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Thread: My attempt to rebuild VR4 engine

  1. #41
    adaxo's Avatar

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    That is Gr8 yes I need mains nr 4 with mitsi number MD344360
    His FL Legnum VR4 running 238.8 ATW HP and 500Nm @1.05 bar on LPG
    Hers PFL Legnum VR4 COTY see here for full story
    Looking for AMSoil? click here

    living in north west?
    would you like to meet with other VR4 fanatics?
    click here

    My recent and ex Mitsubishi's


  2. #42
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    i had a call back from mitsi dealer.

    all of the parts on my list and your MD344360 bearings are on a 2-3 week lead time.
    i am going to buy all of the parts i need from the mitsi dealer as it will be cheaper than amayama because of the import duty and shipping cost.
    the main dealer will supply the part to me in the UK for the price plus VAT and only charge me shipping cost within the UK. which should be about £20

    if you have a list of parts you need for your build i can order them with mine.
    i will have to pay for the order up front but it is only to e expected as these parts are all special order from japan.

    let me know what you need and i will order them tomorrow.

    Bye for Now!

  3. #43
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    Parts ordered, thanks Dave, hopefully they arrive soon ish, not that im in great rush but bored during this quarantine times.

  4. #44
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    You could turn you attention to polishing the rocker covers just like you polished the plenum.
    can you start a thread on how you did the polishing, as i would like to do this and i don't have a clue where to start.

    oh and when my garden dishwasher is back up and running and travelling is more acceptable, i will be happy to put your heads, block, pistons, camshafts, crank, and all the other bits you need cleaning through the dishwasher, blow them off with compressed air and then give them a light covering of WD40 to stop them rusting. then you can come a pick them up.

    there is a good few days if not a week or so of cleaning required of all the parts for the build, cleaning all gasket surfaces and giving all the oil ways and coolant ways a scrub with the bottle brushes you have. also the tiny hole in the pistons need to be cleaned out with a wire or a really tiny bottle brush, most of the holes from the oil scraper rings should go right through to the underside of the pistons. the holes in the conrods need to be cleaned out, the oil squirters from the crank journals to the cylinder bores need to be cleaned out. each of these squirters has a little plunger valve inside them this must be free moving before the engine gets put back together.
    the crank oil holes need to cleaned out, all the crud needs to be removed.
    the rocker arm cam lobe squirters need to be cleaned out.
    HLA shouldbe cleaned.
    the fuel injectors should be tested and cleans if necessary.


    there is plenty to keep you occupied. LOL

  5. #45
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    I may have to take your offer as was fighting with this from morning and not seeing much progress





    What tablets are the best to buy?

  6. #46
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    Two hours later and crank is ready


    Time for oil pump


  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by adaxo View Post
    I may have to take your offer as was fighting with this from morning and not seeing much progress





    What tablets are the best to buy?
    i first used fairy platinum and put 4 tablets in each wash cycle, but then i went back to stndard tablets and use 6.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by adaxo View Post
    Two hours later and crank is ready


    Time for oil pump

    have you gone down the oil feed holes with a screwdriver or a pic to clear out all the rubbish and crud that has built up at the bottom of the holes. it is black grainy powdery stuff.this crud could get washed out by the oil flow at any time and trash the crank bearings. the oil holes in the crank are drilled at an angle. the hole goes from the hole in the crank to the captive ball bearing that is used to seal the end of the drilled hole. the crud build up is between the ball bearing and the fist crossing point where the of the first oil feed. if you get what i mean.
    i was gobsmacked at how much crud came out of each and every hole in the crank. you need a small thin fine bladed flat screwdiver to push done the hole and rotate it to kind of drill it into the crud and loosen it off.

    the crank journals look clean, but you have to be sure you have not removed any material for the surface of the journal as this will effect the bearing required.
    hope you have not had to go to hard with the sand papering the journals. 1000 grit and wd40 is good combo for freshening up the surface.

    i had some badly damaged bearings on the crank and some bits of the bearing were ground into the surface of the crank journal which looked really bad, but 1000 grit wet and dry + wd40 , cut wet and dry paper into strips as wide as the crank journal and as long as possible so you can wrap it round the crank and do a pull at top then, pull bottom keeping the wet and dry tight anound the journal in a fexible saw kind of motion. do all the journals in this orientation and then rotate the crank 180 degrees and do them all again. this was enough to re
    move all surface blemishes and you can not put much pressure on the wet and dry paper as it will snap if you do.
    so it is a self regulating technique ensuring you do not put to much pressure on the sanded surface.

    sorry for the rambling, just random thoughts and remembering from when i did it first time.
    Last edited by Davezj; 17-04-2020 at 07:35 PM.

  9. #49
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    I did go in oil gallery in crank and look hard for anything in them but didn't find nothing, maybe someone use decent oils and maintain engine well hence nothing is there and maybe your crank/engine was neglected hence that much crud you find out, I don't know, will let you have a look and see yourself or I may look in wrong holes, anyway, I clean only slight discolours where oil channels are in main bearings with metal polishing paste, so not removed any material from crank, just make it evenly shiney.

    Think I found out reason of failure, oil pump wasn't put together as should, little triangle was down instead of up, not sure if someone was there b4 me or its come like that from factory, pump itself is on last legs clearance wise so I consider to fit new one, did you check your oil pump? was little triangle mark on correct side (upwards)

  10. #50
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    I have not taken my oil pump apart yet. But I think I have pictures of my previous one I rebuilt. I will see if I can find any pictures of what you are talking about.
    Remember there are o-rings between the oil pump and block. Make sure these are kept safe if you intend to reuse them. Wash them to remove all oil residue and let them dry out and shrink back to there original size otherwise they can be a pain to fit back in the original grooves.
    Personally I will be using all new seals and gaskets.
    A complete gasket set the engine is the easiest way to go but it can be quite costly at over £300 for the set. But it does ensure you have not forgotten any seals or gaskets you might need.

  11. #51
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    sorry no pics of the disassembled oil pump.
    The crank journal takes oil from the bearing block oil feed and transfers it inside the crankshaft to the conrod journal next to it.
    videos is attached below, you will have to right click it and open it in a new tab and it will download you can then play it.

    remove Crank core plug and clean out.
    remove crack ball bearing and clean out.

    please bear in mind this info is all from memory from about 2 years ago so i could be wrong.

    i think if you go in through the conrod journal you can go diagonally down through the crank past the crank journal hole and towards the inside of the ball bearing blank in the end of the drill hole. the crud builds up between the crank journal and the ball bearing blank as oil does not flow through this area, but centrifugal forces of the crank rotating force any particulate matter into this dead end and it get stuck and builds up over time.
    but i will have to double check on my crank to see if it is actually possible as you have got me second guessing my memory.
    and reviewing the video it is looking like it might not be possible, but i seem to remember doing it.

    the best thing to do is remove the ball bearing blank and clean it out from that end but i was not going to do that, as at the time i did not have the drills and stands to drill through a steel ball bearing and then tap the hole it laves and fit a set screw in its place. i think you can weld on to the ball bearing directly and use the weld to pull on and eventually the ball bearing can be pulled back out the way it went in.
    Last edited by Davezj; 18-04-2020 at 03:19 PM.

  12. #52
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    Little triangle was fitted down



    And there are thickest feller i could squeeze in
    Spec is 0.06-0.18


    Spec 0.04-0.10



    Spec 0.10-0.18 Limit 0.35






    So a this minute I'm not sure if I put it back to service or replace, atm im looking if this can be replaced with engine fitted under bonnet if yes than I will leave it and check pressure while crank.

    btw regarding crank, I have no facilities to mess about with this ball business, I fully understand what you pointing out and agree it could potentially be a crap mine and if it not stay there it could mess up whole build ad you can see on 1st video there was a lot of crap but on 2nd one where guy drill through it not look like it was any crap at all.
    and yes I will replace all seals/o'rings and gaskets while im there, im tight but not that tight they only £2.29 each so it would be daft not to add them and lots of others to shopping list.
    Last edited by adaxo; 18-04-2020 at 04:43 PM.

  13. #53
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    it can be done on the car but you will have to strip everything off the engine from the pulley end, and i think the lower and upper sump might have to come off as well, due to a few bolts from the upper sump that are screwed in from inside the lower sump.
    why not crank the engine off the car to check oil pressure once you have rebuilt the engine. just connect the starter motor up to a battery while the engine is on the engine stand.
    i think it would be possible to do but i am not sure how much stress it would put on the engine stand.

    but if the oil pump is in spec then it is in spec, so it should be good.

    oh by the way you can't get to the gearbox end of the crank to fit the crank seal on that end. you have to take the engine off the stand to fit the seal and screw in the plate that holds the seal then put the engine back on the stand to build the rest of it up. you can borrow my engine crane if you don't have one. but it is a pain to transport, it is a bit big and a bit heavy.

    oh by the way my garden dishwasher is back up and running i have just fitted the replacement PCB i ordered. i have run it through a cycle and all is good.

  14. #54
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    It is in spec but it will be fitted triangle up this time, outer ring tooth will be pushed from other side from now on, have to think if this could be an issue and yes, great idea to crank engine on stand prior fitting to check oil pressure, one worry less to thing off, that s what forum are for.
    I have your crane when times come, we transport it before so its manageable.

    there is very similar engine rebuild video from one of best youtube channels, shame is not in English have a look

  15. #55
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    hi adam i have had another look at my crank and there is not way too scrape out of the crud in the crank, without drilling out the ball bearings. i must have got it mixed with some other parts of the engine i was cleaning.
    sorry for the duff info. i will have to try and remember what i was doing when i found all the crud at the bottom of a hole.

  16. #56
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    There was a lot of crud in pistons especially in oil ring groove and holes.

  17. #57
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    @adaxo,
    i just thought i would let you know i stripped my oil pump and the triangle was up on mine.

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davezj View Post
    @adaxo,
    i just thought i would let you know i stripped my oil pump and the triangle was up on mine.
    Any chance to post measurements and mileage? just to compare wear ratio.

  19. #59
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    yep once i measure the pump gaps i will let you know. the engine has done about 180K miles

  20. #60
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    Small update, spend couple of evenings cleaning block so I can check mains clerances and see if I will cary on with this build, so today time come for block to be enough clean inside and out to perform clerance check on new delivered by Dave (thanks for that) main bearings, as usual pictures tell 1000 words so here we go

    IMG_20200602_144116.jpgIMG_20200602_144122.jpgIMG_20200602_144128.jpgIMG_20200602_144213.jpgIMG_20200602_145627.jpgIMG_20200602_145633.jpgIMG_20200602_145637.jpgIMG_20200602_145641.jpg
    IMG_20200602_151957.jpgIMG_20200602_152509.jpgIMG_20200602_152517.jpgIMG_20200602_152536.jpgIMG_20200602_152803.jpgIMG_20200602_153035.jpg

    Looks like they all in spec, didnt expect to be on tight side after about 100k miles but its only prove that old motors are much better than nowadays engines which are considered good if manage 150k
    Now to make another order with rest of parts to finish it off.

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