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Thread: Stalling when in drive auto? Any ideas

  1. #21

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    just as an update, I have just had a similar issue and mines manual now, no lights or anything and I swapped my fuel pump out for a walboro prolyl 2 months ago,i chages this issue down to a vacuum leak, it was intermittent I literally pulled over on the way to work and searched roadside for it while it was doing it, the vacuum leak was the tcl solenoid, it works fine and tests fine until it gets hot then it holds open, so maybe have a look at the tcl solenoid or the next time its doing it just plug the hole on the vent for the tcl solenoid, not sure if this will help you but I thought it might be worth noting.

  2. #22
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    Thanks Glyn, It hasn't happened again yet, but I have a list to things to check when (if) it does, cheers Louis
    Updating Soon!! 1998 Legnum VR4, fully serviced every 4500 miles. Fully Amsoil'd. Falken 453's, EVO 8 FQ320 rear diff.

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by Louis View Post
    Hi folks.
    I’m out in car all is good. I park for 40 miniutes afyer a 20 minute drive.
    I start the car and all is good.
    It revs freely in P and in an.
    I put it into drive and start to drive off and it starts to stall.
    I won’t go over 2k revs and stutters and stalks when I try and drive.
    If I try and hold four steady AR 2k to progress it does kind of lunges, surges.
    I’m going to park up and grab a coffee and come back to it.
    Any ideas or experience of this appreciated, cheers Louis
    My Legnum suffered with exactly the same symptoms two days ago except mine was from a cold start and after standing in my garage for a week.
    Revs great in park , but pulling away with even the slightest pedal in drive or rev felt like it was starving the fuel and stall..
    If I did manage to get it moving it was fine under constant acceleration at speed ( I guess less strain under motion) but problem returned when having to stop and pulling away again .
    Good plugs, battery, connections ,wiring, air filter clear. Fuel pump may be the issue but no past signs of issues going up steep hills.
    It fortunately cleared after persistently trying to drive for half an hour in a car park . Symptom suddenly cleared as if there was crap in the fuel system and problem hasn't returned (yet)
    Just ordered a new fuel filter and will be adding redex or cataclean to the fuel. Typically wont know if this will fix the problem unless the problem returns in the near future.
    Has your problem returned since?

  4. #24
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    Hi Simon,
    I never got to a full conclusion, what I did do was go through my small vacuum hoses and replaced a few of them that were loose on the pipes. I also changed for a new ifs ignition fail sensor as they are known to give up and cause problems.
    I also found a crack in the plastic pipe that comes off the rear of the front rocker cover ( beside the ifs).
    It hasn’t done it since, so it could have been any of those things.
    I did suspect a coil pack but haven’t changed them and it hasn’t happened again.
    Other poss causes in thus thread are worth checking as others have had similar problems and found these other causes to be the case.

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by Louis View Post
    Hi Simon,
    I never got to a full conclusion, what I did do was go through my small vacuum hoses and replaced a few of them that were loose on the pipes. I also changed for a new ifs ignition fail sensor as they are known to give up and cause problems.
    I also found a crack in the plastic pipe that comes off the rear of the front rocker cover ( beside the ifs).
    It hasn’t done it since, so it could have been any of those things.
    I did suspect a coil pack but haven’t changed them and it hasn’t happened again.
    Other poss causes in thus thread are worth checking as others have had similar problems and found these other causes to be the case.
    Thanks for the reply and help Louis. Good to hear your problem hasn't returned. Cheers.

  6. #26

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    Unfortunately a new fuel filter and cataclean additive didn't fix the problem as the stalling while pulling away in Drive issue suddenly returned last night after a month . As before after half an hour of trying to pull away and reverse suddenly cleared the problem to get me safely home.
    Am going to try the TCL solenoid option next. Would anyone be able to help point out exactly what hoses are worth cleaning out or blocking off for testing as some go to the vacuum solenoid and others to the grey barrel. Sorry for my lack of knowledge on this, I don't want to block off the wrong ones when testing or disconnect and clean too many pipes.
    I also noticed that Viamoto is selling MD165142 Emission control solenoids, is this the same as a TCL vacuum solenoid ?
    Many thanks in advance

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by Davezj View Post
    you can check the for a MAF issue by just unplugging the MAF and going for a drive the ECU will just use some basic fueling tables to keep things safe. but if it drive you will know you have a MAF issue.
    Intermittent issue reared its ugly head again last night. Was hoping that the new fuel pump fitted by Dave at the last garage day over a month ago fixed the problem.
    Also recently replaced Fuel filter, spark plugs and new injector seals.
    Decided to test the MAF sensor today and unplugged it with the engine running and went for drive. Was expecting it to cut out but only ran a little richer.
    Should it be able to do this as looking at online videos show the engine immediately cutting out when disconnecting on other cars highlighting a failed MAF sensor?

  8. #28
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    With the MAF unplugged, it falls back to a very basic Throttle Position Sensor based airflow table, which allows it to continue running, even without a valid MAF signal.

    This is very useful, as it gives us a common troubleshooting technique for these cars - if it improves without the MAF, then the measured airflow isn't matching what the engine is seeing. Quite often this is an air leak (loose pipe, damaged intercooler etc), but sometimes it can be the MAF itself has failed.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Confused View Post
    With the MAF unplugged, it falls back to a very basic Throttle Position Sensor based airflow table, which allows it to continue running, even without a valid MAF signal.

    This is very useful, as it gives us a common troubleshooting technique for these cars - if it improves without the MAF, then the measured airflow isn't matching what the engine is seeing. Quite often this is an air leak (loose pipe, damaged intercooler etc), but sometimes it can be the MAF itself has failed.
    Hi, thanks for the quick reply and help. I wouldn't say it improved but definitely wasn't worse.
    Being an intermittent problem I am always having to trying to fix a problem while the car is running ok as the stalling and stuttering last night lasted around 30 min or so and clears as quickly as it appeared. It could return in a week or a month after driving most days.
    I did take a look at the sensor and it looked quite clean but didn't have the appropriate cleaner to do the job properly and instead put it back together and took it for a drive.
    Have been noticing recently that if I rev the car in park and quickly take my foot of the pedal it idles very low and sometimes stalls. Could be connected.
    Probably worth me giving it a clean or hopefully get a replacement.

  10. #30

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    Could anyone suggest a preferred good mass air flow sensor cleaner.
    Saw a couple on ebay 'Liqui Moly Air Flow Sensor Cleaner' and 'CRC Air Sensor Clean' among others but not sure if is safe for our cars.
    Many thanks.

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    Cleaned the MAF sensor today with 'Liqui Moly Air Flow Sensor Cleaner' hoping to eliminate problem but issue remained.
    I only disconnected the battery for a couple of minutes after cleaning it so disconnected again for 15 minutes and now it is running ok. ( for now)
    Does it usually need a 15 min disconnect to set things right with a MAF clean?

  12. #32

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    This is going to be your stepper motor (idle control valve) for sure
    Get a new one and install it it may still stall a few times until it learns it’s new idle

  13. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by hbkuk1 View Post
    This is going to be your stepper motor (idle control valve) for sure
    Get a new one and install it it may still stall a few times until it learns it’s new idle
    Thanks for the advice Rich. Good to hear as that was my next step. Bought one recently from Viamoto but wanted to try and isolate the fault rather than trying too many fixes at once. Cheers.

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    Gutted, problem returned! Cant believe it! Very close to giving up!
    Staggered, Stalled and broke down again this morning after a couple of weeks of perfect performance thinking that cleaning the MAF and replacing stepper motor fixed the problem. Problem always happens from cold and always seems to fix itself when the engine naturally gets to its hotter temp .65-95. There seems like a slight sudden change in tone as it improves.
    Was stuck on the road side for an hour and now its running perfect again, and probably will for a couple of weeks until I least expect it .
    I have now replaced old for new Fuel filter, Fuel pump, spark plugs, injector seals, boost and vacuum solenoids, stepper motor and had Dave's Boost leak check,. Even removed the Blitz BOV and replaced the lower recirculation valve to improve the idling. And every time thinking there was a slight improvement!
    I am still thinking it might be the MAF sensor as I only cleaned rather than replaced and while I was on the roadside disconnected the MAF and it did run better to limp me home.
    Please, please , PLEASE, does anyone have a spare MAF sensor for sale?
    Even if it was a a loan, long enough to find out if the problem returns.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated as I don't know where to turn and what else to replace!

  15. #35
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    I'm going to throw temperature sensor in as a potential fault.

    There's two - a two-pin one drives the dash, a single-pin one drives the ECU.

    If you can get some logging set up with EvoScan (HOWTO: Log from your ECU for less than £30), and monitor the coolant temp - I wonder if this is maybe incorrectly reporting sometimes, either due to a bad sensor, or dodgy wiring...

    A new sensor is available from Viamoto pretty cheap!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Confused View Post
    I'm going to throw temperature sensor in as a potential fault.

    There's two - a two-pin one drives the dash, a single-pin one drives the ECU.

    If you can get some logging set up with EvoScan (HOWTO: Log from your ECU for less than £30), and monitor the coolant temp - I wonder if this is maybe incorrectly reporting sometimes, either due to a bad sensor, or dodgy wiring...

    A new sensor is available from Viamoto pretty cheap!
    Hi Garry , many thanks for the suggestion. I will definitely try this out and contact Mike/Viamoto regarding the part. I didn't try this option out as I thought this would only effect the car when hot but being such a cheap part its silly not to at this stage, and then move on to trying to get an accurate diagnostic . Was even considering phoning around Mitsubishi dealerships to see if their mechanics still owned or had access to MUT II. Thanks again and fingers crossed.

  17. #37
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    Finding someone with a MUT II won't do any more than a paperclip and flashy dash, or EvoScan for data logging - other than cost you a substantial amount more money! No Mitsubishi dealer has anyone working there any more who worked there when these cars were new, that's if they even knew what they were in the first place, anyway!

  18. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by Confused View Post
    Finding someone with a MUT II won't do any more than a paperclip and flashy dash, or EvoScan for data logging - other than cost you a substantial amount more money! No Mitsubishi dealer has anyone working there any more who worked there when these cars were new, that's if they even knew what they were in the first place, anyway!
    Hi. Contacted the south Wales Swansea Mitsubishi branch earlier today and they asked me to contact them in the new year to see if they could get the MUT II up and running and that they also had a Mechanic there that had been working for them for 40 years! Probably meant they had someone working there that was over 40 years old )
    You just saved me £85 and managed to do the 'flashy dash'. Discovered all had lights had constant short flashes which I guess means no faults found. Probably need to try it again when the actual stalling fault returns. Will have a paperclip on the ready.
    Have also ordered the two temp sensors from Mike. ( something to keep me busy over xmas Cheers.

  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Confused View Post
    I'm going to throw temperature sensor in as a potential fault.

    There's two - a two-pin one drives the dash, a single-pin one drives the ECU.

    If you can get some logging set up with EvoScan (HOWTO: Log from your ECU for less than £30), and monitor the coolant temp - I wonder if this is maybe incorrectly reporting sometimes, either due to a bad sensor, or dodgy wiring...

    A new sensor is available from Viamoto pretty cheap!
    garry isn't it the other way round the single pin sensor drives the dash and the 2 pin sensor drives the ecu input.

    it doesn't really matter about the the dash sensor, you could disconnect that one and it would only effect the the gauge on the dash, but the ecu temp sensor failing can mess up the fueling, depending on if it fails short or open.
    i can remember off hand which way round it will be but one method of fail will signal the ecu that coolant temp is permanently hot or it will signal the ecu that the coolant is permanently cold.

    fail showing hot will cause issues as the car warns up as it will cause lean fueling i think.
    fail showing cold will cause issue once the actual coolant temp is hot as it will continually over fuel the car as the ecu thinks the engine is not warm and need the extra fuel that is initially fed to the engine to make cold starts smoother.

    but as you have an intermitant failt it is probably the wiring going to temp sensor rather than the sensor itself.

    Bye for Now!

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    You might be right, Dave, in that it's the 2 pin rather than 1 pin.

    The one I linked is correct for the ECU.

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