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Thread: these lights show up

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    these lights show up

    hi all has anyone had this issue its mainly shows up when hot under the hood

    Any help will be appreciated and is it a easy fix
    sorry attachment not working
    but my abs TCL come on solid and the skidding car light flashes every second and the AYC light flashes on every so often
    Last edited by BBVR4; 14-12-2017 at 10:54 PM. Reason: attachment not working

  2. #2
    Nick Mann's Avatar

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    What are the fault codes?

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    i havent got that far yet but after the car has is switched off and has cooled down they not there. And to bring the flashy dash up is to ground pin 1 is that correct?

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    heres a link to whats flashinghttps://youtu.be/kFimv0-OBj0

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    1997 Mitsubishi RVR HSGR : 2.0 4G63T, 4 seats and the seating position from a truck
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    The fault codes will be useful, but given the symptoms, my first port of call would be the grey canisters on the bulkhead and the connections/pipework there. The canisters can crack and the the heat probably gets things going.
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    If the fault codes are 70-something with those lights, then it's likely to be the canisters as mentioned, I had this early on when I got my car, was the same flashing

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    The only code I can make out from that video is 33 (3 long flashes, followed by 3 short flashes) on TCL, ASC and ABS systems, which is related to Stop Lamp Switch. So, that's either the switch itself, or a brake bulb failure (or you've got LED bulbs fitted).

    All stored codes will flash out in sequence and then repeat - I usually sit and watch it until I've seen each code 3 times to make sure I haven't missed any.


    Engine is OK, as that's just flashing at a fast, steady pace, which indicates no stored codes.

    However, there is also no red AYC light flashing - do you definitely have AYC (I'm guessing yes), so has this red light ever come on (and, to that extent, have you ever had the green AYC bars light up)? The bulb for the red AYC light might have been removed to hide a fault with it!!

    And the Neutral light on your gearbox isn't flashing.


    So - first off check your brake lights, then take a look at that AYC bulb

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    Ok thanks last night they came on again and when i finished my shift at midnight they came on straight away and the ayc light came on for a while then went out and flashed every so often for a second and green bars only come on when turning corners just the bottom one tho i will have a look at those thanks again

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    So do you get the red AYC light on the right hand side of the dash? It should come on with ignition, then go off after startup.

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    Yep it does just checked i have no brake lights bulbs are fine

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    And yes ayc does light up and go out on startup

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    All my fuses are fine

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    OK, no brake lights is a good start

    Look up towards the top of the brake pedal, and you should see the brake light switch. It's got a 2 or 4 pin wire into it. Disconnect it, and bridge the two connectors beside each other on the car side - you should then get brake lights.

    If you do, get a multimeter and check the connectivity on the switch itself

    This should narrow down the problem to the switch, or the wiring from the switch into the car

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    i put a test light to it and its a 2 pin the green lights up but push the switch in the light goes off then let it out the light light goes on put the test light in the other wire and it stays lit up when switching on and off and i dont have a multi meter

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    just bridged the connectors still no lights

  17. #17
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    I couldn't remember the colour of the wires - but green rings a bell

    With the switch out (brake pedal depressed) it should make contact, which it appears to be doing so. Your test light will be good enough to diagnose - you'll need to trace back through the wiring to find the point where it stops lighting up...


    Here's the wiring schematic for the brake light:

    stop-lamp.PNG

    The connector on the switch is C-02.

    Power comes into the switch via a 15A fuse and the brown cable, and out from the switch on the green wire. So this far is right.

    From here, it goes into J/C 5 on C-65 pin 28, and out from here to the stop lamps, and the various ECUs.

    This can be seen in this image too:

    stop-lamp-2.PNG

    Connector C-65 is buried up at the top of the dash...

    stop-lamp-3.PNG

    But this is where you want to be looking next - does the lamp light when you probe pin 28 - and does it light when you probe pins 30, 32 and 33?

    This is where the single feed from the brake switch splits and heads off to the ECUs and the brake lights - as all are failing, hopefully you'll have now found which part of it is failing

    If it's still working by the time you get to pins 30, 32 and 33, then there's 3 separate points that have all failed - quite unlikely!


    (Just to confirm, you've definitely not got LED brake bulbs fitted, and do the bulbs light up if you apply 12v directly to them?)

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    brown is the other wire

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    yep no led brake bulbs and i dont have a jumper pack to create a 12v source directly to them

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    OK, the bulbs themselves are less of a concern now - I've known of other Mitsubishi's (such as my dad's Shogun) which had odd issues with the cruise control and automatic gearbox because of LED stop/tail bulbs - they were back-feeding into the circuit, and making the ECUs believe the brake pedal was pressed.

    Continue to trace that green wire up into the dash, and hopefully you'll find where you stop getting the test light lit when the pedal is depressed.

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