MOT fail

[cwgt93]

My trusty car failed its MOT with aplomb today. I think looking at the failures, it's going to be beyond me money wise to get it sorted, but I'm not too sure on a price estimate. I would expect to pay atleast a grand, what do you guys think?

On a side note, would anybody be interested in purchasing the car as is? The interior is a solid 9/10 black leather. The exhaust system is powerflow and solid. The alloys are OZ super turismo's I believe, with almost new bridgestone F1 tyres. There are new pads and discs fitted with a few hundred miles on them. It's recently had a reconditioned gearbox fitted.

Cheers guys.

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[Amonlym]

Ouch, really sorry to see this Charlie.
MY old car had similar show up on brake pipes, but when they went to remove it all knocked off and the pipes were solid so they refitted them without charge and never mentioned again. you might get lucky there.

For the rest of it, if you can get under it with a needle scaler and clean everything off, you will know what you are dealing with. Strut tops are common, sadly.

If you do get it fixed up, get a serious clean, de-rust and seal done while you still can

[Davezj]

Rear brake pipes are a pain to replace as the rear subframe has to come out to do them properly.
But this gives you a good opportunity to to fix a the surface rust under there and fix any rear subframe mounts issue.
I made my own break pipes as well.
But is not something I would want to do again. As it is a real pain in the arse.
The rest of it is a just a case of grinding the rust untill it is gone, of a the metal is gone.
I would do the rust first as this could be a lot worse than you think

I had to do massive amounts of metal replacement on the front strut towers and theg only had a few spots of surface showing. But once you chip away at it, the rust had just eaten all the metal away from the inside.
And I thought both of my cars were fairly rust free at the front. Not so unfortunately for me.



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[cwgt93]

Ouch, really sorry to see this Charlie.
MY old car had similar show up on brake pipes, but when they went to remove it all knocked off and the pipes were solid so they refitted them without charge and never mentioned again. you might get lucky there.

For the rest of it, if you can get under it with a needle scaler and clean everything off, you will know what you are dealing with. Strut tops are common, sadly.

If you do get it fixed up, get a serious clean, de-rust and seal done while you still can

Thanks, it's a real shame. I've had a look underneath and although it's mostly surface rust, apart from said MOT parts, it doesn't look great. I do love the thing and poured endless hours in making it look as good as it does.

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[cwgt93]

Rear brake pipes are a pain to trace as the rear subframe has to come out to do them properly.
But this gives you a good opportunity to to fix a the surface rust under there and fix any rear subframe mounts issue.
I made my own break pipes as well.
But is not something I would want to do again. As it is a real pain in the arse.
The rest of it is a just a case of grinding the rust untill it is gone, of a the metal is gone.
I would do the rust first as this could be a lot worse than you think

I had to do massive amounts of metal replacement on the front strut towers and theg only had a few spots of surface showing. But once you chip away at it, the rust had just eaten all the metal away from the inside.
And I thought both of my cars were fairly rust free at the front. Not so unfortunately for me.



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Thanks for your contribution. It is quite a predicament. I've been quoted £350 for the brake pipes to be sorted. With regards to the rest, they said it would be an extra £200...IF it isn't much worse than it looks. I'd be happy to part with that amount of money, but I've just got an underlying feeling it's going to be worse than first thought.

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[Confused]

Rust is going to put a LOT of VR4s off the road soon if people don't spend a little time and money preventing it getting too bad - unfortunately, most just drive them with no consideration until the MOT man says "sorry mate, it's a fail" (myself included!)

I am prepared to put in the time, effort and money to repair it, as personally, there's no other car that's comparable to the VR4 that I can buy for anywhere near the repair costs (it'll be a multiple amount more) - and once I'm done, I know I'll still have a brilliant car.

I guess it depends on whether you feel you could replace the car (are you in a mindset where you're happy to move on), and what with (what'll be a suitable replacement)?

Either one will cost you more than the cost to repair your current car (and even do some more preventative work)....

[cwgt93]

Rust is going to put a LOT of VR4s off the road soon if people don't spend a little time and money preventing it getting too bad - unfortunately, most just drive them with no consideration until the MOT man says "sorry mate, it's a fail" (myself included!)

I am prepared to put in the time, effort and money to repair it, as personally, there's no other car that's comparable to the VR4 that I can buy for anywhere near the repair costs (it'll be a multiple amount more) - and once I'm done, I know I'll still have a brilliant car.

I guess it depends on whether you feel you could replace the car (are you in a mindset where you're happy to move on), and what with (what'll be a suitable replacement)?

Either one will cost you more than the cost to repair your current car (and even do some more preventative work)....

Very valid points. It's very disheartening to say the least and has slightly put me off the car. To spend the money I have getting the car mechanically sound and just about at the level I want, for it to then throw this curveball at me, is a bit annoying to say the least. Saying that, it's 18 years old and Japanese, it was always going to rust.

I can justify spending the money on fixing it, and I'm sure it'll be good for a fair few more years to come.

It has made £1000 on ebay at the moment, which is the minimum I'd take for it. No doubt it'll be stripped for bits, which is sad, but none of my business I guess.

I do have my eye on a rather nice Saab 9-5 Aero too which is available shortly and I'm first in the queue for it. Also, a family member's mk 1 Ford Mondeo has been offered to me. May not sound very exciting to most people, but with the V6 engine, a full RS bodykit from factory and in the best colour of dark aubergine, it's about as rare as they come!

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[Tony_T]

Cough **Ford**? How dare you use that language here?!

[cwgt93]

Well I'm pleased to say, I've had the relevant work carried out on my V6 and it's back home now after passing it's MOT with no advisories!

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[TAR]

That's good news.

[Amonlym]

Thats epic news

get it under sealed / cavity waxed Oo

how much did it cost in the end, did you do the work yourself?

[Tony_T]

I'm glad you saw the light.

[cwgt93]

Thats epic news

get it under sealed / cavity waxed Oo

how much did it cost in the end, did you do the work yourself?

Cost me £300 all in from a friend, so not too bad considering! just trying to find a reputable place with regards to undersealing etc. which is proving more difficult! I'm based in the North West if anyone has any recommendations...

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[carfanatic]

Take a look at this. https://www.waxoyltreatment.co.uk/?g...xoCOawQAvD_BwE

[cwgt93]

Take a look at this. https://www.waxoyltreatment.co.uk/?g...xoCOawQAvD_BwE

Thanks mate. I think I'm going to go away from the waxoyl and go for a mercasol treatment instead. I've spent a few hours researching waxoyl and it seems as if it makes the situation worse when there is rust already present, as an eclosed environment creates the perfect scenario for the rust to thrive. Lots of horror stories out there!

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[Confused]

I've heard good things about Krown https://www.krown.co.uk a few local people who have had their cars done.

[Amonlym]

I took my car to a dinitrol place, they do pre-treatment etc too plus mixing impact resistant, self heling etc depending on the area... but its not cheap and really not local to you