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Thread: Understanding the factory CD and boot amp

  1. #41
    foxdie's Avatar

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    Just a last note on those previous samples, I have a gut feeling the sample rate for the Logic Analyser was too low, I'm gonna redo them at a higher sample rate soon to be absolutely sure.
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  2. #42
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    i can view you logs looks interesting.

    Bye for Now!

  3. #43
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    I'm almost certainly convinced the sample rate on the LA (Logic Analyser) was too low now, it was done at 125k samples/sec whereas the TekScope was 500k samples/sec.

    I'll redo the measurements tomorrow morning when I park up at work at 1M samples/sec to be sure.

  4. #44
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    Turns out I was right, have taken new samples (and of more activities) at a much higher sample rate, see the link in the previous posts

  5. #45
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    Have updated Part 3 with a link to a spreadsheet where I'm decoding the data

  6. #46
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    Jason if you want to reallocate some of my first post in this thread to make the thread flow better at the beginning feel free, you would have to get one the mods to do it thought,
    or post up what you want to say in a later post and I will copy and past it in the appropriate post.

    just remember being able to editing posts only lasts for 2 months.

    let me know

  7. #47
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    Yeah you're right, I'm reserving Part 4 for the absolute information once it's all decoded and understood

    A friend of mine in Oz who is a smart cookie when it comes to patterns has already spotted early on that a lot of requests that go over the bus are repeated but only a couple of bits change depending on the actual function.

    Hopefully more tonight

  8. #48
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    Jason my MMCS comes with no stock subs and amps but do has stock CD changer. If i bought the stock amps and 8 inch sub, do you think it will work with current MMCS set up? you might interested in this guy project https://sites.google.com/site/udcaus/about-udc

  9. #49
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    Really interesting thread!

    The Legnum I just bought DOES have the factory upgraded sound system and Sub - unfortunately either the amp or speakers are all but blown to pieces!

    I'll keep a close eye on this thread!

    Does the Head Unit continue to output audio if the amp isn't on the other end? I was thinking of leaving the head unit intact and installing an after market amp in the boot and I could cannibalize the DIN cable for that.

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Piers1989 View Post
    Does the Head Unit continue to output audio if the amp isn't on the other end? I was thinking of leaving the head unit intact and installing an after market amp in the boot and I could cannibalize the DIN cable for that.
    Hi Piers,

    The head unit outputs a line-level signal to the amp for both the cassette tape and radio inputs. This does not change with volume, the head unit and amp have a serial link going back and forth exchanging data, it's the amp that controls the volume.

    My research into this stalled when I figured out it was easier just to keep the stock head unit and patch in a Bluetooth Stereo receiver (tucked behind the head unit) to the line-level link to the amp, then trick the head unit into thinking a tapes inserted by pushing a pen against the metal lever inside and spinning one of the capstans a little to make it think there's a tape inserted. It remembers one is inserted indefinitely (or at least until the battery is disconnected)

    I have a head unit to fit too but to use an aftermarket head unit with the stock amp will require using a microprocessor to tell the amp the power on / off / adjust volume / tone / balance etc.

    Alternatively, and possibly easier, would be to re-use the DIN wiring (with a pin-out similar to stock to prevent shorting) to send a line-out and remote amp signal from an aftermarket head unit to a 5/6 channel aftermarket amp in the boot. You can either butcher the wiring or make up adapter cables to be able to return everything to stock.

    If your subwoofer is blown, I have 1 repair kit remaining, I can either repair it for you (£50) or post you the repair kit (£10) and you do it yourself.

  11. #51
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    Thanks for your detailed reply!

    I did read that it was a line level link in the earlier posts but didn't take that into consideration with the idea of a non factory amp. I already have a Alpine PDX-V9 and a JL Cleansweep.

    Does the factory amp tend to die? I could use the Cleansweep to take the amplified speaker output, smooth it out and feed that to my alpine amp (These pieces of kit were left in my 335i by its previous owner for the same effective purpose). Providing the popping and half the speakers not working are not because the amp is fried at least!

    Thanks for your offer on the Subwoofer. Do you know the size / spec for it off the top of your head? I was going to upgrade this too but if the factory unit is decent repairing it may be an option.

  12. #52
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    You guys dont have a pin out for the rear amp do you or know where I could get one? Am I right in that the door speaker unit and the tweeter aren't run from a crossover - they are sent separate signals from the amp?

    I tested it with a home cinema centre speaker (dual mids and 1 tweeter) and plugged into the main speaker output it seemed to lack punch, but plugged into the tweeter output it sounded like a full range signal. I would have expected everything other than high frequencies to be cut off but it seemed full range?

    I've started stripping down stuff for investigation. All my speakers and sub are wrecked but I think i am going to replace them all.

    The drivers side tweeter has a damaged connection in the door somewhere.

    I'll make a full thread with writeup for anyone else but for now I just need to know where to take a full range output from for my CleanSweep!

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Piers1989 View Post
    Thanks for your offer on the Subwoofer. Do you know the size / spec for it off the top of your head? I was going to upgrade this too but if the factory unit is decent repairing it may be an option.
    It's a 8" hole but you may need to drill new holes to get another sub to fit. You'll need to get a free air sub too.

    Quote Originally Posted by Piers1989 View Post
    You guys dont have a pin out for the rear amp do you or know where I could get one?
    sub-wiring-diagram.jpg

  14. #54
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    That's great! I thought I had seen one but I couldn't find it. I swear it was linked in this thread earlier but I checked twice!

    More info to follow

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    Quote Originally Posted by foxdie View Post
    Part 2

    So after the events of the first post, I started messing around to try and build a line-in cable, I had some scraps (previous 13 pin DIN male-male loom and a newly purchased 13 pin DIN socket from ebay) and one iteration of this cable (with an incorrect pin layout) resulted in mono sound (or more specifically, that hollow sound from having stereo audio with no ground, each channel cancelling out the common part of the sound). What was interesting however was when I fiddled with the balance (or any of the controls) there was a rhythmic pulsing / clicking, further reinforcing the thought that there was some serial communication going back and forth between the head unit / amplifier / CD changer.

    After that, I started to do some deeper research. I managed to find a nice Google hit which outlines pinouts for a similar Mitsubishi head unit from a 3000GT / GTO which is as follows;

    === This information is not applicable to our cars!! ===

    Attachment 73821

    === This information is not applicable to our cars!! ===

    Although this closely tallies up there is at least one difference; The ACC / Remote is Pin 7 on ours and Pin 6 on the above pinout for the 3000GT head unit.

    Mini-update: After picking up an oscilloscope for a good price from a friend, I definitely managed to establish the fact that there's some 5v TTL serial communication going back and forth between the head unit and the amp;

    Attachment 73830 Attachment 73831
    Hi Jason.
    coz
    Sorry to wake this old thread up. I think I need your help. I am still running Face lift MMCS system in my Galant. And now the stock 10 cd stacker in the boot stop working, said Error 03 on monitor (mechanical problem) but I think that cd changer need new laser optic replacement. So far I dont know what kinda laser optic replacement needed and where to buy it, maybe yu guys in this forum can inform me, I am trying to keep MMCS system as long as possible until it broken beyond repair.

    as alternative solution I bought chinesse made Digital Music Changer as virtual/digital cd stacker replacement even know i doubt they support stock Galant cd changer din coonector pin out. Its Yatour YT-M06 Model, Supplied with 13 pin Din Connector compatible with Hyundai Head unit on 2005-2009 Sonata,2005-2009 Tucson,2003-2006 SantaFe,2003-2008 Coupe 2005-2009 Accent,2003-2004 MAXIMA,2004-2009 CERATO GLS(with MP3 function)

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3297...27424c4dWkHkPj

    Its very hard for me to get info on Hyundai 13 pin DIN connector Head unit pin out. In my MMCS head unit there is 13 to 8 pin DIN din connector converter cable.

    Later on I think Mitsubishi and Volvo use the same cd stacker, to make things easier I bought Yatour Serial cable compatible with Volvo head unit protocol but still wont work with factory MMCS Head unit. I Also still cant find correct info on volvo on 8 pin DIN connector Pin out.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3283...27424c4dWkHkPj

    both Yatour 13 and 8 pin din connector not compatible with MMCS Head unit, but should work. I inted to use yatour serial cable for volvo, so I bought locally, Male and female 8 Din connector for conversion.

    Can you help me indetify Mitsi and volvo 8 pin cd changer din connector pin out? is it possible to match? It would be really nice if yatour working on Mitsu MMCS head unit otherwise its about time to dump MMCS system once and for all and get 10 inch 2 DIN android head unit he he he
    Last edited by ersanalamin; 10-11-2020 at 07:17 AM.

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