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Thread: Under Bonnet Heat Concerns

  1. #21
    mitsiboyblue's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Oblivion View Post
    Do Evo's just have the one oil cooler from factory? Or what do Evo owners do do address any heat issues? Might be relevant I guess.
    I was surprised when I found out our cars didnt have one, but I guess they werent made with any intentions to go racing
    I dont think that Evo 3-9 owners have under bonnet heat issues as their turbos are all front of engine mounted.
    Evo x are rear mounted but there is better bonnet ventilation.
    Yes your right, our vr4's were not really intended to be race cars for the track but more as a powerful touring car.
    It is the thoroughbred of the 4 wheel transmission and heritage of the evo that has..... i think pushed people to the race track with these.
    And in doing so we have found out many of the VR4'S weaknesses.


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  2. #22
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    It's really wonder how some knowlegde gone forgotten with time...
    Been there 7-6 years ago, posted here how I did reduce oil, coolant and underbonnet temps, and now... here we go again...
    It doable if yopu stick to few principles:
    - oil cooler with thermostat sandwich plate (Mocal, at 82C), on top switchable fan +12v from cabin operated switch (in case hard track use)
    - thicker coolant radiator, options are either 40mm, 45mmor 50mm from Evo, mounting points to relocate, lower temp thermostat (HKS one 62C or similar)
    - Evo style vented bonnet, vent is directly above front manifold and helps to lower temps there
    - heat insulation wrap on turbo manifolds, elbows and downpipe, helps a lot with rear turbo section, turbo heat blankets are also helpful.
    - heat insulation wrap on intercoler pipes

    What you need, is to reduce temp of turbo area and top engine (coilpacks are sensitive for overheating), evo style vent is all you need to be honest. And for fluids just as above.
    You don't need to rise a bonnet, it actually disrupts air flow as been proven in Evo (search MLR).
    Extra ducts also have very little effect, quite compact engine bay area.
    Ex: Galant VR4
    Running 268 HP ATW and 443 Nm torque at 0.9 bar
    Now: Lancer Evolution 8 FQ-300
    Running 325 HP ATW and 510 Nm torque at 1.6 bar

  3. #23
    mitsiboyblue's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by swinks View Post
    It's really wonder how some knowlegde gone forgotten with time...
    Been there 7-6 years ago, posted here how I did reduce oil, coolant and underbonnet temps, and now... here we go again...
    It doable if yopu stick to few principles:
    - oil cooler with thermostat sandwich plate (Mocal, at 82C), on top switchable fan +12v from cabin operated switch (in case hard track use)
    - thicker coolant radiator, options are either 40mm, 45mmor 50mm from Evo, mounting points to relocate, lower temp thermostat (HKS one 62C or similar)
    - Evo style vented bonnet, vent is directly above front manifold and helps to lower temps there
    - heat insulation wrap on turbo manifolds, elbows and downpipe, helps a lot with rear turbo section, turbo heat blankets are also helpful.
    - heat insulation wrap on intercoler pipes

    What you need, is to reduce temp of turbo area and top engine (coilpacks are sensitive for overheating), evo style vent is all you need to be honest. And for fluids just as above.
    You don't need to rise a bonnet, it actually disrupts air flow as been proven in Evo (search MLR).
    Extra ducts also have very little effect, quite compact engine bay area.
    Thanks for all your info, i did find some past posts but its always nice for some fresh ideas if theres any about.
    The heat wrap..... i wish id thought on about this before putting my turbos back on. Oil cooler cooling fan on order and will try to find a good place for a temperature control switch to make it automatic but with my oil filter cooler kit and oil filter re-located infront of the gearbox,.... im not sure?
    Dave O

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  4. #24
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    As a side note, just curious if you're using anything to monitor temperature while on track?
    Daily driver / circuit car / drag car / show car / weekend cruiser / project car

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oblivion View Post
    As a side note, just curious if you're using anything to monitor temperature while on track?
    Yes i have oil temp gauge in the car but its located at the filter and not on the engine. think i need a better reference point?

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  6. #26
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    I think that should be fine. I was just going to say when i was getting oil temps over 120 and water over 100deg that the stock engine temp gauge was still showing normal...

  7. #27
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    The standard water temp gauge is very damped in the middle - anywhere from ~85 to ~105 degrees and it'll sit rock-solid in the middle.

    If you want to keep heat out of the engine bay, get the manifolds, turbos and exhausts wrapped. Keep the heat in the exhaust system as much as possible

    You don't want to start messing with bonnets, spacing the back edge up etc, you might even find that, as the bottom of the windscreen is a low pressure area, you'll make the airflow through the engine bay (and radiators) worse than better.

  8. #28
    mitsiboyblue's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Confused View Post
    The standard water temp gauge is very damped in the middle - anywhere from ~85 to ~105 degrees and it'll sit rock-solid in the middle.

    If you want to keep heat out of the engine bay, get the manifolds, turbos and exhausts wrapped. Keep the heat in the exhaust system as much as possible

    You don't want to start messing with bonnets, spacing the back edge up etc, you might even find that, as the bottom of the windscreen is a low pressure area, you'll make the airflow through the engine bay (and radiators) worse than better.
    Thanks guy's, i wouldn't have thought about it that way

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