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Thread: Idle issues

  1. #21

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    Ok, to clarify I never moved this adjustment screw. IMG_20220410_185736_525.jpg

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    The screw I have been adjusting is this one as per the instructions that came with the actuator. IMG_20220410_191156_373~2.jpg

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    Your coolant temp is reading good.
    Your target idle is reading good, too.
    Your TPS is reading roughly correct at idle - around 12%. Have you done the "idle position switch" check/calibration with a multimeter & a feeler gauge?




    When you enabled the Idle set mode, did the ISC steps lock to around 22 (ish)?

    Do you notice a change in idle speed as the steps change (or vice versa, if the steps change, do you notice a change in idle speed)?

    You'll never get fault codes through EvoScan, always do flashy dash

    Not quite sure what's going on, really - it seems strange that it does

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    Quote Originally Posted by Confused View Post
    Your coolant temp is reading good.
    Your target idle is reading good, too.
    Your TPS is reading roughly correct at idle - around 12%. Have you done the "idle position switch" check/calibration with a multimeter & a feeler gauge?




    When you enabled the Idle set mode, did the ISC steps lock to around 22 (ish)?

    Do you notice a change in idle speed as the steps change (or vice versa, if the steps change, do you notice a change in idle speed)?

    You'll never get fault codes through EvoScan, always do flashy dash

    Not quite sure what's going on, really - it seems strange that it does
    I'm not sure I understand the question, but I couldn't see the actuator position because you can't datalog at the same time as having it in idle set mode. You only seem
    to be able to choose one or the other. However, when I put it in idle set mode, the idle speed changed from 1500rpm to 700 with my old actuator. I then put the new actuator on to see if that was better. Initially the idle speed was 500rpm, I locked it and adjusted it to 650rpm. then unlocked it and it went upto 1200rpm. Do you think it could be a MAF issue?

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    Just a bit of background to how I've ended up here. I bought the car about 12 months ago. The engine was running fine, in the boot was a brand new sealed actuator. I pulled the old one off because I thought, I might aswell fit the new part. but the new one was too far extended and wouldn't fit. so I refitted the old one, but noticed there was more rotational play in the old one than the new one. Later on I found out the actuator could be moved manually so I did this and refitted the new one. In november I had a one off issue with the car stalling when trying to set off. After 20 mins of this strange behaivour I unplugged the MAF and plugged it back in and it ran fine. later in november I had issues with cold start, the revs seemed too low and the car would stall unless I warmed it up using the throttle to increase the revs. Once it was warm it ran at the correct RPM. Ive been doing other jobs on the car so it hasn't been running since december, while it was off the road I had the MAF re-soldered. I really need this car back on the road now. I'm desperate. If anybody can help with advice or put me on to somebody who can, I would be very grateful. I honestly dont know where to turn. Are there any specialists in these cars I can talk to?

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    It's been a while since I've done the idle adjust mode, I couldn't remember whether it continued to log - I thought it did, and you could see the current RPM vs Target, as well as the steps.

    As for specialists - we're in a bad situation with these cars in the UK that there are basically no garages who know anything about them - the knowledge is here, from the members of ClubVR4.

    Remote diagnosis and troubleshooting can be difficult, but we'll continue to try! However, sometimes, getting hands on a vehicle is certainly easier! A lot of us will be meeting up next month, so a perfect opportunity for some free labour and getting plenty of eyes on it! (And, some other cars to potentially swap parts off for further diagnostics!)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Confused View Post
    It's been a while since I've done the idle adjust mode, I couldn't remember whether it continued to log - I thought it did, and you could see the current RPM vs Target, as well as the steps.

    As for specialists - we're in a bad situation with these cars in the UK that there are basically no garages who know anything about them - the knowledge is here, from the members of ClubVR4.

    Remote diagnosis and troubleshooting can be difficult, but we'll continue to try! However, sometimes, getting hands on a vehicle is certainly easier! A lot of us will be meeting up next month, so a perfect opportunity for some free labour and getting plenty of eyes on it! (And, some other cars to potentially swap parts off for further diagnostics!)
    Ah cool, that sounds good. I do need to get it through MOT and get some welding done, so hopefully I can make it. I was trying to get this issue sorted before taking it for MOT, but I dont this this will stop it passing. I do tend to think it is a matter of setting it up correctly rather than a faulty component.

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    Surley the must be some Evo specialists that would be fairly familiar with these cars, other mitsubishi cars must be relatively similar.

    Maybe Mike at Viamoto will know somebody.

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    the fact when I Iock the idle speed actuator on MUT, the rpm becomes correct, is leading me to believe it is something to do with that. The issue seems to be when it is unlocked it should stay at the same rpm but it then rises.

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    So long as it's still reading the right fuelling with the idle higher, then it shouldn't fail an MOT on that - but talk to them and say that you know it's idling high, but you need to drive it to get it to a specialist! I've found some testers can be just fine with things like that if you talk to them first

    An Evo specialist should, in theory, be able to have an idea - but I have unfortunately found that many of them don't even want to begin looking at something that's not exactly an Evo, despite being extremely similar

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    Quote Originally Posted by CHESHIRECAT View Post
    Just a bit of background to how I've ended up here. I bought the car about 12 months ago. The engine was running fine, in the boot was a brand new sealed actuator. I pulled the old one off because I thought, I might aswell fit the new part. but the new one was too far extended and wouldn't fit. so I refitted the old one, but noticed there was more rotational play in the old one than the new one. Later on I found out the actuator could be moved manually so I did this and refitted the new one. In november I had a one off issue with the car stalling when trying to set off. After 20 mins of this strange behaivour I unplugged the MAF and plugged it back in and it ran fine. later in november I had issues with cold start, the revs seemed too low and the car would stall unless I warmed it up using the throttle to increase the revs. Once it was warm it ran at the correct RPM. Ive been doing other jobs on the car so it hasn't been running since december, while it was off the road I had the MAF re-soldered. I really need this car back on the road now. I'm desperate. If anybody can help with advice or put me on to somebody who can, I would be very grateful. I honestly dont know where to turn. Are there any specialists in these cars I can talk to?
    The warm up stalling issue is similar to my own and after spending close to a year replacing sensors and parts finally discovered the issue was 100% the MAF. I have now had a couple of months of fault free starts and runs perfectly after having the soldering work . The soldering may not have sorted your problem as it might be the diode ( not sure if that is the correct name, small visible exposed wire size of a staple) on the MAF that is the issue. If there is some way you can find someone with a spare MAF, even just for a short loan while making a swap testing you will at least know for sure. If I lived closer or had a spare I could help out.
    The issue with the MAF is that it didn't completely fail or break but became intermittent causing a headache. Unplugging as you have tried does highlight the issue, I also found slightly tapping the MAF a few times (not punching) while the engine is running sometimes made a difference ( probably not the best advice). I also found moving the idle screw even a mm with the faulty MAF made things worse where as with the repaired MAF I was able to make a very slight quarter turn adjustment to raise my idle speed.
    Hope this helps in some way.

  12. #32

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    just to say that i was able (its tricky, tho) to do this the reverse way, monitor the isc position constantly and adjust the screw, first to get idle near to target then to get isc to position of 20 at idle. takes bloody ages since the isc control doesn't move fast in this situation - but it does appear to work. bad idle control didn't impact my lambda etc, those all came out fine (but did get a note that hot idle was higher than expected on the emissions page - sat about 920 for me). bad idle did barbeque my atf tho!

  13. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by Confused View Post
    Your coolant temp is reading good.
    Your target idle is reading good, too.
    Your TPS is reading roughly correct at idle - around 12%. Have you done the "idle position switch" check/calibration with a multimeter & a feeler gauge?




    When you enabled the Idle set mode, did the ISC steps lock to around 22 (ish)?

    Do you notice a change in idle speed as the steps change (or vice versa, if the steps change, do you notice a change in idle speed)?

    You'll never get fault codes through EvoScan, always do flashy dash

    Not quite sure what's going on, really - it seems strange that it does
    I tried running this test but the setup looks different on my car the 4 wired sensor is on the other side of the throttle body. And a three wired one is in the position shown on the video.IMG_20220413_182952_107~2.jpg

    Sensor A goes from 0.5 kOhm's from closed throttle. To 4 kOhms full throttle.

    Sensor B which has the black and r/y wires like in the video has 23 Ohms at closed throttle and then no continuity as the throttle opens.

    can anyone enlighten me what the 2 sensors are? and maybe why the setup is different. PFL vs FL perhaps. My car is PFL.

    I assume one is thrttle position switch and one is sensor. On evoscan the idle switch is showing the state as 0 for on/off. And this isn't changing when I rev it. Which is worrying but a lad on FB the other day told me evoscan doesn't always pic this up correctly.
    Last edited by CHESHIRECAT; 13-04-2022 at 07:13 PM.

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    Pre-facelift auto with TCL has a Throttle Position Sensor (3 pin) and an Accelerator Position Sensor (4 pin).

    The idle switch will be on the APS and should still be the same colours.

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    Thanks Garry, thats what I thought. I've editted my previous post with a note about the idle switch status in evoscan. Does this seem correct to you?

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    Have never seen it give feedback in EvoScan myself.

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    Idle speed seems to have sorted itself out. Not sure if it self corrected or its down to the warmer weather.

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