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Thread: Headgasket Failure

  1. #41
    Davezj's Avatar

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    have you remembered to put the washers on the head bolts.
    the bolts are quite close to bottoming out in the holes so without the washers you could have hit the bottom that will stop you tightening them correctly.

    or could it be you have nt greased the bottom of the head of the bolt and washer and it is dragging on the cylinder head.

    I did a complete engine rebuild with full bearing replacement and went down my own route route with head bolts not factiry and not over priced ARP struds, and have done about 7k miles since the rebuilt and have been running upto 1.5 bar boost and all is hold well.

    Bye for Now!

  2. #42

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    Yes the washers were on and I applied oil to the washers and bolt threads as it says in the workshop manual.

    I did the first 120° turn with the first two bolts and then just loosened them all back off again as I'm not confident they are tightening as they should. Hoping I haven't caused any problems with the bolts or headgasket

  3. #43
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    i would not have thought there would be any issues.
    the 120 Degree turn is stretching the bolt so i would have thought it would be OK.
    However how much material did you have taken off the head when it was skimmed as the material taken off would effectively lengthen the bolt by that much making the possibility of bottoming the bolt in the hole more likely.
    you should only need 2 thou (0.05mm) off the surface as long as it is not damaged the factory max you can take off is 8 thou (0.2mm).
    there are limit blocks on the side of the head which should remain un machined surface but as soon as you start machining these blocks with the head surface the this is the limit on the head. if the surface is not fix by this point the head should be scrap.
    however i have seem heads going 8 thou (0.2mm) past the service limit on a head and it all worked ok. but if you are doing this then you have to take into account you are raising the compression ration slightly and you will have to check the vale clearance to the pistons and adjust if necessary with vernier adjustable cam gears to ensure you have enough clearance when the engine is Hot.

    with respect to tightening the head bolts if you really don't know what has been taken off you heads, you can try and add a second washer on the bolt to ensure it does not bottom out in the hole and do it up again and see if it feels any difference.

    when i picked the bolts i used, they came in 100mm length and the factory stretch bolts are only about 97mm long so before anything else, i had to find some suitable washer/spacer to take up the new 3mm extra length plus the original washer thickness. so that was about 4-5mm. so 3 standard M10 washer will give 6mm spacer. but you do have to make sure they all go the same way as they were punched when they were created to make sure they sit correctly. well this is what i did.

    when i first did the head bolts up on my engine i only put 2 washer on the bolt and it felt a little odd when i was doing the bolts up and i had bottomed out the holes. so i backed out all the bolts took the head back off, covered the block in blue painters tape apart from the bolt holes and i then ran a tap down all the threads in the block just in case i had done any damage and cleaned them out afterwards with carb clearer and compressed air.
    but i was just torquing the bolts upto 58lb/ft as they were not stretch bolt. i did 30lb/ft, 45lb/ft, and it was at this point it felt a bit add and i stopped the torquing the bolts up.

    buti am waffling again.

  4. #44

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    Cheers for the info Dave. My head only had 2 or 3 thou taken off so should be fine. I'm going to check on the bolts first and compare them to the ones taken out.. see if there is a difference in length. I ordered them from Viamoto and they're the genuine Mitsubishi ones, not the copies

  5. #45

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    Did you clean out the head bolt holes in the block
    If you have oil etc in them even a little you will have
    Problems torquing the bolts.
    When you do torque them the oil will eventually work it's way up the threads and the bolt will become loose as the pressure is released from underneath.
    Last edited by lancerevo3; 22-04-2019 at 11:33 PM.
    possibly the clubs first manual super

  6. #46
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    if you have some vernier calipers, you could measure the depth of the hole in the block and then take the depth of the full head and then take off the depth from the top of the head to the top of the head bolt hole. what remains will be the hole depth through the head and the depth of the hole in the block. this should be slightly more than the head bolt body minus the washer.

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