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Thread: Serious rust found - what are my options?

  1. #21

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    received_504375116754012.jpg

    received_2084758118283391.jpg

    received_260390904874906.jpg

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    Thanks guys, this is the subframe I have been offered is it in good enough condition to have stripped patched if need be and powder coated to be used?

  2. #22

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    He has confirmed it is from a galant cr4 pfl

  3. #23
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    It's difficult to tell from the photos, but it looks a lot better than yours!

    The VR4 that has the same subframe as the Talon in your previous post is an older VR4 than ours and it won't fit.

  4. #24

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    Going to get the subframe today,
    Get it blasted this week, have a good look at it then have it powder coated white, I want to coat everything white underneath as I repair bits so I can see any oil or rust appearing or dribbling down anywhere,

    Or should I just have it all black? I don't want it to be seen and don't think it will unless you get on your knees to look under the car.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by lancerevo3 View Post
    Tbh id strip all the bad parts off first before buying anything else for it.
    Majority of rust repair will turn out to be a bigger job than expected once stripping parts starts.
    The rust you cant see is going to be the biggest issue.
    May turn out to be cheaper to buy a new shell
    I agree completely. Don't go buying any bits until you know exactly what the lay of the land is. Then, make a list, check it, and then start getting stuff.

  6. #26

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    For £40 I thought why not, stripping all the underside of the car is gonna be a big lengthy job I think, if I need a shell are the non turbo v6 legnum UK made cars? Therefore does that mean they should be free from rust?

  7. #27

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    All are JP made i think, same factory with only USDM cars non JP. a V6 is only useful for doors/wings, the floor is different on VR4's AFAIK (extra space for prop shaft, transfer box, rear diff, rear drive-shafts and all the **** to mount them ot the car. this also means the tank is different I think some of chassis work is too, being more heavily reinforced). All the cars are equally susceptible to rust, its the design of the panels, lots of layers and folds reliant on sealer or paint to protect them with essentially nothing but the low corrosion steel (*not* stainless) in key areas to keep you going once the seal is gone.

  8. #28

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    20190329_150016.jpg

    20190329_150020.jpg

    20190329_150058.jpg

    20190329_150031.jpg

    Before I have it painted and put it on the car, is there anything anyone recommends I replace or change, do, alter to make it good? Bushes? Etc?

    Thanks in advance guy's
    I'll get there eventually, I really want to keep this car, I'm hoping to have a full respray this year with engine out the lot, thinking of going a nice Mercedes Aston Martin kind of executive darkish grey???

    Any colour preferences here?

  9. #29
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    Just thought I would ask.
    Is that a sandblasted finish only.
    No sealer or primer or anything like that.
    If so you can expect it to start rusting again within hours of the blasting being done.
    Just sitting in the air will start it rusting then you will have to have it blasted again before you have it power coated other wise it will just rust again from under the powder coat
    Once sand blasted, your item should be cleaned to remove the blasting media and immediately sprayed with some kind of sealer to stop the moisture in the air attacking the freshly reviled metal.
    This is just a word of warning.

    Bye for Now!

  10. #30
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    needs some immediate protection after blasting.
    I would change the ARB bushes.

    '97 Manual Legnum in silver with some subtle mods

    My first VR4 - '97 Legnum Dark Green & mean ...it was love at first sight - now sold

  11. #31

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    Once painted slight surface rust will be sealed in, I'll get it blasted again before coating as it won't cost a penny extra but I doubt they'll do it anyway, how will I know if I don't? I wont and that's people's attitudes today, as I said once sealed it won't rust if damaged it will rust but once damaged it will rust anyway like all steel on the planet,

    Can anyone expl8why there us a longish length of damaged rubber along the bar in one of the pics I posted? Is it stock? Can i replace it? Also can the big bushes that mount the subframe to the car be replaced? Sourced?

    I didn't know it but a friend of mine paints cars, he's agreed to take on the legnum after inspection providing the damage isn't ridiculous, he's going to paint my Peugeot 205 GTI which will be for sale, most of that money will be spent on the legnum, reading some posts about power etc shocks me, why do people find it so hard to believe 500 600bhp from a 2.5 v6 is impossible, yet there are 1.6 saxos 1.4 Renault 5s 4 cylinder knocking out that power no problem? It's metal, engineering and how much money you have, personally I'll be happy with around 400bhp, I'm hoping a fabricator can help me with either a single turbo or larger twin turbo conversion, not much available for these cars.

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Layton1985 View Post
    how much money you have
    This is the main reason why.

    There's not a large number of these cars around - there never has been. The engine has only ever been used in this one, uncommon, relatively not-popular car.

    The engine was never sold in massive quantities. It never made it to America. It wasn't Mitsubishi's primary performance car/engine even when it was being made (that honour went to the Evo/4G63T and the GTO/6G72TT). It was never raced.

    All of these factors (and more I've not mentioned) means that there's never really been anyone bothering to push the engine. So there's almost no development been done. There's almost no replacement, uprated parts. There's no market in place to drive requirements and requests for these products.


    So anyone who wants to get big power, has to reinvent the wheel every single time. And a few people have done that.

    Richard Batty had a 6A13TT engine in his drag racing FTO, and he got a pretty decent peak power from it, but he reached a point where it was cheaper for him to start again with a 4G63 than to continue pushing the 6A13, due to the massively larger range of parts available for the 4G63 - because that's an engine that's been in a huge number of vehicles all over the world (especially America), for many years, and has been in a lot of competition cars too.


    But, because there's no market for selling performance products for a 6A13TT - certainly not at the cheap prices VR4 owners want (because lets face it, a lot of us mostly have these because they're cheaper to buy than an Evo or other more common performance vehicles) so if anyone wants to try to recoup some of the cost of making something - not only for themselves but in a way that's possible to make it "mass"-produced (I'm even talking replicable quantities of 5-10, not 1000s) - they'll have to charge a lot of money, which I would say that a lot of VR4 owners aren't prepared to pay.


    With that being said, if you're prepared to spend some money, we'd love to see it. If you're able to do something in a way that allows you to also sell on your designs and assist the community to get big gains from this wonderful engine/car, then that'd be great too. We need and want options.
    Last edited by Confused; 15-04-2019 at 08:06 AM.

  13. #33
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    The highlighted are noted as "Stopper", upper and lower

    rearsusp.PNG

    Part numbers MR235621 and MR235624

    You'll also see that the lower arm shows the rubber "arms" that run along the bolt.

  14. #34

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    A lot of parts can be used from other more popular vehicles, once the internals are forged and strong enough, everything else can be used off other cars I've read specs for example from 1.6 civic engine yes it's popular but is irrelevant when they are using Aston Martin this, Suzuki gsxr that, evo the other part, cosworth parts etc, like I said I'll be happy with around 400bhp, is there not anyone on here that's a welder fabricator that fancied swapping the tdo3 for tdo4 n then made a jig to wack out a few more? Stainless piping is dirt cheap the money is in the labour but if your doing it for yourself it's time, then if you are a member of a club n don't mind knocking a few out for the community then that's great, a friend reckons a day or 2 work on first one then a few hours to repeat on a jig, BUT it's getting him to do it, like getting a mate round to have a look at the boiler, yeah I'll pop round this weekend, then weekend after etc sorry mate been really busy n all that lot,

    If I can get him to do "IF" I'll take it off the car and either let someone copy it or make a jig or I'll perfect my tig and try to do a few myself at cost of parts n postage, I'm not greedy, I just want a few more horses for my car n if anyone else does then I'll try my best to help as cheaply as possible, I never get the same return ever but that's life, wired a friends extension for free, didn't get a kiss my arse or anything,

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Layton1985 View Post
    A lot of parts can be used from other more popular vehicles, once the internals are forged and strong enough, everything else can be used off other cars I've read specs for example from 1.6 civic engine yes it's popular but is irrelevant when they are using Aston Martin this, Suzuki gsxr that, evo the other part, cosworth parts etc
    You've again hit the nail on the head.

    That information is only known because these engines are POPULAR, and there's plenty of people/companies wanting to do this kind of investigative work to figure out what works and what doesn't. The VR4/6A13TT is NOT popular. It never has been, it never will be. So no one has ever gone to the effort (aka cost) to figure this stuff out.


    If you truly do have a mate who can knock out a full blown turbo conversion in a couple of days, then sign us all up.

  16. #36

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    He's a fabricator welder so will only be doing the exhaust pipework, he's not a tuner, if it takes more than a few day's to measure, cut and weld tiny pipes then there's something seriously, wrong I had a full system made in an hour from somewhere in skelmersdale a few years ago, I'm sure these engines were in other cars? I may be wrong, can't check now just about to take off

  17. #37
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    6a13tt is definitely only in the galant and legnom vr4.
    There is a 6a13 n/a 2.5L V6 sohc which is completely different engine and there was a 2.0L V6 dohc in the fto 6a12.
    And I think there was a 6a12tt in an earlier version of the galant.
    And of course the 4g63t in an earlier version of the galant.

  18. #38

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    If a car rusts in the long channels that run the length of the car underneath, it's sent to a body shop they repair all the holes and rust convert all the areas they can see rust, seal and paint it all, is it inevitable that the rust will always come back? As there is likely to be a bare rusty patch somewhere in a hard to reach area somewhere,

    I'm at a crossroads now where I need to decide whether to keep this legnum, completely strip it to a bare shell and have it repainted or buy a fresh good example like the 2 currently on Ebay at the moment, but even they may have tiny bits of rust in places ready to erupt in the future??

  19. #39

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    If you can get rid of all visible rust ,put the car
    Together and enjoy.
    If you can't get rid of all visible rust and put it together then yes at some stage it will come back .
    If your buddy can fabricate all the necessary bits for turbo conversions in a few days ,then you should have his hand off and do it .
    possibly the clubs first manual super

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