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Thread: Coil Pack Testing

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    Coil Pack Testing

    Does anybody know what the values should be when testing the resistance of coilpacks with a multimeter? Just tested mine and they came out ...

    1.) 9.89 kΩ
    2.) 9.79 kΩ
    3.) 9.68 kΩ

    Does this sound in the ball-park? I know the FTO coilpacks should be between 17kΩ and 25kΩ but unsure on the VR4 ones.
    Last edited by dazjb; 27-06-2016 at 09:19 PM.

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    Coil Pack Testing

    I can't remember off the top of my head, but It is in the jap workshop manual.

    http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=718040




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    Thanks Dave, my Japanese ain't that good . Managed to find the figures though hidden in Part 16 .. VR4 coilpack resistance should be between 15.3kΩ and 20.7kΩ. Mine are much lower but all reading similar figures which i find strange

    I'm troubleshooting why I'm not getting any spark from my standalone and want to make sure the coilpacks are good. Does anybody have a coilpack they can measure? The measurement is taken from the ht lead end to the end which connects to the spark plug.

    Cheers
    Last edited by dazjb; 28-06-2016 at 02:56 PM.

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    Last time I measured mine they were within the range you specified above , can't remember the exact number but about 17.5k.
    Are the coil packs you have from an FTO.
    I ask because the normal uk spec galant manual covers the 6a12 engine as fitted to the 2.0l V6 FTO.
    The uk spec galant manual is linked from same thread as the jap workshop manual thread, I think.
    If not search on "manual 26 pdf"
    You



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    Nope, they were supplied with the VR4 engine so assume they are the right ones. The engine was running before it was removed.

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    Coil Pack Testing

    They very similar and the do fit and bolt up to the same points but I believe they have a different resistance range.
    Do you have any pictures?

    They will work, but don't give the same output as the correct coil packs.
    I only say this as it is not common for Sally 3 coil packs to fail in the same way at the same time.

    What is wrong with you car sounds like it is not running at all.



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    Yeah, my car is definitely not running .. its really pi$$ing me off now. What really winds me up is there is a handful of other FTO owners on other sites that I am a member of who have fitted a VR4 engine and standalone ECU but dont seem to want to help me out with the settings. Its not like i'm asking for maps .. just a few settings re the sensors, coilpacks, etc. so I can fire the car up. Thats why I've been asking questions about coil dwell, stepper motors, etc. on here. Its taking me ages, with stupid amounts of research to get all the right info together .. and even then i'm not 100% sure.

    I have fitted a ECUMaster standalone ECU, I have the crank and cam trigger wheels synchronised but im not getting any spark (tested with a spark test light). Before I start delving into the ECU settings im just wanting to make sure the coilpacks are OK. There is an option in the ECU software that can damage the coilpacks if chosen incorrectly, I did originally have this option selected and turned the car accidentally but the coilpacks didnt have the ignition lives connected so wouldnt have thought it would cause any problems.

    Even though the resistance of the coilpacks is lower than it should be would it still make a spark? If it should still make a spark and light a spark test light up then I can move towards the ECU side of things.

    Heres a pic of one of the coilpacks ...


    20160628_194741.jpg

    It has the word 'Diamond' on it and a number FL0165 0328
    Last edited by dazjb; 28-06-2016 at 09:44 PM.

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    you probably have this set correctly but the ECU will have a coil to cylinder setting have you set the option for 2 cylinder for one coil pack, wasted spark setup.

    just a thought.

    the angle that shows the difference in the coil pack is the side that is facing down on you picture.
    the VR4 coil pack has a uniform square top slightly rounded edges to it the other has a large radius on the edge top that is facing down in your pic.

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    It's been set up for wasted spark with the firing order 1-2-3-4-5-6. Here's a pic of the flip side ...

    20160629_082001_crop_695x639.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by dazjb View Post
    Even though the resistance of the coilpacks is lower than it should be would it still make a spark? If it should still make a spark and light a spark test light up then I can move towards the ECU side of things.
    Donno construction of ECUMaster, but in some ecu's you have transistors on ecu end (if coilpack ignition) and by incorrect resistance you brick them all. Just thought...
    Ex: Galant VR4
    Running 268 HP ATW and 443 Nm torque at 0.9 bar
    Now: Lancer Evolution 8 FQ-300
    Running 325 HP ATW and 510 Nm torque at 1.6 bar

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    He is measuring the output resistance.
    It would be input resistance of the coil that would cause issues with the ecu.
    You can measure that as well, I believe the values are in the jap manual in the section 16 under the output resistance numbers.


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    Quote Originally Posted by dazjb View Post
    It's been set up for wasted spark with the firing order 1-2-3-4-5-6. Here's a pic of the flip side ...

    20160629_082001_crop_695x639.jpg
    Is not our firing order 1-3-2-4-5-6 ?? @Davezj
    His FL Legnum VR4 running 238.8 ATW HP and 500Nm @1.05 bar on LPG
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    No I believe firing order is 123456.


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    Quote Originally Posted by dazjb View Post
    It's been set up for wasted spark with the firing order 1-2-3-4-5-6. Here's a pic of the flip side ...

    20160629_082001_crop_695x639.jpg
    the coil pack looks like the correct one.

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    Thanks for the info. Still can't understand why the resistance is much lower on all of them. Could also do with finding out whether the ECU is sending the signals to the coilpacks but since its only around 6 milliseconds i can't pick it up with a multimeter.

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    Do you still have the IFS, or have you bypassed it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by dazjb View Post
    Thanks for the info. Still can't understand why the resistance is much lower on all of them. Could also do with finding out whether the ECU is sending the signals to the coilpacks but since its only around 6 milliseconds i can't pick it up with a multimeter.
    You will need an oscilloscope or automotive diagnostic kit with scope built in.
    You can get cheap plug in oscilloscope the connect to laptop USB and software is the oscilloscope and the are quite cheap from eBay. You can logic analysers that work like this as well.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Confused View Post
    Do you still have the IFS, or have you bypassed it?
    I have removed the IFS, its not something the ECU would recognise.

    Quote Originally Posted by Davezj View Post
    You will need an oscilloscope or automotive diagnostic kit with scope built in.
    You can get cheap plug in oscilloscope the connect to laptop USB and software is the oscilloscope and the are quite cheap from eBay. You can logic analysers that work like this as well.
    Cheers for that, I'll look into it. Would save me a lot of headaches when fault finding

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    Quote Originally Posted by dazjb View Post
    I have removed the IFS, its not something the ECU would recognise.
    So you have run a dedicated 12v ignition feed to the coils? (You haven't just unplugged it!)

    You've confirmed that you have ignition 12v and ground present at the connector to the coil?

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    No, I haven't just unplugged them. I removed the IFS then wired in a +12v ignition to each of them. I do have sensor grounds run to them all as well

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