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Thread: Cambelt tensioner

  1. #1

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    Cambelt tensioner

    Well today I have tackled my cambelt and water pump etc and it’s been peeing down most of the day but I wanted to finish cambelt so I could sleep easy and finish off tomorrow so pumps on and refitted cambelt and all was ok but the auto tensioner wasn’t going in got bottom bolt and then tried to lever it to get top bolt and was nowhere near so tried different ways and nothing so checked belt teeth etc and all looks good so tried again and snap goes the lil piston in the tensioner! I just don’t understand I done everything methodically and lined the tensioner pulley up pretty accurate to how it was it Just didn’t seem like there wast any room for the piston to be there as it was pretty much the body of it pushing on tensioner!? so guess I gotta fork out for one of those now but can someone tell me what is wrong and how to get over it I got my idea how to but might be wrong
    I actually think the cambelt was originally pretty much bodged by someone tbh
    Any info or guides will be much appreciated!
    Cheers guys!


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    seems to be a common thing to get a V6 (SOHC) cambelt when ordering a V6 (DOHC) belt (and, hilariously, vice versa!), this makes the belt too short. Worth checking this, and also the routing to make sure nothing was on the wrong side of belt.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Amonlym View Post
    seems to be a common thing to get a V6 (SOHC) cambelt when ordering a V6 (DOHC) belt (and, hilariously, vice versa!), this makes the belt too short. Worth checking this, and also the routing to make sure nothing was on the wrong side of belt.
    I must have triple checked route before even putting the tensioner on and the belt was from viamoto and had vr4 etc written on the packet


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    MANUAL SUPER
     
    Did you seat the rod back into the tensioner using a vice and lock it with a rivet or something similar before trying to install it?
    possibly the clubs first manual super

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    Quote Originally Posted by lancerevo3 View Post
    Did you seat the rod back into the tensioner using a vice and lock it with a rivet or something similar before trying to install it?
    Yep done all that and somewhere I read it need to be done slowly or can damage it and I locked it in place with a pin
    Because it’s such a big job I made sure I was so thorough with every detail I could!
    It just seemed there was no gap at all for the rod I’m not sure but maybe the tensioner pulley part needs to be repositioned maybe


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    The tensioner pulley is eccentrically mounted and needs to be in the correct orientation when refitting. The mounting bolts for the tnsioner can be really difficult to put back if the tensioner bearing is badly adjusted. Most people will orientate the pulley and tighten it off the car but it should really be done after the tensioner is fitted.
    '97 Manual Legnum in silver with some subtle mods

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    Quote Originally Posted by TAR View Post
    The tensioner pulley is eccentrically mounted and needs to be in the correct orientation when refitting. The mounting bolts for the tnsioner can be really difficult to put back if the tensioner bearing is badly adjusted. Most people will orientate the pulley and tighten it off the car but it should really be done after the tensioner is fitted.
    Yeah that’s exactly what I thought I should have just stopped when I thought something was wrong then it probably wouldn’t have been an issue as I would have attacked it today on a clear head but you live and learn so gonna order new one tomorrow and then fit it then adjust tensioner pulley nip it all up and carry on with the guide I did watch some YouTube vids with Misti engines with same auto tensioner and they done it while on the car so guess I’ll do that!
    Thanks for all the help
    #legends



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    As above.
    needs adjusted on the car. Make sure when you fitted the belt that ALL the slack was on the tensioner side, so belt and timing marks all line up and then slack is adjusted with the tensioner and pulley.
    well done, pain in the ass job, but a big tick in the getting things done box
    Updating Soon!! 1998 Legnum VR4, fully serviced every 4500 miles. Fully Amsoil'd. Falken 453's, EVO 8 FQ320 rear diff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Louis View Post
    As above.
    needs adjusted on the car. Make sure when you fitted the belt that ALL the slack was on the tensioner side, so belt and timing marks all line up and then slack is adjusted with the tensioner and pulley.
    well done, pain in the ass job, but a big tick in the getting things done box
    That’s what I thought! Maybe the guide should be altered or something as I just thought well that’s what it says and “snap”
    Yeah my cams are locked and belt is pretty tight down the water pump side but will check it all again once my part is here and being fitted!
    It is a pain especially having to move all the pumps and mount just to get to a water pump bolt but I’m sure once it is done and back all together and running I will feel a massive sense of achievement as it’s been a very long time since I done a cambelt! I think it was on a mk3/4 escort which was a lot simpler
    But being able to not worry while driving is gonna be nice and my water pump was absolutely fubar so was other tensioners really so done at the right time me thinks!

  10. #10

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    Just a quick question when do I remove the cam locks? As I locked both off but guide doesn’t really say when to take them off?
    Do I need to clip belt to cams and then remove before tensioning? Or can I do it after and obviously before rotating engine!?


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    the clips can be left in place and removed before manually turning the engine over 2 revolutions. Check all still lines up, if not repeat setting and tensioning.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TAR View Post
    the clips can be left in place and removed before manually turning the engine over 2 revolutions. Check all still lines up, if not repeat setting and tensioning.
    Cool thankyou I just worry I’m gonna do something wrong and screw my engine up!
    Do you know Why it says to move crank sprocket one tooth back anti-clockwise? Just all has been locked off and not moved at all so it’s all lining up sweet at the mo! Or could that change after 2 rotation and rest?
    Also what’s best way to torque the crank pulley back on? Can I lock pulley off somehow
    Thankyou TAR


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  13. #13
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    I'm not sure which guide you are following but if everything lines up and still does so after 2 revolutions, there is no need for further adjustment.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TAR View Post
    I'm not sure which guide you are following but if everything lines up and still does so after 2 revolutions, there is no need for further adjustment.
    It’s one on the forum I just searches cambelt change and it was one of the first ones done by someone called Richie rich I think!?
    But that’s what I thought as what’s the point having a timing mark if your gonna move it off of it!? didn’t make sense to me tbh!
    Well part turned up today so hopefully get it all on and back together tomorrow


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    Half a notch should be enough. It's because the crank moves back as you put the tension on.(thanks Nick)
    Won’t let me reply to post 12

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    Do crank pulley up as tight as you can and did you double seal water pump ??

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    Quote Originally Posted by galantnight View Post
    Do crank pulley up as tight as you can and did you double seal water pump ??
    Ok cool thankyou! And I used the gasket and a sealant on the water pump on both sides of gasket and torqued up plus a lil pinch to make sure!
    The one I took off just looked like it only had bathroom silicone on it



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    hi

    can you tell the part numbers you got? and where you got them from ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by iftekhar.frt View Post
    hi

    can you tell the part numbers you got? and where you got them from ?
    I got everything from viamoto website just go on there mate it has the part and part numbers all on there!


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  20. #20
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    That’s good like saying goes you learn from your mistakes but in this case it was not me who unfortunately put it all back together for it to leak because didn’t double seal it up but was good enough to past it on so I did not do the same
    Good luck with the rest



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