost a fortune for the manual box to get the oil replaced.
    the one and only...Pearl White Legnum 25 ST-R...registered in Germany - now featuring a 6A13TT engine (unless you know otherwise)


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    Oh sorry its a manual gearbox, oil was chaged 3 years ago together with new cluch. You might be right with the bushings. How often should i chage the oil in the gearbox? My cluch bites when pedal is very low so i might need to adjust that too.

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    I had similar in mine last winter, it was a failing clutch slave cylinder, putting it into gear was fine with engine off. Pump clutch pedal a few times warms up the fluid so it expands and then works better. Slave is only about £45 but needs bleeding after obviously

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    I will get that checed too. Its really anoying. After just like 10 minutes of engine running its all fine again. If its just £50 then its worth replacing.

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    I would be changing the oil. It has to be GL4
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    Evo1rs, i have adjusted clutch pedal and it all worked fine for a while. I now have same issue. I have changed the gearbox oil today and waited until engine cooled down. Gear knob was still stiff. It has to be what you have mentioneded, the clutch cylinder sleve. I only have one question: if the cylinder sleve is damaged should i notice any leakage around the cylinder or even if it is broken will still look fine? I just wanted to make sure. Thanks again

  9. #9
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    Mine didn't seem to have any leakage mate, my clutch pedal was noticeably lower when it was happening though. Hope this helps

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    Have you checked the gear linkage at the gearbox end. They can rust and jam at their mounting points, if not greased.
    http://mitsubishi.epcdata.ru/legnum/...shift-control/
    Mine was rusted at 23172 in the picture.

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    I will have that checked. Thanks for picture

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    evo1rs This definatelly helps. I have exact same symptoms. My cluch cylindel (as a whole) outside looks spot on. Dry, no signs of any kind of failure. The only way to find out is to get a new one and get it changed? Btw if im right I should fill gearbox with 2.2 litres of oil?

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    If I remember correctly the manual gearbox on the vr4 is 2.7 litres. Basically with the car on level ground, the oil should just dribble out of the fill plug.

  14. #14
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    Fwd box is 2.2l in the workshop manual but as Nick says, the filler hole is the level! Yes I think changing it is the only way of checking it. Here's some useful info on setting up the pedal height if you need it.

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    Awesome, I will order it asap. And for the oil i did what you recommended and now its all good apart from clutch obviously. Thanks for help guys.

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    Im back again, i have replaced the clutch cylinder and my gears are all working again so perfect advice guys. I do have another problem that came up today while on motorway. I have scanned the fault codes (cheapy obd2 bluetooth adapter) and one code came up P0125 so something to do with coolant. Any advice what is wrong with it? I will check the coolant level but i dont think anything is leaking. Maybe someone had similar issue and it was an easy fix? Thanks again for advice guys

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    What happened on the motorway?

    I *think* some of the later UK spec cars were OBD2 compliant, but most aren't the best way to get the codes is the flashy dash method, as shown in this thread.

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    Nothing really, i was driving as usual and the orange emmision symbol came up on the dasboard. Car was behaving as usual, no extra fuel usage noticed or any other symptoms.

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    Googling the code gives:

    Insufficient warm up time
    Low engine coolant level
    Leaking or stuck open thermostat
    Faulty coolant temperature sensor

    Assuming your car is OBD2 compliant (it might not be) then the only worrying thing on that list is low coolant. Other stuff won't stop you driving in the short term. If you car is not OBD2 compliant then that code could well be a red herring.

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    I think it is obd2 as i have checked the faulty codes before (2 years ago error came up with oxygen sensor so replaced that and cleared the code and since then everything was as should). I have googled the same and same results came up. I will check the coolant first but twmperature was normal (100mile trip).

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