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Thread: Troubles once turning up boot

  1. #21

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    In my earlier posts i mentioned it misfired on higher boost right through to redline after 4.5k but have re-read the post and agree it wasnt very clear !

  2. #22

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    Will be doing fuel filter tomorrow and will go from there. Anyone running a rising rate FPR and if so what is your idle pressure set at ?

  3. #23
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    Idle pressure should be set to 3 bar with the hose disconnected.

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by Confused View Post
    Idle pressure should be set to 3 bar with the hose disconnected.
    By hose disconnected are you referring to the vacuum line?

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by GriffEdward View Post
    By hose disconnected are you referring to the vacuum line?
    I am, yes

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by Confused View Post
    I am, yes
    Just curious why is it you have to set it with vacuum disconnected?

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by GriffEdward View Post
    Just curious why is it you have to set it with vacuum disconnected?
    It's set with the vacuum hose disconnected so that you always have a 3 bar differential to manifold pressure. This is also a consistent point to calibrate it to.

  8. #28

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    Have done the regulator and done fuel filter today with no change could it be a bad Maf?

  9. #29
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    Do you have any fault codes at all? If a sensor is failing, it could cause similar issues. Different vehicle I know, but I had a misfire in a similar RPM range on the RVR with a dodgy cam position sensor.

    In any case, fault codes is a good shout if you haven't already pulled them
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  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by elnevio View Post
    Do you have any fault codes at all? If a sensor is failing, it could cause similar issues. Different vehicle I know, but I had a misfire in a similar RPM range on the RVR with a dodgy cam position sensor.

    In any case, fault codes is a good shout if you haven't already pulled them
    On that note! (cam sensor) is it worth checking that the timing belt isn't abit too slack. ive had the belt silica tentioners leaking in the past and under inspection the oil loss was the cause of a sloppy belt. Its just a thought.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

  11. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by elnevio View Post
    Do you have any fault codes at all? If a sensor is failing, it could cause similar issues. Different vehicle I know, but I had a misfire in a similar RPM range on the RVR with a dodgy cam position sensor.

    In any case, fault codes is a good shout if you haven't already pulled them
    Only fault code i have found is speed sensor i believe

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by GriffEdward View Post
    Only fault code i have found is speed sensor i believe
    You will get that code if your stock speed limiter has been removed by way of cutting the respective speed sensor wire to the ECU. Doesn't affect anything else.

  13. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by elnevio View Post
    You will get that code if your stock speed limiter has been removed by way of cutting the respective speed sensor wire to the ECU. Doesn't affect anything else.
    Stock speed limiter has been removed so that'll be it ! Have found a Maf lying around in my garage will chuck it on and pray :/

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by GriffEdward View Post
    Stock speed limiter has been removed so that'll be it ! Have found a Maf lying around in my garage will chuck it on and pray :/
    Did the MAF fix your problem?

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  15. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by mitsiboyblue View Post
    Did the MAF fix your problem?

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
    The Maf i had lying around was even more broken that the one i had before , am currently on the hunt to find a maf, going to try and find time to pull the intake off and have a look at the plugs at the back and replace leads to try and narrow the issue down

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by GriffEdward View Post
    The Maf i had lying around was even more broken that the one i had before , am currently on the hunt to find a maf, going to try and find time to pull the intake off and have a look at the plugs at the back and replace leads to try and narrow the issue down
    You think this might be your problem?

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  17. #37
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    If the plugs havent been done, then it's no bad thing to do as a matter of course anyway.

    The rear bank generally gets hotter anyway, so can accelerate general wear and tear in that region compared to the front.

    Also, some less-thorough owners/garages have been known in the past to change just the front bank plugs, as it only takes minutes compared to the additional time involved in removing all the gubbins required to access the rear bank, so unfortunately, the condition of the front plugs is not necessarily the good indicator of the condition of the rear plugs that you would hope it to be!

  18. #38

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    Plugs

    The rear bank generally gets hotter anyway, so can accelerate general wear and tear in that region compared to the front.
    Thats why Mitsubishi quote several different plugs for Front Bank and Rear Bank as standard (also depending on location/country)
    MS851358 x 3 STANDARD: BKR6E-11 1996/06 - 1997/03
    MS851861 x 6 STANDARD: PFR6J 1996/06 - 1996/12
    MS851728 STANDARD: K20PR-U11 1996/06 - 1997/03
    MD322771 STANDARD: PK20PR11 1996/06 - 1997/03
    MD313443 x 3 STANDARD: PFR6G-11 1996/06 - 1997/03
    MS851506 x 3 STANDARD: PK20PR-P8 1996/06 - 1996/12

    If it was mine I'd just put platinum or iridium all round

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