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Thread: My attempt to rebuild VR4 engine

  1. #61
    Davezj's Avatar

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    that looks good adam 0.02mm -0.04mm is factory standard oil clearance so you are all in spec. good to go.
    you can now lube it of with assembly lube and fit the cradle and then check the conrod big end bearing oil clearance
    Last edited by Davezj; 02-06-2020 at 06:38 PM.

    Bye for Now!

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davezj View Post
    that looks good adam 0.02mm -0.04mm is factory standard oil clearance so you are all in spec. good to go.
    you can now lube it of with assembly lube and fit the cradle and then check the conrod big end bearing oil clearance
    I will need your help, need to measure conrods if they bang on circles, not sure if I remember correctly which one has spun bearing and need to measure all them and find out which one is out of shape.
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  3. #63
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    ok, that can be done with a dial bore gauge, which i have. so not a problem.

  4. #64
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    Today not much happen, just final block clean prior assembly, which will start tomorrow, cleaned deck to get rid of discolouration where head gasket sits, block is dead straight, cant fit smallest feller gauge so it was just pure cosmetic.

    IMG_20200605_170429.jpgIMG_20200605_165852.jpgIMG_20200605_165833.jpgIMG_20200605_165825.jpgIMG_20200605_170436.jpgIMG_20200605_180554.jpg


    Also lube eventually arrived so will have some fun with miss later

    IMG_20200605_180624.jpg

  5. #65
    adaxo's Avatar

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    Another update, been waiting one month for parts ordered in mitsubishi dealer, feel sorry for ppl try to make living by rebuild engines where they need to wait months for parts, but that is for another topic, one size no3 con rod bearing put on hold whole order, but its there so I can carry on with this rebuild.


    IMG_20200711_142846.jpg
    While I was waiting for parts heads being taken apart and some valve lapping job done

    IMG_20200701_163935.jpgIMG_20200701_164024.jpg

    then main event from yesterday, pistons and rings come back together, rings are on loose side in engine bores but still more than half life left on them so they going back

    IMG_20200711_103813.jpg

    then i weight rods/pistons/rings/bearings and was in a huge surprise, 5 originals from this engine weight 905 grams but one which fail and been replaced weight 900 so need to take 5 grams of all 5 to be even, after about 2 hours of grinding, weighing then grinding again and weighting more and again and again i come to this result

    IMG_20200711_135721.jpgIMG_20200711_135919.jpgIMG_20200711_135937.jpgIMG_20200711_140101.jpgIMG_20200711_140748.jpgIMG_20200711_140933.jpg

    then eventually i can measure clearances on condors, lucky enough they all bang on in spec

    One thing worth to mention what I learn hard way, use plastigage which give you reading in middle of scale which is design to, as they not really good on the end of readings, there is four different sizes and as I find out for bearings clearances most accurate is grey one instead of red one which is scaled size up.

    IMG_20200711_144702.jpgIMG_20200711_151448.jpgIMG_20200711_153243.jpgIMG_20200711_160713.jpgIMG_20200711_165218.jpgIMG_20200711_171416.jpg


    Its bottom end eventually together after 8 hours of solid work, I never expect this could take so long but is all here and running smoothly, I can turn it with a 1/2 inch ratchet by one finger, plan for today is to fit oil pump so I can fit both oil sumps and close bottom of the engine to avoid dust getting there.

    Next week heads may be put back together and fitted back on the engine, then 'just' cambelt and aux and swap day come here

  6. #66
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    Today I was hoping to close bottom end for good but over look a two tiny oil pump orings while placing last order from mitsi and now I trying to find right size replacement somewhere in Manchester, hopefully i can find them is some hydraulic shops, so annoyed that I cant just simply walk in to mitsi dealer and purchase off the shelf such a basic parts. Here two missing bits

    IMG_20200721_192724.jpg

    Manual say it needs to be new every time, and i cant reuse them as they been squashed and there is a big chance they not seal properly, oh well another couple of days not make much difference. So to not waste whole eve i fitted rear crank gasket

    IMG_20200721_174908.jpgIMG_20200721_174916.jpgIMG_20200721_175940.jpg


    Then I fitted splash guard

    IMG_20200721_180055.jpgIMG_20200721_180101.jpgIMG_20200721_180908.jpg


    And new water pump, why there's 3 different bolts lengths?


    IMG_20200721_192110.jpgIMG_20200721_192117.jpgIMG_20200721_192706.jpg


    That's for today, good couple hours pass

  7. #67
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    Little update, today I closed bottom end, lucky enough RS components have exact right size and compound (Fluorocarbon Elastomer) of orings in stock, not like mitsi dealer 10-14 day special order, bloody rubber orings, so after 1hr round trip i acquire 50 pcs pack, good to do 25 6A13 engines, here they are feels like at home

    IMG_20200723_141836.jpg


    so the last wipe out with alcohol and oil pump it in place


    IMG_20200723_143640.jpgIMG_20200723_143646.jpgIMG_20200723_145104.jpg


    then oil pick up point, easy enough with ordered previously (month ago) mitsi gasket


    IMG_20200723_145110.jpgIMG_20200723_145430.jpg


    then it was a time for upper oil sump, last look on freshly assembled bottom end, feel kind of relief that I don't need to worry about dust


    IMG_20200723_152417.jpgIMG_20200723_152424.jpgIMG_20200723_154017.jpg


    looks like perfect bead


    IMG_20200723_154025.jpgIMG_20200723_154035.jpg


    i fit my spare lower oil pan as i find out I missing good pan, so not worth a picture, will either buy new, if I manage to find one, or use one from engine to be swapped. So far so good, now waiting for valve oil stem seals to arrive so I can put heads together and bolt them down. Its getting excited now.
    Stay tune.

  8. #68
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    Small update, after another f****up with part supplier, long story short, ordered abroad valve steam seals, arrived wrong ones, try to sort out exchange, no luck, must find different supplier, found one, ordered and 3 weeks later, from my first order, got them so can carry on with this engine.

    fitted new valve steam seals

    IMG_20200806_135655.jpg

    fitted valves back

    IMG_20200807_163354.jpg

    then eventually i can close bottom end

    IMG_20200807_174836.jpg

    while im there also changed camshaft seals

    IMG_20200808_125016.jpgIMG_20200808_125012.jpgIMG_20200807_185859.jpg


    so can finally fit cam covers back, with new seals

    IMG_20200808_151501.jpgIMG_20200808_150529.jpgIMG_20200808_144057.jpgIMG_20200808_144053.jpg

    now its time for cambelt

    IMG_20200808_155934.jpgIMG_20200808_151721.jpg

    mitsi not longer supply seals for cam covers, so little of 6mm EPDM Rubber Foam fits like a glow and definitely do the job

    IMG_20200808_161626.jpg


    It start to look like an engine again, hoping to turn the key tomorrow or at some point next week, fingers crossed


    IMG_20200808_171818.jpg

  9. #69
    TAR's Avatar

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    thats looking really good Adam. I'm sure the first start up will go really well.
    '97 Manual Legnum in silver with some subtle mods

    My first VR4 - '97 Legnum Dark Green & mean ...it was love at first sight - now sold

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by TAR View Post
    thats looking really good Adam. I'm sure the first start up will go really well.
    Believe it or not Im really looking forward to crank it and see how it will run, very excited actually.

    not so much happen today apart from its pretty all together and looks like an engine, have a bit of headache with snapped one of downpipe stud, actually this was the reason I pull engine out at the first place, well, crawl under the car one eve trying to fix one snapped stud on front turbo to downpipe, without much luck, I have a proper look around and what I seen was oil all over pretty much anything, so decision was made and here we are, almost there with fresh DRY engine ready to put in.

    15969979513766468538768268578085.jpg
    15969980160235278385624471852602.jpg

  11. #71
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    IT'S ALIVE!!!

    Sorry for not many updates as past couple of days was a bit of nightmare, put a bit to much on 'to do while im there' list and as I acquired another (completely unplanned) VR4 so I was under huge pressure to finish my black one with this 'new' engine malarkey and be able to move it and make space for breaker one as its illegal to keep it on the road (instead of driveway where major surgery taking place) without tax/mot/ins, and going abroad for holidays didn't help.

    Anyways on to do list somehow make its place
    - new front wheel bearings- done
    - new discs/pads/refurbed brembos- done
    - new 3 inch decat to replace my old 2.5 inch so it matches fujitsubo 3 inch- done
    - refreshing all wiring looms, mainly tidying up my 2 lpg installs, coil on plugs harnesses, delete IFS, and general tidy up- in process
    - redone headlights wiring as its one big mess with cibies different plugs- not even started this
    - relocate batt- not happening yet
    - tidy up rust spots- treated with rust killer
    - redoing/simplifying boost/vac controls- not started yet, bar rid of originall pipes and hoses
    as you can see list going on and on, 2 solid days was spend playing with wires conduit solder cutting wrapping etc etc but is nearly there and allow me to start this 'new' engine

    while i was there, haha; its newer ends, I fitted refreshed clutch, another unit from calder cluthes as previous one was great even with fairly big abuse on daily basis for 4 years and lost only 1.5 mm compared to new one
    IMG_20200810_184458.jpgIMG_20200810_184238.jpgIMG_20200810_174555.jpgIMG_20200810_174550.jpgIMG_20200810_163836.jpg


    and then I was a bit rushing to fit this engine and after a lot of sweet tears and blood it eventually back, all done by my own

    IMG_20200811_195954.jpg

    then another 2 days take to reconnect all in, well almost all, just to be able to move car about, it build oil pressure after just about 20 sec of cranking, then was the moment of true, fire it up, yes it fired up straight away (video to follow) and being noisy/rattly for first couple minutes go through heat cycle and its quiet as mouse, today morning it fire up and again its very quiet and no tapping once. so far I manged to make space for breaker car and thats it for now, off for hols but will update this later for sure
    Last edited by adaxo; 14-08-2020 at 04:00 PM.

  12. #72
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    Excellent, well done. Looking forward to seeing your video.

  13. #73
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    it is an amazing feeling when you do your first engine rebuild.

    well done

  14. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by TAR View Post
    Excellent, well done. Looking forward to seeing your video.
    Thanks
    Plan is to make a YouTube video for public to see my story, hopefully it happen quicker than this rebuild, videos like that take no longer than 10 minutes, yeah my a*** :-)

  15. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davezj View Post
    it is an amazing feeling when you do your first engine rebuild.

    well done
    Exactly it's great feeling, down side is, all that literally DAYS spent on clearing are not visible at all, but I know that I have pretty much new 6A13TT fitted, well every thing that has been reused instead of replacing, is still within factory new spec, and that is great feeling, now can do a proper dyno session and see what fresh engine can do.
    BTW thanks for your advice along the way and tools, without any of this that would never happen.

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