Noob owner!

[Jezzza]

Hi all,

Ive purchased a 00/01 Legnum VR4 facelift model (not sure what year, haven't looked too hard)
I'm about to perform a full fluid change
- Engine oil (easy enough)
- ATF gearbox oil (use guide as below)
- Diffs (haven't read guide)
I have mechanical experience, but no experience with Legnum VR4s

Ill be using this guide for ATF fluid change:

https://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showth...-change-(VR-4)

Along with this info:

Automatic Transmission
Recommended Viscosity: Automatic Transmission Fluid
Recommended Specs: ATF SP III
How much you need: 9L
Reccomended Brands: Mitsubishi Diamond, Amsoil
Brands used by other members: Fuchs, Redline, BP
Recommended Service Interval: 25,000 Km - 40,000 Km

Question: Does anyone have specific type of brand and type of oil to use as a substitute for Mitsu Diamond? I don't think we get Amsoil in Australia.
I have seen Castrol and Nulon for a ATF III fluid.. or should I stay away from these?
PS. have also read this thread: https://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showth...ot-just-an-ATF

Before I make a start, I just want to make sure my gearbox isn't stuffed...
The car has around 165,000km (or 102,000 miles), the gearbox changes gears smoothly, without clunks etc. but almost seems "delayed" (not a quick shift) or the gearbox isn't sure whether it wants to change or not. Its hard to describe. But so far, seems like it goes through all gears. Accelerates quick and can really feel power and torque
Could just be me as I'm use to manual cars, and my wifes car is a 2016 Mazda 3 SP25, which changes gears quickly and smoothly without evening noticing (nearly a CVT feel!)

Also can anyone point me to a thread which has similarities between Galant VR4 and Legnum?

Thanks!

[Nick Mann]

Legnum is the wagon, Galant the saloon. They are mechanically the same if they were built at the same time, with the exception of the rear springs.

The change happens around one second after the light on the dashboard changes. In semi auto this is obvious. And repeatable. The change should be smooth though.

Any oil compatible with SPIII should be fine. DexronIII is not fine.

I hope that helps!

[Jezzza]

Thanks.. are doors the same? I'm having trouble finding the weather strip at bottom of glass / top of door so good to know if same as galant, thanks.

Getting fluid from Mitsubishi tomorrow, around $50aud for 5 litres which isn't bad!

[Nick Mann]

The glass is a different shape, which makes the frame a different shape. I don't know about the weather strip, I'd need to compare but I am fairly sure the panel is the same so I would guess it will fit.

[Davezj]

Personally I would go for AMSoil universal ATF.
I am not plugging expensive ATF for the sake of it. I have used other atfs over the years but always found myself going back to AMSoil ATF because in my opinion it is the best for the VR4 auto box.

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[Jezzza]

Im in Australia so Amsoil seems hard to find
Rang a place up today which is supposedly the supplier where I am.. and number is disconnected

[Davezj]

AMSoil is my first choice as it has additional cleaning agents in it and the longevity of use. But as nick said any SPIII grade oil is the correct oil. I have used the Mitsi diaqueen and miller's atf and both seem to be about half the price of the AMSoil so you could change it twice as often and still be at the same price point as the AMSoil atf.


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[Jezzza]

Thanks
I picked up Mitsu oil.. guy ended up giving to me at trade price

How about transmission filters? Looks like mine has one
Can I just buy an off the shelf, or do I need to go through Mitsu?

[elnevio]

Thanks
I picked up Mitsu oil.. guy ended up giving to me at trade price

How about transmission filters? Looks like mine has one
Can I just buy an off the shelf, or do I need to go through Mitsu?

Yeah, I don't think anyone has found an alternative filter to a Mitsi one.

[Jezzza]

My SRS light is on and I think due to turbo timer being spliced into wires??
Can Mistubishi clear it.. or can I clear the fault?

Car hasnt been in an accident or anything as far as i know

[elnevio]

My SRS light is on and I think due to turbo timer being spliced into wires??
Can Mistubishi clear it.. or can I clear the fault?

Car hasnt been in an accident or anything as far as i know

The SRS light can only be reset with the Mitsubishi MUT-II/MUT-III tool. All the other fault lights can be reset with a battery reset. I still think the flashy dash method works for reading the SRS fault codes, which could be a pointer to your potential issue. Could be a dodgy clock spring in the steering wheel.

[Davezj]

When you have had a fault recorded with a flashy error code, SRS light can not be switched off.
But I have an intermittent SRS Light it is due to a dodgy connector at the back of the steering wheel. If I wiggle the connector wiring the SRS light goes off.
So my scenario is not a recorded SRS error just a bad connection.
It is the same as switching the ignition on with no air bag fitted the SRS light comes on but then connect the air bag and switch the ignition on again and the SRS light goes out.
It does on my car, I can't say it is the same for everybody.

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[elnevio]

My SRS light doesn't come on at all now. Something to do with my MoT man telling me that the light being on is a fail, but if it doesn't come on with the pre-start sequence it is only an advisory!

[Jezzza]

Thanks all

Youll be happy to know I successfully complete the ATF fluid change. Easier as.. only issue I had was fluid coming out of the "breather" hose