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Thread: Stalling when in drive auto? Any ideas

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    Louis's Avatar

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    Stalling when in drive auto? Any ideas

    Hi folks.
    Iím out in car all is good. I park for 40 miniutes afyer a 20 minute drive.
    I start the car and all is good.
    It revs freely in P and in an.
    I put it into drive and start to drive off and it starts to stall.
    I wonít go over 2k revs and stutters and stalks when I try and drive.
    If I try and hold four steady AR 2k to progress it does kind of lunges, surges.
    Iím going to park up and grab a coffee and come back to it.
    Any ideas or experience of this appreciated, cheers Louis
    Updating Soon!! 1998 Legnum VR4, fully serviced every 4500 miles. Fully Amsoil'd. Falken 453's, EVO 8 FQ320 rear diff.

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    Louis's Avatar

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    When in drive it cuts out at about 1200rpm when I try to drive off, same in reverse. In neutral and park it revs as normal!.

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    heat soak issue? does it get better after a minute of idle or so?
    any warning lights or different sounds?
    is it the same in tiptronic and drive?
    check oil level in box also

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    Fuel pump failure. Similar to issue I had or filter blocked
    Ask a simple question, never receive an answer these days

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    this was the first issue I had with a failing autobox, but at the sametime I had issues with a wheel sensor, the abs was just applying the brakes to one wheel randomly, I ended up pulling the abs fuse, your issue maybe tcl related if its not a fuelling issue, you can get rid of the tcl by plugging up the two vacuum lines at go to the grey canister from the throttle body, and also pull the abs fuse, and see if it still does it, you could do with a battery disconnect, ive also had a similar issue with the clip coming offthe throttle body, not all of these things bring up warning lights, if you do have a failing fuel pump or blocked filter theres a easy way to find out, just pull a spark plug and look at the colour/state of it, its reallt obvious when a car is running lean, ive had all sorts of issues over the years and they have all had similar symptoms, sorry if ths isn't clear!

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    HI Guys, Thanks for the suggestions.

    It revs freely with no problems in park.
    It revs freely with no problems in Neutral.
    I put it in Drive, or Reverse and as I push the accelerator pedal it gets to 1000rpm and sort of cuts, the rev counter needle drops down and it starts to stall.
    If I feather the pedal I can keep it at 1000 rpm and move, but it cuts as soon as I try and drive normally.

    It does not get better with idling.
    If I switch off and leave it 15 minutes and try again, all is normal.
    No warning lights until the revs drop and it starts to stall.
    When it doesn't happen everything is fine, no issues!.

    Could be a heat issue?, but it doesn't happen all the time.
    happened a couple of weeks ago, then fine for 5 days, then it happened last week and was fine and it happened again today, and is now fine.
    I have a walbro 225 lph pump, in there for a few years but never any issues.


    Please see video attached below (youtube link) (too big to load here).

    https://youtu.be/gc_DZ3AeiR8


    cheers Louis

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    just watched the vid, it looks like youre gonna have to remove tcl from the equation, there are two vac lines headed from the throttle body to the tcl canister, pull them off and put a bolt in each hole and then see what it does, are there any random quiet grinding noises when youre pulling up to a stop ?

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    Im sure i read a post recently about the loom above gearbox/transfer box getting pinched by movement due to worn out mounts, causing all kinds of bad behaviour. worth a look?
    will it rev up more than shown in video? 5-6K?
    how does it respond to hard steering inputs, AC on full, high electrical load and being revved?

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    Quote Originally Posted by glyn View Post
    just watched the vid, it looks like youre gonna have to remove tcl from the equation, there are two vac lines headed from the throttle body to the tcl canister, pull them off and put a bolt in each hole and then see what it does, are there any random quiet grinding noises when youre pulling up to a stop ?
    I will try bypassing the tcl to see, but I may need to wait until it happens again as it is fine most of the time!.
    No Grinding noises, all else working fine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Amonlym View Post
    Im sure i read a post recently about the loom above gearbox/transfer box getting pinched by movement due to worn out mounts, causing all kinds of bad behaviour. worth a look?
    will it rev up more than shown in video? 5-6K?
    how does it respond to hard steering inputs, AC on full, high electrical load and being revved?

    I will check for pinched loom.

    Engine mounts are polybush, so they are solid.
    It will rev as normal right up
    Hard steering no problem.
    AC on full no issues.
    electric load etc all good.
    I have a 680A 75AH battery and a 120amp alternator.

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    Quote Originally Posted by peter thomson View Post
    Fuel pump failure. Similar to issue I had or filter blocked
    I'd look at this one.
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    Re fuel pump:
    It revs fine. In neutral, ticks over normal in neutral.
    It’s only when I put it in drive or reverse the the revs drop, idle becomes uneven and it stalls when I try to pull away.
    Put it back in park or neutral it ticks over fine and will rev freely to red line, no issues.
    Would putting it in drive or reverse put the fuel pump under more strain and cause a fault???.
    Thanks for input.

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    Hi Louis,

    Yeh, drive / reverse apply a fair amount more load to the engine. This is what i was trying to check with the steering and ac and electrical loads - these would also increase engine load. And all of these should adjust the idle to compensate for that load - but in different ways which might have helped identify a different issue too.

    The alternator load is entirely ECU controlled, it measures the voltage and changes the excitation in response. I believe the normal idle control loop of the ECU is used here to adjust the idle back to normal rpms.
    The PS has a pressure operated vacuum switch which then bumps up the engine speed to high loads, if it doesn't work properly the car will tend to stumble when the steering is moved at idle
    The AC has an ecu controlled ISC adjustment that is stepped in based on the AC loading.

    Maybe you have an air metering issue? Have you tried unplugging the MAF to force the car to the tables, see if that helps? Listening for the sound of the fuel pump is also worth doing as mentioned by the others, pull up the rear bench. you should hear it fairly clearly thru the access panel. Get a volunteer to cycle key a few times and you should hear it cycle on/off.

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    Hi Jake,
    Yes, I know where you are going with the electrics, but all electrics are in good shape, no dimming lights or voltage drop when accessories are switched on etc.

    I am going to check all my small vacuum lines as I am guessing there may be something there!.

    I will try unplugging mac, it won't run without it, but will let it stumble and then disconnect battery and try it again.

    cheers

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    The fuel pump has to flow a LOT more when under load. As such, based on some tables in the ECU (throttle position, load?) the fuel pump relay shoves 12v in rather than the 7v used at idle. Maybe the fuel pump is ropey, maybe the relay is ropey? Good luck finding it - intermittent faults are fecking annoying!

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    Hi,
    still waiting for it to do it again (I agree about intermittent faults being a PITA)
    I have the relay jumped so the pump gets full voltage all the time.

    I will have to wait until it does it again so I can check a few things

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    Stock fuel pump Louis, or after market?
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    It sounds like something heat soaked in the engine bay, do you have a spare IFS (Ignition Fail Sensor) to swap out, the one on the top of the front rocker cover. it will take 5 mins to swap out worth a try.
    i have a spare i can send you to try but i am not sure the post office wil stillbe running a few days time so it might not be possible to send.

    Bye for Now!

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    Had an issue like this in the pass, it was the air flow sensor at fault, also do a boost leak test.

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    you can check the for a MAF issue by just unplugging the MAF and going for a drive the ECU will just use some basic fueling tables to keep things safe. but if it drive you will know you have a MAF issue.

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