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Thread: engine rebuild after head gasket failure.

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    engine rebuild after head gasket failure.

    Time to bite the bullet and replace the head gaskets after too much boost lifted the heads and caused the head bolts to stretch and make the head gaskets to fail.
    the failure is combustion gases in the cooling system.
    the head gasket failure was confirmed by doing a sniff test on the bubbles in the expansion tank and seeing the blue fluid turn green/yellow , and fitting a pressure gauge to the cooling system which showed a spike increase in coolant pressure every time large boost pressure was generated by the turbos.

    please bear in mind that the engine ran perfectly, no noise, no vibration, it sounded sweet and pulled well, apart from the head gasket issue.

    Well that is the reason for the engine rebuild requirement. hope fully it will just be the head gaskets that need to be replaced.

    well the engine was removed from the car sound like an easy job but but i took me about a full day to remove it on the road side outside my house. not best place to do it be it is not something i have not done before.

    tools special tools required for the engine removal:-
    good impact gun (dewalt DCF899)
    slide hammer.

    the process is:-
    Drain all the fluids form the engine , gearbox, transfer case, cooling system.

    remove large turbo boost pipe work.
    remove the turbo small boost/vacuum pipe work.
    Remove the plenum chamber.
    remove the wiring to the engine and gear box. trickiest connection is the alternator output wire.
    remover the coolant pipe work to the engine.
    Remove the radiator and fan shroud.
    remove the a/c pump from the engine and suspend it from the chassis with some bungee cords.
    remove the Pumper steering pump from the engine and suspend it with bungee cords.
    unbolt the power steering pump high pressure pipe from the engine. the hard pipe has the vacuum assist sensor in it, the pipe is running on the pulley end of the engine and back down past the alternator.
    remove the lower bolt from suspension strut to straight suspension arm both sides.
    remove the inner bolt from the straight suspension arm both sides.
    Remove the front drive shaft from the gearbox both sides.
    remove the driveshaft hub nut, and remove the drive shaft each side.
    Remove the output shaft from the gear box,on the gearbox side. use a slide hammer to pop it out. you must remove the output shaft before the transfer case is unbolted otherwise the output shaft will lock/bind up in place . you can use other methods to remove the output shaft but like a slide hammer to do this.
    Remove cross member under the engine/gearbox that has the front gearbox mount attached.
    Remove the transfer case, propshaft will come out of the transfer case when it is lowered away from the gearbox. cover propshaft yoke end with a plasitic bag and cable tie it to stop it getting dirty.
    remove the gear selection cables and label them up. remove the press in Clips that hold the cables into the mounts on the gear box.
    remove the clutch slave cylinder, either keep it all sealed up and remove it and tuck it out of the way. or disconnect one of the hard fluid pipes to the clutch slave cylinder drain the clutch fluid and remove the slave cylinder. remove the press in C clip that hold the fluid lne to the gear box mount.

    Disconnect the clutch release bearing:-
    Gain entry to the clutch release bearing from under the car not through the clutch fork hole. there is circular rubber grommet on the bottom of the bell housing. remove it and with a torch you can see what you need to do.
    Get your flat blade screwdriver between the clutch release bearing and the metal disk that is pressed up against it with a wave spring.
    Grab the clutch fork and pull it away from the engine and hold it there.
    Twist the screw driver and the release bearing should be released. once you have twisted the screw driver release the clutch fork and it should spring away for the pressure/sping plate of the clutch.
    You know if you have been successful as the clutch fork will be fully over to the engine side of the hole in the bell housing.

    DO NOT push the clutch fork away from the engine to see what happens as this will engage the clutch release bearing back into the pressure/sping plate of the clutch and you will have to do it all over again.

    Remove starter motor.
    support the engine with lift jack at the gearbox end.
    Remove gearbox. support gearbox with lift/jack/strap, remove the bolts for rear and side gearbox mounts, undo the side gearbox mount to gearbox bolts x4, remove the gear box to engine fixing bolts. prise the gearbox off the engine with a couple of pry bars, lower and remove from under the car.

    connect engine to engine hoist, undo the 1 remaining engine mount bolt. lift engine clear of the engine bay.
    remove the bell housing to engine thin mounting plate.
    loosen to finger tight the bolts holding the cover for the crank main seal.
    mount engine onto stand plate. connect stand plate to engine stand, lower engine and stand to the floor.

    engine has been successfully removed from the car.
    now the engine can be stripped bagged and tagged in the effort to get to the head gaskets.

    But here is the point you have to make a decision, while the engine is out do you check the crank and conrod bearings.
    the simple answer is always yes, YES, YES.

    flip the engine over on the stand so the sump is up.
    Remove the lower sump. remove all bolts prise off sump
    remove the oil pickup tube.
    remove the windige tray.
    remove the upper sump. romove all the bolts remember the two long bolts under the little metal viewing cover plate. screw two of the bolts back into the threaded holes next to the dowel pins this will proze off the upper sump from the block.
    now you have access to the crank bearing cradle and the con rod bearings.
    remove 16 bolts on the crank bearing cradle make note of the 4x smaller headed bolts at the pulley end or the cradle. prize the cradle off gently with a pry bar until it pops. then flip the cradle over and check the bearings llok like new. if they look like new then you are in luck and the cradle can be refitted and torqued back up.
    check each accessible pair of conrods bearings in turn. remove the connecting rods end caps and check the bearings look like new. if so refit and rotate the crank to get to the next pair of of conrod end caps, remove and check these, rotate the crank again and check the last two end caps. if all bearing look like new then all is good. you can torque up all the end caps to the correct spec.


    However it never goes like that, all of the crank bearings are warn well past the acceptable limit and the conrod bearings i starting to show signs of ware.
    So this engine needs a full rebuild, but only back to factory specs, i am not going to start replacing original parts for after market parts. everything will be checked to ensure it is still within factory limits and then it will be put back together with new bearings and gaskets, but everything will be clean and working.
    so it should end up a factory fresh engine.

    i will add picture to the engine engine prep and rebuild part of this thread. i was just pushed for time when it came to the engine out of the car section and i was filthy, due to having to do this on the road out side my house.
    Last edited by Davezj; 15-04-2020 at 12:53 PM.

    Bye for Now!

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    Ok so here are some before pics of the cylinder heads, before i started cleaning them.

    front head pre clean






    rear head pre clean







    Front head first clean in dishwasher






    Rear Head after first clean in dishwasher





    Front head after a quick brush with white spirit and a second run through the dishwasher





    Rear head after a quick brush with white spirit and a second run through the dishwasher









    the dishwasher does a good job and make my work much easier.
    I still need to measure the flatness of of the head surface to see what i have to play with, i am not expecting any issues but you never know.
    Last edited by Davezj; 29-04-2020 at 10:18 PM.

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    Been cleaning pistons this evening, sorry no pre clean pic but will do post clean pics.

    so far i have run the pistons through the dishwasher. this did a good job.

    i removed the piston rings and bagged them up. then turned my attention to the oiling holes behind the oil scraper rings on the third tear of rings all bar two holes go strain through the piston skirt to the under side of the piston crown all these holes were semi blocked and need to be cleaned out with a very small version of a bottle brush. the other two holes go into the wrist pin joining the piston to the top of the conrod. these two holes were completely blocked and had to be picked clean with a cleaning wire and lots of wd40 flushing. i have cleaned the back of the oil scraper groove which in places was crusty with powdered burnt oil and i still have to clean the back of the top two ring grooves. this will be done with a broken piston ring as it is the perfect tool to do it.

    hopefully i am not going to have to replace the piston rings as these are about £140 for full set for the 6 pistons.
    Once the pistons are clean i will perform the following measurements.

    ring end gaps on all the rings when they are fitted into the cylinder bore.

    measure the ring groove side gaps for the top two rings.

    weigh the piston ring sets for each piston
    weigh the pistons and conrods
    weigh the bearings that are going to fitted to each conrod big end.

    match the weights of the rods, pistons, rings and bearings to the best possible match.
    find the lightest set and then make the other sets match this weight to 0.1g buy removing some material off the conrod cap next to the cap bolt holes. this should give the rotating assembly the best possible chance of balancing correctly.

    but i can't do this until the conrod bearings get delivered and they are not duein until about 7th May. however with the current global pandemic i am guessing these will be delayed.

    pics of the pistons and the measuring process will follow.
    Last edited by Davezj; 29-04-2020 at 11:02 PM.

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    here is an update i have got the bearings

    i painted the block bright silver with VHT block paint so i can see any leaks when it is all back together.

    i have removed collets, retainers and valve springs then the valves came out and finally valve stem seals. pics below.

    IMG_20200611_175313.jpgIMG_20200611_175204.jpgIMG_20200611_175239.jpgIMG_20200611_175308.jpg

    then the valves and seats checked on the front.

    there is a bit of carbon build up on the exhaust valve but the seal faces are quite clean. the inlet valves and seats and seal faces are super clean.

    IMG_20200611_174410.jpgIMG_20200611_174258.jpgIMG_20200611_174402.jpgIMG_20200611_174249.jpgIMG_20200611_174406.jpgIMG_20200611_174253.jpg

    IMG_20200611_173501.jpgIMG_20200611_173415.jpgIMG_20200611_173508.jpgIMG_20200611_173423.jpgIMG_20200611_173517.jpgIMG_20200611_173454.jpgIMG_20200611_173409.jpgIMG_20200611_173531.jpg

    the rear head valves and seats are very much the same condition

    IMG_20200611_175845.jpgIMG_20200611_175745.jpgIMG_20200611_175517.jpgIMG_20200611_175849.jpgIMG_20200611_175750.jpgIMG_20200611_175523.jpgIMG_20200611_175756.jpgIMG_20200611_175527.jpg

    IMG_20200611_175912.jpgIMG_20200611_175639.jpgIMG_20200611_175426.jpgIMG_20200611_175918.jpgIMG_20200611_175643.jpgIMG_20200611_175430.jpgIMG_20200611_175923.jpgIMG_20200611_175648.jpgIMG_20200611_175436.jpgIMG_20200611_175351.jpgIMG_20200611_175949.jpgIMG_20200611_175939.jpgIMG_20200611_175945.jpg

    so everything is going to get cleaned again and we will see what carbon remains on and around the valve seats on the exhaust ports. if it does not all come off then it will be attacked with soe dremal wire wheels and sanding rolls. avoiding the valve seats themselves. i will probably remove those divit marks/casting marks in the chanber right next to the valves, as this will probably be a sharp edge source of detonation.

    then the valves will get wire wheeled and made ready for the lapping of the seat. to be fair the seats look really good and will only need a light tickle with the lapping past and then evrything will get cleaned again. ready for head assembly.


    after pictures to come.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Davezj; 12-06-2020 at 09:13 PM.

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    Last edited by Davezj; 12-06-2020 at 09:17 PM.

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    Reserved 5

    i have reserved the next 5 reply to give me room to fill them with only the engine rebuild information and no comments.
    please feel free to comment after reserved 5 post. i just want to keep all the engine rebilud info at the start of the thread. hope you don't mind
    Last edited by Davezj; 14-04-2020 at 08:50 PM.

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    Well done Dave good luck with the build

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    adam do you mean bearings or upgrading parts, if it is parts then no it is going back together as a stock factory spec build.

    if the bearing had no sign of ware then i would have just put it back together with the bearings it had in the engine.

    In theory the bearing should never ware out, as the crank and conrods float on a film of oil and the metal parts should never come in contact with each other. i suppose there might be some oil friction ware on the bearings but that is like trying to sand the surface of a piece of metal with nothing but oil on the end of your finger it is not going to happen if there is always oil between your finger and the metal.

    upgrade parts means lots of machining, honing, grinding, of surfaces in the the engine and this is not something i can do at home.

    mind you a full set of bearing not including piston rings is going to set you back about £16 ish per bearing, and you need 4 for the crank plus the thrust bearing and 6 for the conrods that is getting on for £200.
    plus all the other gaskets you need to put the engine back together plus timing belt and all the bits that goes with that so a standard parts only rebuild will cost best part of £500-£600 if not more when include all the fluids.


    one other thing that has slowed me down is my garden dishwasher got a bit of water into it over the winter and one of the pcb has been damaged inside the door. soi have had to order an new one of those. hopefully it will be back up and running be next week. i will be doing some before and after cleaning pics, measurement pics, asembly pics,etc ,etc.

    i have done a a couple of threads on the last engine i rebuilt but not a full build thread. so hopefully this will go as well as the last engine, as that engine has now done about 20K miles of torture and abuse and it is still running ok. i have thrashed the pants off that engine with high boost and had no issue with head lift.
    Last edited by Davezj; 15-04-2020 at 01:01 PM.

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    ok so i have repaired my garden dishwasher and it it is all backup and running, parts are going through it as i type.

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    Looking forward to seeing before and after pictures.

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    Davezj's Avatar

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    i will be able to do block and heads before and after, as it is a bit tricky taking picture on a phone while covered in oil and crap but i saved the major bits block and heads for last to be able to show the results.
    i will take the cams out of the heads and just leave the vales in for now.
    i will vacuum test the heads before i clean them. i will need the valve in place to do the vacuum test.
    i will take the valves out later to give the seats a little lapping just to revile the contact patch.

    i might get the chance to do a video of the vacuum testing process.
    this checks for leaking inlet valves, leaking exhaust valves, cracking in the head.
    basically use a vacuum pump to pull a vacuum against the valves then leave it to sit for a while if the vacuum stay the same the valve seat are good if it leaks i will have to do some work on them. Then pull a vacuum through the spark plug hole for the chamber test.

    i had to build the vacuum tester myself from a bit of research on the web but it worked on my last engine build so it should work on this one.
    Last edited by Davezj; 23-04-2020 at 12:36 PM.

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    How you seal head from engine side? for vacuum to build up and be sure is not leaking there. Im in 2 minds regarding heads, send them to have all jobs (valve lap, change of valve seals, skim, test) done by spec or try to diy, send them will be costly diy will take looong time, not sure yet which way to go.

  14. #14
    Davezj's Avatar

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    i use a small closed cell foam material on a flat board, a chopping board to be precise. you use wd40 to lube the foam. when you pull the vacuum, it will seal on the foam sheet. i will have to make small version of this board to cover the inlet and exhaust port but you fit the vacuum tube through the small plate with the foam on and it all seals with the WD40 to lube it.

    quite simple but effective.
    you pull the vacuum then close the isolation valve and as long as the vacuum it maintained. then it is a good seal and valves are good, same goes for the combustion chamber.
    Last edited by Davezj; 28-04-2020 at 10:45 PM.

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    Soo much goodness to see and even more to read, when you editing post it not show up when I press 'new post' button, which is only way I look through this forum, anyway see your updates and your dishwasher seems to do great job, pls tell me model and I may get one to stick in my garage too as looks like it can be pick second hand locally from £20 just by the look on the pictures I cant figure out to which one can take v6 block in it :-) so I think if I know what model you have I be more aware of what size it needs to be.

    Great progress so far, keep them updated coming.

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    Davezj's Avatar

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    Any full size dishwasher should be able to take a vr4 block. You might have to remove the upper tray if you put it on its side. And you will have to reinforce the lower wire rack as it is likely to bow under the weight. But I found a couple of old wire shelves from an oven did the trick for me. If the lower tray bows it can touch the rotating spray bar an stop it spinning. Which kills the cleaning effort.
    Mine is a Hotpoint dwf50.

  17. #17
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    updated

    i can't edit the original 4 or 5 posts any more the time limit has expired on them.
    Last edited by Davezj; 14-06-2020 at 11:18 AM.

  18. #18
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    the thing that is odd about the pictures of the backs valves is the contact patch with the valve seat. the inlet valves larger ones have a silver grey line/band around them which shows where the valve touches the seat. but the exhaust valves have a dark grey much wider band around them which shows the valve to seat contact patch. after lapping the exhaust valve band is silver grey again. pictures to follow.

    The valves and seats have now been lapped and and here are the results.

    Exhaust rear head

    IMG_20200614_121931.jpgIMG_20200614_121842.jpgIMG_20200614_121944.jpgIMG_20200614_121828.jpgIMG_20200614_121935.jpgIMG_20200614_121820.jpg

    Inlet rear head

    IMG_20200614_122133.jpgIMG_20200614_122026.jpgIMG_20200614_122019.jpgIMG_20200614_122111.jpgIMG_20200614_122125.jpgIMG_20200614_122034.jpg


    Exhaust front head

    IMG_20200614_122258.jpgIMG_20200614_122220.jpgIMG_20200614_122305.jpgIMG_20200614_122225.jpgIMG_20200614_122253.jpgIMG_20200614_122212.jpg

    Inlet front headed

    IMG_20200614_122501.jpgIMG_20200614_122338.jpgIMG_20200614_122507.jpgIMG_20200614_122345.jpgIMG_20200614_122424.jpgIMG_20200614_122332.jpg
    Last edited by Davezj; 14-06-2020 at 10:26 PM.

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    Nice to see some progress, its all still to do on mine, have a question, what tool/method you find out works out best to remove/refit valves and again tool/method to lap valves, seen done by hand, done by drill from valve seat side and by drill from other side, asking whats your path, I'm looking to attack this job over the weekend as will have parts to close engine by then.

  20. #20
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    the valve can be removed in a number of ways.

    you can buy a kock the keepers out tool or just use a socket and extension bar and hit with a hammer to pop the keepers out.
    a traditional valve spring compressor that presses on the valve from both side at the same time to release the keepers, but awkward to use.
    A leaver arm valve spring compressor that attaches to head and you pull or push an arm down to compress the spring to release the keepers.

    i have used all 3. my preference is the socket and extension to remove the keepers and the leaver arm compressor to put them back in.

    for the lapping, i use drill from valve side so you do not put any side strain on the valves. you use the same suction cup from a manual valve lapping tool so the grip on the valve is very minimal, but slide the suction cup on to a 1/2inch square drive to 6mm hex adaptor for a drill. only need a few seconds on a slow speed and the valves are done. you do not apply any pressure on the valve seat just let it rotate but this depends on how bad the valves and seats are in the first place.

    i will retest the my heads after i reassemble them to check the valves have a good seal on the seats with my Head vacuum test rig. this is were having the test equipment can save you a lot of time and effort. imagine putting the engine back together only to find one of you valves is not sealing correctly when you do a compression test on the engine stand. At least i will be able to test this with just the head assembled.

    you can bob round a test your heads if you want once you have assembled them.
    if you need anything to tool wise lapping pastes that sort of thing just give me a shout.

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  3. Head gasket gone ?
    By MYKEY in forum General / Questions
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 28-01-2011, 02:54 PM

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