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Thread: what could this be

  1. #21

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    pics of the newer gearbox.... all the electronic seems to be ending on the valve body ..

    1) should I replace the solenoids or the complete valve body from the previous gear . (or stay away from this realm)

    in the attached pictures below you can see that there are 6 solenoid .. do they work like 1 for each of the Drive gears and one for R .. or is it a combination of these solenoids ?

    btw thank you for the quick replays guys

    IMG_7014.jpgIMG_7015.jpgIMG_7018.jpg

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Amonlym View Post
    apply the flashy-dash method and gather any codes set by the gearbox - that is the best place to start.
    My *guess* would be a sticking valve in the valve body, but that is a pure and total guess.
    When ever i start my car after the (N flashing limp mode) the car goes out of limp mode.. so when am i supposed to do the flashy dash method & how. is following method correct ?

    1) Wait For the car to go into limp mode
    2) Dont turn off the car
    3) short pins 4-0
    4) wait for the codes on dash board
    Last edited by iftekhar.frt; 22-03-2019 at 02:22 PM.

  3. #23
    Nick Mann's Avatar

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    It is pin 1 and 4.
    https://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?45151
    It should store the code even if turning the car off and on resets the gearbox. I'd try it as normal rather than try and connect wires with the engine running. You can short pins 1 and 4 and leave them shorted. The lights are annoying when stationary but once moving the dash returns to normal.

    I wouldn't mess with the solenoids personally. I'd want to understand it properly before I messed it up!

    Why not remove the bell housing and have a look at the centre diff and output shafts?

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Mann View Post
    It is pin 1 and 4.
    https://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?45151
    It should store the code even if turning the car off and on resets the gearbox. I'd try it as normal rather than try and connect wires with the engine running. You can short pins 1 and 4 and leave them shorted. The lights are annoying when stationary but once moving the dash returns to normal.

    I wouldn't mess with the solenoids personally. I'd want to understand it properly before I messed it up!

    Why not remove the bell housing and have a look at the centre diff and output shafts?
    The no drive problem was in my previous gear box .. i have already changed that gear box (found nothing broken) .. the flashing N problem is in my new gear box which when ever goes into 5 th gear exactly 10 seconds after that goes into limp mode.. other shift are fine

  5. #25

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    Did the flashy dash and the TCU code is 45 .. dont know what that means .. where all the transmissions 5 speed ?

    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1mk...fNBYCV-Pv3QpWw
    Last edited by iftekhar.frt; 23-03-2019 at 08:24 AM.

  6. #26
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    Yes, all VR-4 autoboxes are 5-speed.

    Could it be a box from a 4-speed 4WD car, such as an ST or ST-R? I wouldn't have thought it would have worked as well as it does (with the obvious exception of 5th), but then am not aware of anyone having tried it so have no actual evidence to go on.

    EDIT: I think some of the JDM auto ST-Rs may have been 5-speed, but really can't recall presently.
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  7. #27

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    Problem fixed .... now shifts into 5th perfectly ... was a bad Solinoid ... surprised that the flashy dash method did not point me towards it..

    Any how thank you for your time guys ...

  8. #28
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    Well done sussing it out, pain in the ass having to open and close and drain and refill etc!
    Updating Soon!! 1998 Legnum VR4, fully serviced every 4500 miles. Fully Amsoil'd. Falken 453's, EVO 8 FQ320 rear diff.

  9. #29
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    for the benefit of anyone else who has the same issue, could you refer to your previous picture and tell us which solenoid was faulty?

    '97 Manual Legnum in silver with some subtle mods

    My first VR4 - '97 Legnum Dark Green & mean ...it was love at first sight - now sold

  10. #30

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    if viewing the car from the front Its the top most right side .. ill upload a video when we were checking the solenoid soon
    Last edited by iftekhar.frt; 24-03-2019 at 09:27 AM.

  11. #31

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    Last edited by iftekhar.frt; 24-03-2019 at 05:21 PM.

  12. #32

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    you dont need to take out the complete box.. Just remove the turbo pipe and radiator fan

  13. #33
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    Nice one! Kudos to you. And as Tim says, an explanation of what you did would be awesome and useful for the next person who has the issue.

    I realise the loss of drive was your previous box. However, to my mind that should be a simple mechanical problem as the speedo was working and there was no actual drive, then the problem must be on the output stage of the gearbox or the input side of the transfer box.

  14. #34
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    Attachment does not open on Google on android phone.
    Not sure if it opens for anyone else.

    Bye for Now!

  15. #35

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    this was very similar to ours https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HVm1AmWS98&t=704s .. will help in upgrading the wave spring

  16. #36

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    Referring to the original post and the first gear box i think this was the problem. PIcture/Video is of the input side of the transfer case


    THIS I THINK IS THE PROBLEM: The outer most gear seems to the stripped ( I think this is for the front wheels)
    what do you guys think of the center one is that fine ? ( I think this is for the rear wheels)
    the most inner smallest one is for the front axcel that seems perfect to me

    can this be repaired?
    So I guess my gearbox was not faulty ?
    comparing to this video mine does not look that different
    btw can some add to this : https://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showth...se-label-these


    https://drive.google.com/open?id=10p...fOpuX4QA0p_O6X
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1GP...1iKbcpj6JOI2H-



    IMG_7322.PNG
    Last edited by iftekhar.frt; 03-05-2019 at 02:17 PM.

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