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Thread: Battery reconnection

  1. #1

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    Battery reconnection

    Does both the engine and auto box relearn every time or is it just the gearbox

    Had a wee idle drop at a stop when in drive
    Cut out a couple of time’s


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    Just the box!
    October 2023 fleet status: 100% operational


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    Probably have intermittent fault then , it’s been of the road since 2015 , just got it back on the road couple of days ago , forgot how great these cars are to drive

    Any ideas what it could be ?
    Just think you guys might know the common probs

    Thanks


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    elnevio's Avatar

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    Idle stepper motor on the throttle body is a good start. Take that out and give it a good clean and make sure it's moving.

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    Cleaned both , fingers crossed I’ve had no problems so far ,

    Thanks for the info


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    Idle can be effected when the battery is disconnected, but it should only be a minutes or so after the engine is started, before it is back to normal. this is assuming the idle stepper motor is working correctly, free moving and not clogged up with old oil vapour residue and gunk.
    but nev is right it the idle should be rock solid after a battery disconnect pretty much as soon as the engine is started.

    if you want to setup the idle correctly you can do the following.
    when battery is connected.
    you can hear the idle stepper motor working, it will make a clicking noise. The motor moves the mechanism in and out inside the valve to find the required idle point set in the ecu.

    the idle is set by the BIST screw on the throttle body and the idle control valve.

    using evoscan to log the data from the idle control stepper motor
    you set the BIST screw so the data result from the idle control stepper motor says it is in the middle of its available travel. i can't remember what the value is but it is on these website pages somewhere, u think garry confused did a really good write up of this.
    this gives the idle control stepper motor the best possible opportunity to get the idle to the value set in the ecu. it also allows the idle to be trimmed based on air temp, coolant temp, or excessive load form the engine from the alternator or A/C compressor.

    so a fully functioning idle control valve is important to having a constant smooth idle in all condition.

    Bye for Now!

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    Thanks Dave

    I need to get the evoscan software and the cable

    I think it’s this
    EvoScan Openport 1.3U Universal USB Datalogging and ECU Reflash Tuning Cable $137

    I’ve been of the road for about 4 years ,so I need to invest in this software to solve problems as I have Ayc to fix too


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    Confused's Avatar

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    If it worked fine before and suddenly doesn't now, then definitely **DO NOT** mess with the idle screw until you're sure you need to! (Hint: you almost definitely don't need to, ever)

    It's probably a sticky/broken ISC stepper motor, or an air leak.


    That said, I do remember something about running for a few minutes after reconnecting battery either with, or without, electrical load on the engine (A/C, heater fans, demister, radio etc) - just can't remember now whether it should be "with" or "without" the load, as that obviously makes a bit of a difference!


    However, if you REALLY do think you need to adjust the screw, after eliminating all other possibilities as not being the cause, then as Davezj said, I did do some notes, they are in this thread.

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    Since cleaning throttle body and stepper motor I’ve had no issues so far
    Hopefully at the end of the month I can order the evoscan and take measurements etc

    I take ordering straight from the website is safe and reliable ?


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  10. #10
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    if you are going to order evo scan get the open port 2.0 cable you will be able reflash the ecu with it if you have a reflashable ecu in the car.
    i don't think you can do the reflash with the open port 1.3 cable.

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    Battery reconnection

    When I look on the website it’s saying 1.3u does ECU flash with this cable , but it’s bloody expensive
    Not sure what to do , I should check my ECU can be flashed too ,

    I’m actually thinking my fuel pump might be the root cause of the actual problem now , I floored it the other day to get out the slip road sitting about 40mph and got pure start stop 121212 then lifted acceleration off ,
    Increased it slowly and it drove normal
    But if I give it gas it shuts down

    But not all the time


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    Last edited by Jazzcam; 23-05-2020 at 05:51 PM.

  12. #12
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    you need evoscan and a cheap diagnostic cable just for monitoring to sort you problem out.
    evoscan $25
    monitor only cable £5

    job done.

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    Do you mean like one from eBay , just so the software will communicate


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    Pull out the plugs and check them. You will need to do the rear bank as well, which means taking off the intake plenum.
    Spark faults from worn plugs will give you hesitation which can feel a bit like fuel cut, but not as harsh.

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    i think this is the correct type of cable for just monitoring with evoscan.
    stupidly cheap setup you just need a laptop to run it from.

    have fun logging you issue.


    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-COM-4....c100005.m1851

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenneth View Post
    Pull out the plugs and check them. You will need to do the rear bank as well, which means taking off the intake plenum.
    Spark faults from worn plugs will give you hesitation which can feel a bit like fuel cut, but not as harsh.
    and yes as kennth say make sure you have good spark plugs in the front and rear banks.

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    Battery reconnection

    I replace all plugs and changed one of the coil pack just before I put it back on the road ,
    I put those iridium ones in it


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    Last edited by Jazzcam; 28-05-2020 at 10:06 PM.

  18. #18
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    What was the spark gap on the plugs? The 6a13 seems to be quite sensitive to oversized gap. IIRC it should be somewhere around 0.8mm or something.

    If its more than that, re-gap them and try again.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kenneth View Post
    What was the spark gap on the plugs? The 6a13 seems to be quite sensitive to oversized gap. IIRC it should be somewhere around 0.8mm or something.

    If its more than that, re-gap them and try again.
    Ooh yes, good shout. Stock gap on the 6A13TT VR-4 is 0.8mm. On the N/A 6A13 V6, it is 1.1mm.

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    I actually just fitted fitted them without checking the gap , I know it’s not clever !

    It’s still idling fine at the moment,


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