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Thread: what could this be

  1. #1

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    what could this be


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    Nick Mann's Avatar

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    What age is your car?

    Mine did that with a snapped output shaft.

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    Gear box is not connected to the drive line any more.
    Yes snapped out shaft would do that.
    Or if you have refitted the gear box you have forgotten to put it back in.
    More info needed to form a better response.
    A bit of background on the problem for starters.

    Bye for Now!

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    https://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showth...pping-no-power

    here is the history ... i am pretty sure its burn`t clutches ... or bad oil crapped it

    what do you guys mean by output shaft

    1) Engine to Torque Converter
    2) Torque Converter to gear
    3) Gear to front diff and Transfer case
    4) Transfer Case to Rear Diff

    there is no drive power at all

  5. #5
    Davezj's Avatar

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    Gear box to transfer case.
    the input and output shaft speed sensors are on to of the gear box and the speed sensor that drives the speedo is at the back of the gearbox.
    by the looks of the video all these sensor seem to be working.

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    Surprised the autobox isn't going into safe mode!.
    But that would probably mean a physical damage that a sensor isn't picking up, like a broken or stripped shaft.
    Updating Soon!! 1998 Legnum VR4, fully serviced every 4500 miles. Fully Amsoil'd. Falken 453's, EVO 8 FQ320 rear diff.

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    Davezj's Avatar

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    That is a very good point louis , if there was damage inside the gear box like friction material trashed or contaminated with something other than ATF the gear box would know if the input shaft was turn at the wrong speed for the output shaft speed and put the auto box into limp mode.
    if you have a failed sensor the auto box goes into limp mode (flashing N and only 3rd gear selectable).

    it could be that the auto box is perfectly fine, it is just not transferring the power to anything. there does not seem to be any grinding noise that you would expect if gears teeth have failed or splines had been stripped, and it can be seen from the video that the gear box changes up through all the gears into 5th so the gear box seems to be working when there is no load on the output.
    well that is what it looks like to me.
    so yes that would push even more towards a output issue.
    you should be able to remove the gearbox side drive shaft and look at the end of the output shaft to see if it moving when the car is in gear and then pull the output shaft out to check for damage.
    Last edited by Davezj; 21-03-2019 at 12:10 AM.

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    Just for the sake of asking .. can i run only the front 2 wheels .. that is if i remove the shaft from the front transfer case to the rear differential .. and some how seal the front transfer case so that it does not leak oil .. can this be done ? or will i get some thing similar to what is happening now ?

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    It's a lot of work and you will have the same problem as your gearbox is no longer able to transfer power to your driveline
    possibly the clubs first manual super

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    Alright so I just changed my gearbox. Had this spare one lying around for about an year or so. It has the same part number. Took me about a day to install it. Removed almost all the oil from the new transmission and torque converter. Installed every thing back on the car. Put in 8 Liters of Mitsi SP3 in it. Started the car up. Put in another 1L. The dip stick shows a different level every time i dont know why that is

    Replace the Torque Converter , gear box, front diff aka transfer case

    now the car seems to be driving fine. but when it is in 5th gear and i start slowing down the car goes into 4th with a bit of jerk. and then goes into 3rd and the Neutral light starts to blink.

    again i shutdown the car start it up. Every thing seems perfect as soon as the car down shift from 5th (Jerk & deley) goes into limp mode.

    can this be due to low transmission oil or is 9L in enough?

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    apply the flashy-dash method and gather any codes set by the gearbox - that is the best place to start.
    My *guess* would be a sticking valve in the valve body, but that is a pure and total guess.

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    ill do that ^ next .. didnt want to drive the car because i dont have another gear box now .. another friend also guessed into a faulty solenoid. The problem is not the shifting i seem to be able to reproduce the issue now

    no matter if in tip-tronic or in auto mode whenever the car move from 4->5 it take about 2 seconds .. and as soon as the 5th gear light turn on exactly 10 seconds after that it goes into limp mode

    measured the 10 seconds with a stopwatch 3 times.

    My mechanic said that we are still low on atf 9L and he still wants to put more in :/ ... could this problem be due to a chocked external atf filter .. but again every thing from 1-4 4-1 auto or tip and R are silky smooth
    Last edited by iftekhar.frt; 22-03-2019 at 07:13 AM.

  13. #13
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    It is possible that you need a matching ecu. The spare gearbox might have the same part number but there were three different ecus for that gearbox depending on build date. Do you have the ecu or details of the donor car?

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    Also, this is what I did to mine, it may be possible to repair your original gearbox:
    http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showpos...0&postcount=35

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    Make sure you check your ATF level when warm, engine running and selector in N. Should be bang on the HOT line
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  16. #16
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    As a starting point.
    Check the fluid level, if it's hard to tell the level then it probably does not have enough.
    When you clean the dip stick and then push it down the tube to check the level, when you bring it out, if it is difficult to tell you are probably only seeing fluid it has gathered in the dipstick tube.
    When you have actually dipped in the fluid it is very obvious.

    next I would agree, flashy dash and check the code, then go from there.

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Mann View Post
    Also, this is what I did to mine, it may be possible to repair your original gearbox:
    http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showpos...0&postcount=35
    in almost all the case i have read in the forums there was a clunk.. but not in my case .. the car was driving and lost power in matter of 1-2 Days .. just like the last days of a clutch in a manual .. i was at stop light when it finally failed and didn't want to move

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    Some one also suggested that the gearbox had been lying around for about an year .. give it a day or 2 may be things smooth out

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    Quote Originally Posted by Louis View Post
    As a starting point.
    Check the fluid level, if it's hard to tell the level then it probably does not have enough.
    When you clean the dip stick and then push it down the tube to check the level, when you bring it out, if it is difficult to tell you are probably only seeing fluid it has gathered in the dipstick tube.
    When you have actually dipped in the fluid it is very obvious.

    next I would agree, flashy dash and check the code, then go from there.
    how much of an overfill is safe .. i have put exactly 9L in ... can i just experiment with adding 0.5 liters ?

  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Mann View Post
    It is possible that you need a matching ecu. The spare gearbox might have the same part number but there were three different ecus for that gearbox depending on build date. Do you have the ecu or details of the donor car?
    you just shocked my heart .. it literally skipped a beat .. i have no history of the doner car but the part numbers are same

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