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Thread: Headgasket Failure

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    Headgasket Failure

    Flushed the coolant system out with Forte Bio cleaner yesterday and now have a headgasket failure on the front bank - cylinder 4. There was loads of bubbles in the system when I drained it and think this has caused an air lock which then lead to the failure.

    I've took the spark plugs out, all seemed OK other than cylinder 4 which was wet. When I turned the engine over with the injectors unplugged you can see the water mist firing out of the cylinder.

    Having never done a headgasket before is it straight forward enough? I've done most things engine related in the past but never dug down into a cylinder head before.

    Last time I touch any kind of flush!
    Last edited by dazjb; 02-07-2018 at 01:25 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dazjb View Post
    Flushed the coolant system out with Forte Bio cleaner yesterday and now have a headgasket failure on the front bank - cylinder 4. There was loads of bubbles in the system when I drained it and think this has caused an air lock which then lead to the failure.

    I've took the spark plugs out, all seemed OK other than cylinder 4 which was wet. When I turned the engine over with the injectors unplugged you can see the water mist firing out of the cylinder.

    Having never done a headgasket before is it straight forward enough? I've done most things engine related in the past but never dug down into a cylinder head before.

    Last time I touch any kind of flush!
    Before ripping it to pieces i would be 100% first and confirm it with a couple other tests.
    Cylinder leakage test (Chemical die) in the cooling system and check for the presence of exhaust fumes.
    Secondly id do a pressure test with the plug out on the cylinder in question and under pressure confirm that there is water leaking into the cylinder.
    They are not a job for the faint hearted. If your attempting this kind of work on what is a over engineered unit. dismantling and re-assembling there is a proceedure which you need to remember or take notes otherwise you will be fitting things then having to take them off again because you have no access.
    Plus if your sure its the head gasket then bear in mind the rear head gasket presumably has also been on for the same lenght of time, so is it worth only doing one.
    Head gasket kits,timing belt and head bolt are not the cheapest either.
    I've just dont mine so i know.
    Dave O


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    Thanks for the advice. Pretty sure it's the headgasket, there is white smoke from the exhaust, it's chugging along on tick over and you can physically see water spraying out of the spark plug hole when you turn the engine. It ran perfectly fine before I used the flush

    I know it's not a simple job and will be following the workshop manual when I do it. I've done cam belt changes, etc.. done an engine conversion and fitted a standalone ecu by myself so hopefully I'll be able to manage the headgasket.

    The timing belt, pulleys and water pump only have around 4000 miles on them so won't need changing

    I've either got to fix it or buy a new engine and i don't have the money for an engine
    Last edited by dazjb; 02-07-2018 at 03:20 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dazjb View Post
    Thanks for the advice. Pretty sure it's the headgasket, there is white smoke from the exhaust, it's chugging along on tick over and you can physically see water spraying out of the spark plug hole when you turn the engine. It ran perfectly fine before I used the flush

    I know it's not a simple job and will be following the workshop manual when I do it. I've done cam belt changes, etc.. done an engine conversion and fitted a standalone ecu by myself so hopefully I'll be able to manage the headgasket.

    The timing belt, pulleys and water pump only have around 4000 miles on them so won't need changing

    I've either got to fix it or buy a new engine and i don't have the money for an engine
    Ok buddy, if you've done all that work previously you should be easily capable.
    Thats my next step is a stand alone ecu, was it on your Vr4 and if so what would you recommend?

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    I don't have a VR4, mine is an FTO with the 6A13TT conversion.

    I've used an Ecumaster EMU with mine and find it great. The guy who did my tuning said it was a good piece of kit, there are much better out there but for the price they are spot on.

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    great bit of info i will start looking into it for myself 🖒
    Quote Originally Posted by dazjb View Post
    I don't have a VR4, mine is an FTO with the 6A13TT conversion.

    I've used an Ecumaster EMU with mine and find it great. The guy who did my tuning said it was a good piece of kit, there are much better out there but for the price they are spot on.

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    I've read a few posts on here talking about how expensive the head gasket kits are and replacement engine is cheaper. Checked on Viamoto and the headgasket is £53 and a set of eight head bolts £33 give or take. I'm only going to replace the damaged front gasket and get the head skimmed.

    Am I missing something here when it comes to parts needed? The cambelt, etc won't need doing and the rocker gaskets and spark plug seals are only 2 years old.

    I'll replace the cam seals whilst I'm at it as I do have a bit of weeping from them

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    Quote Originally Posted by dazjb View Post
    I've read a few posts on here talking about how expensive the head gasket kits are and replacement engine is cheaper. Checked on Viamoto and the headgasket is £53 and a set of eight head bolts £33 give or take. I'm only going to replace the damaged front gasket and get the head skimmed.

    Am I missing something here when it comes to parts needed? The cambelt, etc won't need doing and the rocker gaskets and spark plug seals are only 2 years old.

    I'll replace the cam seals whilst I'm at it as I do have a bit of weeping from them

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    Hiya pal,
    Just found this for you.... if interrested.
    Please check e-bay item: 163128628265
    Some guy selling engine/complete car minus few bits.
    Just might be what your looking for?
    Dave O

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    Thanks for that bud. Not looking to buy a new engine though, better the devil you know and all that. Would rather get the one I have running properly + it will be a learning exercise, I can take my time as it's not my daily car.

    Did you do the headgasket change yourself? Just looking into whether I need any specialist tools

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    Quote Originally Posted by dazjb View Post
    Thanks for that bud. Not looking to buy a new engine though, better the devil you know and all that. Would rather get the one I have running properly + it will be a learning exercise, I can take my time as it's not my daily car.

    Did you do the headgasket change yourself? Just looking into whether I need any specialist tools

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    No problems matey, just you mentioned the idea with the costs involved and im always checking flebay for a bargain.
    Yes did all work myself.
    I'm just coming to the end of my full engine rebuild.
    After cooking it on the race track with too much boost.
    Pistons melted, lost all compression .
    Its had all new bearings, 2 pistons, rings, hybrid turbos, both heads fully stripped rebuilt, ported n slightly polished.



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    10mm multi x socket for head bolts
    and theres a special tools for timing belt tentioner
    Quote Originally Posted by mitsiboyblue View Post
    No problems matey, just you mentioned the idea with the costs involved and im always checking flebay for a bargain.
    Yes did all work myself.
    I'm just coming to the end of my full engine rebuild.
    After cooking it on the race track with too much boost.
    Pistons melted, lost all compression .
    Its had all new bearings, 2 pistons, rings, hybrid turbos, both heads fully stripped rebuilt, ported n slightly polished.



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    You've been busy!

    Thanks for the advice, done timing belts before so got the clamps and tensioner for that. Got torque wrenches and just ordered a torque angle gauge so hopefully be good to go then once I've got the materials

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    Well any probs along the way just drop a post on here and if i dont reply someone else will to help a Vr4 buddy out.
    Torque settings are:
    30nm + 120' + 120'
    Quote Originally Posted by dazjb View Post
    You've been busy!

    Thanks for the advice, done timing belts before so got the clamps and tensioner for that. Got torque wrenches and just ordered a torque angle gauge so hopefully be good to go then once I've got the materials

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    if it is a front head issue you can do it with engine in the car but rear head i would take the engine out it will be quicker in the long run.

    if you can lock the rear head cam gears and keep the tension on the belt you can bulldog clip the cam pullies to the cam belt then remove the cam pulleys from the cam shafts before removing the head and this makes it easier.

    on the subject of cost if your engine has not been touched in a long time and you are doing the head gaskets you will want to replace all the gaskets, you can while you are in there full gasket set is over £300. and do the cam belt and pulley and water pump. crank oil seal. new upgrade head bolts if you are going for higher boost than 1.2bar.
    If you are doing that then you might as well remove the engine and do the rest of the gaskets. then while the engine is out have a look at the bearing on the crank and the con rods.
    This is why it gets expensive.

    just doing the front head and and skim can be done for about £80 if everything else is fresh.
    but you do have to consider that after skim depending on how much is taken off you will have a higher compression ratio of the front than the back bank.

    Bye for Now!

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    Both heads can be done in the car the rear is a back breaker though

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    His engine is in an FTO guys, so the engine bay clearances will be different.

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    I think he has done a 6a13tt swap in to an fto.

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    Attaching external images

    Cheers for the info fellas.

    Got stuck in tonight and got the head removed.

    I expected to find the head gasket damaged but nothing stands out. Could it be the head that's warped but the gasket has remained intact? Either way I'll be getting the head skimmed, fitting a new gasket and bolts.

    You can see on cylinder 4 that something is amiss, certainly looks like water has been present being all rusty colouredbf2723a027f8e197af236f1813951e42.jpg 7a4a8093b2364208604086d6f669a3ba.jpg d8222a54e113a467f66529db15f5033f.jpg 774d3ca5673925e66a61c0402acf3e85.jpg 5cf983ddced649b8d8ff5523fbf2cb18.jpg
    Last edited by Confused; 23-07-2018 at 07:47 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dazjb View Post
    Cheers for the info fellas.

    Got stuck in tonight and got the head removed.

    I expected to find the head gasket damaged but nothing stands out. Could it be the head that's warped but the gasket has remained intact? Either way I'll be getting the head skimmed, fitting a new gasket and bolts.

    You can see on cylinder 4 that something is amiss, certainly looks like water has been present being all rusty coloured

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    Nice pipework and polishing....
    Im guessing the head gasket is seeping in the blackened areas of the compression ring as it doesnt look blown on either side.
    But.... you do know skimming and repairing just the one head will cause imbalances of compression and that you could be dealing with a second head gasket failure of the rear bank in near future as both heads have done exactly the same amount of work. Your 3/4 stripped and for the sake of another evening and replace both gaskets to me its a no brainer... you will be saving yourself an enormous amount of work and additional costs.
    No. 1 piston crown looks melted in the center on the picture?
    Dave O



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    Was hoping not to do the rear bank as it tests fine compression wise. This engine is fitted in an FTO and would mean engine removal to get the rear turbo out

    Pretty sure the piston isn't melted, just a black mark in the middle, will check properly tomorrow though

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