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Thread: Stripping rear subframe

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    Stripping rear subframe

    Tomorrow I will hopefully start to strip the rear end of the legnum to replace the rear subframe and all the bushes with energy urethane bushes, my plan is to have all parts that are not too corroded powder coated white,

    I chose white because it can't be seen so doesn't matter regards being seen but mainly because every now and again when I pop my head under it will be easy to see straight away any oil, fuel leaks etc and whether there is any rust developing as there will be obvious brown strains.

    I will post pictures of the process and a link to suppliers of parts I need to replace, I will be fitting evo brembo brakes with drilled and grooved disks, may even purchase tein suspension if the chassis is in good condition and my bank account allows it.

    While I am u der the car I will see what guards need replacing, does anyone know if they are still available? From where?

    Thanks

  2. #2

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    As you can see the subframe is so rotten it has split, just praying it hasn't eaten into the chassis too much and can be saved.

    20190115_143317.jpg

    Can anyone tell from this picture what the main parts are here and whether it's part of the subframe that has broken n the parts can be reused with new bushes or whether I need to purchase the new parts? What they are called?
    20190115_143338.jpg

  3. #3
    peter thomson's Avatar

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    Its one of the suspension arms that has been damaged where the anti roll bar mount is. They often fail but a few of us have strengthened that part with a washer welded in to make it more resilient. Especially needed if you have uprated antiroll bar fitted
    Ask a simple question, never receive an answer these days

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    Ahh right, I think from the picture there will be nothing to weld to so I may need a new one altogether but will consider welding a washer to it before fitting so I don't have problems in the future,

    I have looked for updated anti roll bars but can't find any for sale, not sure what size they are as I need to order the bushes separately for the arb but waiting until I know what arb I'm using

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    peter thomson's Avatar

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    You can still get cusco bars from RHD japan last time I looked

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    You're a star, thanks for that, I've never heard of that site before and they sell a lot of items for the legnum, below is a link to the site with the Cisco rear anti roll bar for anyone else that is interested.

    https://www.rhdjapan.com/cusco-rear-...ec3w-ec5w.html

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    Starting to scare me a bit now this car, I've spent a bit of money on quite a lot of new spare bits from drilled n grooved disk n pads all round, brembo calipers, full energy Bush kit from the states, fuel ratio o2 sensor thingy, Perrin boost controller, fuel pressure regulator off nick mann, timing kit, amongst other things I've forgotten all in a box waiting to be put on the car, seriously wondering if the car is scrap metal or not?

    Some right dossers have owned this car, fancy not spending a few quid getting it sealed and look at the calipers! Literally just painted over everything in situe, probably didn't even give em a quick wipe over either.

    IS IT WORTH SAVING? What do you think honestly?

    20190627_084130.jpg
    20190627_084143.jpg
    20190627_084150.jpg20190627_084221.jpg
    20190627_084136.jpg

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    It's down to the condition of the main body, and what bits need welded.
    all the suspension arms and bushes and brakes etc can be replaced.
    Brake pipes can be a pain to replace and route through etc, but remember lots of things, all suspension, etc can be replaced or uprated.
    You have a subframe .
    Keep posting photos, but you will know yourself if the body has gone too far!.
    Watching with interest

    A couple of guys have gone to extremes, lol!. Kenneth, Did a full chore out thang, and a Polish guy on here, whose name I can't remember did a full powder count all the suspension arms etc.
    Search isn't great but you can stumble across things.

    (ps, when fitting the rear brembos, you may need to use a couple of oversize nuts on the rear brembo calliper bolts, as the bolts are too long and will start to hit)
    Updating Soon!! 1998 Legnum VR4, fully serviced every 4500 miles. Fully Amsoil'd. Falken 453's, EVO 8 FQ320 rear diff.

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    peter thomson's Avatar

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    The sill closing panel is very thin and they often fail but they are are an easy fix

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    I'll get the subframe off and have a good wire brush all around underneath, I'm going to need to replace some of these arms, links etc that build up the subframe, when I type the item number in Google "41350a" for example it's coming back as Mitsubishi lancer on some sites etc, delivered from Japan so I really don't want to order the wrong part n not be able to return it due to language barrier plus postage etc

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    41350a is a drawing reference, not a part number. You should be able to click on that somehow to get to the part number which will usually be two letters and six numbers, like MD123456.

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    Ahh right, thanks for that, does anyone have a parts catalogue? Would be useful and quick for future reference, when you need one tou need it quick if it's failed

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    '97 Manual Legnum in silver with some subtle mods

    My first VR4 - '97 Legnum Dark Green & mean ...it was love at first sight - now sold

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    Thanks for that link, I don't have my vin number at the minute, is it in polish the site?

    Does anyone have a scrapped legnum vin number I can borrow to search the site for parts?

    I have read swinks evo 8 body restoration, he sent it to his friends in Poland for a very good price, I would definitely consider sending my car there if they feel they can source the parts needed to repair it,

  15. #15
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    I use amayama.
    You can pick the basic type from the list:
    https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-c...an/legnum/EC5W

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    Thanks Nick, I will have a good look at that, there are a lot of models, never heard of most of them, is that part of the cin number all those numbers?

    Screenshot_20190629-092137_Samsung Internet.jpg

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    Yep.
    I would guess yours is the LYGF3 variety, but it would be worth confirming on the car before you order stuff. The vast majority is the same across all VR4s but there are differences on some parts.

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    For the link I posted, just use the following (no need for VIN number)

    Japancars.ru.PNG

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    Can't get on Japan cars now, 502 bad gateway, will try again later

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    Thanks for the help, I'm gonna click on the link now and look so hard at stuff

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